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Good Sunscreen Article (UVA, UVB, etc.)
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leeleedeedee
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Mon Aug 14, 2006 2:33 pm      Reply with quote
I have been very puzzled by the statement made about UVA rays and that they are constant all year round. So, I contacted Environment Canada, a Government Agency to get an answer from them. They just replied. Here is what they said:

"UVA rays are higher in summer and lower in winter. The main difference is that they are not affected by a change in the thickness in the ozone layer. The ozone layer is normally thickest in late winter and thinnest in late summer, so the seasonal variation of UVