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Anhydrous Vitamin C recipe?
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DarkMoon
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Sat Sep 26, 2009 6:26 am      Reply with quote
Lacey,
I can understand the nausea caused by studies, there are always some contradicting others. The "experts" are always coming up with different opinions.
Example:
In my lifetime eggs are good, eggs are bad, eggs are good, no eggs are bad, now eggs high in omega are good.
This is just one example of studies constantly changing!

May not be scientific but there is something to be said for EMPIRICAL knowledge.

IMHO
DM

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Barefootgirl
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Thu Oct 01, 2009 11:32 am      Reply with quote
I just posted a comment on the product penetration thread dealing with silicones/oils and their use in topical formulations.

The comment comes from a researcher/product developer.

BF
DarkMoon
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Thu Oct 01, 2009 2:21 pm      Reply with quote
Here is my feeling as far as studies go and I will post this in product penatration thread as well:

We are discussing skin care here!
I had four beautiful babies in 81,84,85,89 and it was crucial according to all experts and scientific studies (please remember we are talking LIFE AND DEATH HERE) babies during this time and before and after HAD TO LAY ON THEIR STOMACHS! otherwise they might spit up and choke to death on their own vomit!
Now experts and scientific studies insist babies must never lay on their stomachs always on their backs as they may suffocate themselves by butting their face into the bedding their by dying!
Life and death studies all recommended by all pediatricians at each time! All backed by scientific research and studies.
My four kids and all of my friends kids survived us doing what NOW is reported even on the news as terribly dangerous for infants.

What to believe ??????
Do I question studies no matter who they are by, you bet I do!
Just my peabrained opinion
DM

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Barefootgirl
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Fri Oct 02, 2009 5:25 am      Reply with quote
I won't be buying the Deming C serum again.

(1) It doesn't properly dissolve, no matter what I try to make that happen
(2) It is so thin and watery, that there is a lot of waste when trying to move it from the bottle to the skin..(they should improve the design, using a dropper or something, etc.)
(3) The company refused to answer a couple basic questions.

BF
DarkMoon
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Fri Oct 02, 2009 6:09 am      Reply with quote
BF,
Even with all the conflicting info I have read that even if they won't admit it cosmetic companies that are selling C serums and creams are having major issues with stability. It has been written that by the time they hit the shelves they are already ineffective or oxidized, so just as well save some $$$ and make your own.

DM
just hedging my bets the studies could be correct!!! Very Happy plus some I have purchased turned brown within 1-2 days of opening!

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summer2004
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Fri Oct 02, 2009 10:35 am      Reply with quote
Barefootgirl wrote:
I won't be buying the Deming C serum again.BF


Oh...before making my DIY C serum, I really wanted to buy Deming.
DarkMoon
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Fri Oct 02, 2009 9:24 pm      Reply with quote
Summer,
At least you found out before wasting your money! Don't you just love this place!
Very Happy
DM

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Y34963
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Sat Oct 03, 2009 8:38 am      Reply with quote
As long as the vitamin C serum stays clear it is still good right? The only way we can tell if it has turned is by the colour - if it turns yellow/gold?

I just want to make sure. I found a bottle of C serum that I forgot about so I have had it awhile and it is still clear.
DarkMoon
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Sat Oct 03, 2009 8:47 am      Reply with quote
Y34963,


That is my understanding as well as personal experience, the serum will turn yellow (and actually eventually brown) if it has oxidized.
Keeping it out of the light especially sunlight and also cool helps prevent oxidation.

HTH
DM
PS Some I have purchased in the past also just didn't smell right after they oxidized, maybe it was just the brands I had, can't swear they will all smell "off"

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Y34963
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Sat Oct 03, 2009 8:51 am      Reply with quote
Thanks DM. I must have had this for months because I don't even remember buying it but it has been in my drawer of many products too many product as it seems - at the bottom so it has been dark.
DarkMoon
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Sat Oct 03, 2009 9:13 am      Reply with quote
Y34963,
I also meant to add if yours is the oil soluble form of C it is much more stable and is no where near as prone to oxidation.

Very Happy
DM

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Skippie
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Wed Nov 11, 2009 8:43 am      Reply with quote
Quote:
Skippie - I've read the opposite - that irritation increases when actives do not penetrate (or are used too frequently for too long, too high of a concentration, too low of a pH, etc) ...but again, I am not skin scientist, I only go by what I've read from others who are skin scientists.

In other words, for me personally, I would not consider irritation a sign of penetration.


Barefootgirl,

I'm coming around to your way of thinking on this. The irritation continued as long as I used the anhydrous vitamin c. However, I made an oil/water vitamin c serum which actually has more vitamin c (three kinds) than the anhydrous version I made and it didn't sting at all. That was using both of them on my neck. My face didn't sting at all with either, but my neck has always been more sensitive to products.
fat_swan
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Thu Nov 12, 2009 1:55 pm      Reply with quote
Not BFgirl here, but it sounds like you should try to use a different serum on each side of your face for a couple weeks to see what results you get. I for one, would be very interested to see the kind of progress from this "experiment". Please keep us posted! Would you mind sharing the recipe you used for the water/oil serum with 3 types of C please? I'm having trouble with oxidation in my serums..

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Skippie
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Sat Nov 14, 2009 5:59 am      Reply with quote
fat_swan,

This is my recipe:

3 tsp cucumber distillate
2 tsp cranberry seed oil
1 tsp LAA
¼ tsp MAP
1/8 tsp Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
2 vitamin e capsules
1 tsp Polysorbate 20
1/8 tsp optiphen

It did turn out a little sticky. I haven't tried to trace down the ingredient that did it, but I suspect it's the cucumber distillate.
DarkMoon
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Tue Nov 17, 2009 11:50 am      Reply with quote
Skippie,

Your recipe looks GREAT! Just a thought I wonder if just a tad more oil would counteract the stickiness? You would need to check ph of course, just throwing an idea out there, I love cucumber for the skin! It would be a shame to have to take it out!
I really do like the look of your recipe!
Keep us posted please.

TIA
DM Very Happy

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Kassy_A
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Tue Nov 17, 2009 12:19 pm      Reply with quote
Skippie wrote:
fat_swan,

This is my recipe:

3 tsp cucumber distillate
2 tsp cranberry seed oil
1 tsp LAA
¼ tsp MAP
1/8 tsp Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
2 vitamin e capsules
1 tsp Polysorbate 20
1/8 tsp optiphen

It did turn out a little sticky. I haven't tried to trace down the ingredient that did it, but I suspect it's the cucumber distillate.


It could be the gelatin or glycerin that's usually in vitamin E supplement caps, that's causing the stickiness..

Just curious to why you chose to put the *water* soluble forms of vitamin C in an oil based serum though... Confused

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♥I'm flattered by all the lovely PM's, but I don't get here much these days. Please don't be afraid to post your quearies to other DIY members who will be glad to help you (or sell you their wares..lol) Still happy with LED, dermarolling and a DIY antioxidant regime. Peace & Hugs to all.♥
pal
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Tue Nov 17, 2009 1:33 pm      Reply with quote
Kassy Im interested to know if you have made an oil based vitamin c and if so could you please post the receipe. Im sorry if I have missed it.
Thanks Smile
DarkMoon
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Sat Nov 21, 2009 9:30 am      Reply with quote
Information from Bulk actives as pertaining to mixing oil and water soluble vitamin C more can be found on the following link.

http://www.bulkactives.com/ascorbyltetraisopalmitate.htm

About Vitamin C derivatives
 
"There is some evidence that combining water soluble and oil-soluble forms of vitamin C may provide synergistic skin benefits through broader antioxidant protection and better penetration." Dr. G. Todorov, Anhydrous Vitamin C Combo, smartskincare.com
 
 
"Most vitamin C derivatives on the market, including ascorbyl palmitate and magnesuim ascorbyl phosphate, consist of the ascorbic acid fragment (ascorbyl) and a fragment of another acid (e.g. palmitate or phosphate). Recent research indicates that new vitamin C derivatives, such as Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, consisting of multiple chemical fragments bound to a single ascorbic acid fragment may work even better. These new derivatives are more stable compared to both vitamin C and older derivatives. Furthermore, some of these newcomers (particularly the so-called tetrasubstituted lipophilic ascorbates) also appear to be more powerful boosters of collagen synthesis."  Dr. G. Todorov, Vitamin C Derivatives, smartskincare.com

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Kassy_A
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Sat Nov 28, 2009 1:11 pm      Reply with quote
pal wrote:
Kassy Im interested to know if you have made an oil based vitamin c and if so could you please post the receipe. Im sorry if I have missed it.
Thanks Smile


As a matter of fact I have a lovely oil based serum recipe, but I won't be posting it.. Here are the main ingredients;

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Avocado Oil
Hemp Seed Oil
Jojoba Oil

HTH!

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♥I'm flattered by all the lovely PM's, but I don't get here much these days. Please don't be afraid to post your quearies to other DIY members who will be glad to help you (or sell you their wares..lol) Still happy with LED, dermarolling and a DIY antioxidant regime. Peace & Hugs to all.♥
DarkMoon
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Sat Nov 28, 2009 9:45 pm      Reply with quote
A very dear friend who knows I love DIY emailed the following recipe to me just recently. I haven't tried it as of yet as I just got a list of goodies together to order. I just thought I would share for those who would like to try something new and different. 
The following will yeild just about 2 ounces of serum. 

3+3/4 Tsp Hazelnut Oil 
3+3/4 Tsp Jojoba Oil 
3+3/4 Tsp Olive Oil 
3/4 Tsp  Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
1/8 Tsp Vitamin E Oil 

Mix all oils together add the vitamin E mix then add the TA (vit. c)  pour into a dark glass bottle. I would store in the fridge just to be on the safe side! 

Enjoy
DM  

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JessicaWiehle
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Mon Sep 13, 2010 1:27 pm      Reply with quote
Did anyone ever determine if Jojoba could be used as a carrier to LAA? I purchased LAA not realizing I would not be able to use oil like Avocado or Jojoba to create a serum (rookie mistake Smile ) and now I have a lb of this stuff to use up. I made a Simple C serum with LAA, Glycerine and Distilled WAter...but I don't think I let it dissolve well enough because it is a little gloppy. I also added a high quality Vitamin E from Mountain Rose Herbs. Perhaps that created the glop sitting at the top of the solution?

At any rate, do not want to use any sort of silicones or petroleum derived products on my skin so my options are limited. Please chime in if you have a suggestion!
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Mon Sep 13, 2010 2:14 pm      Reply with quote
There are some with Jojoba in the recipe index and also some truly anhydrous recipes made with derivatives of Vitamin C that are oil soluble. Smile

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=11902&sid=bfdb78143fb68c658e2e9b5dcbc91eb9

Hello and Welcome JessicaWiehle Smile

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Mon Sep 13, 2010 4:02 pm      Reply with quote
JessicaWiehle wrote:
Did anyone ever determine if Jojoba could be used as a carrier to LAA? I purchased LAA not realizing I would not be able to use oil like Avocado or Jojoba to create a serum (rookie mistake Smile ) and now I have a lb of this stuff to use up. I made a Simple C serum with LAA, Glycerine and Distilled WAter...but I don't think I let it dissolve well enough because it is a little gloppy. I also added a high quality Vitamin E from Mountain Rose Herbs. Perhaps that created the glop sitting at the top of the solution?

At any rate, do not want to use any sort of silicones or petroleum derived products on my skin so my options are limited. Please chime in if you have a suggestion!


I've found that glycerin can be sticky. That might be what you mean by "gloppy". I'm not a big fan of glycerin - just don't like the feel of it on my skin. Lately I've been using aloe gel - you might want to try that instead. Or SKB if you have it. SKB works more like an emulsifier so the vit E blends in.
JessicaWiehle
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Tue Sep 14, 2010 7:03 am      Reply with quote
ShastaGirl wrote:
JessicaWiehle wrote:
Did anyone ever determine if Jojoba could be used as a carrier to LAA? I purchased LAA not realizing I would not be able to use oil like Avocado or Jojoba to create a serum (rookie mistake Smile ) and now I have a lb of this stuff to use up. I made a Simple C serum with LAA, Glycerine and Distilled WAter...but I don't think I let it dissolve well enough because it is a little gloppy. I also added a high quality Vitamin E from Mountain Rose Herbs. Perhaps that created the glop sitting at the top of the solution?

At any rate, do not want to use any sort of silicones or petroleum derived products on my skin so my options are limited. Please chime in if you have a suggestion!


I've found that glycerin can be sticky. That might be what you mean by "gloppy". I'm not a big fan of glycerin - just don't like the feel of it on my skin. Lately I've been using aloe gel - you might want to try that instead. Or SKB if you have it. SKB works more like an emulsifier so the vit E blends in.


I think the glop is really vitamin E oil not mixing with the water and glycerin. I've worked with glycerin enough to know how sticky it can be. If Aloe Gel and SKB work as emulsifiers maybe I will try that next time Smile. Thank you very much for your response!
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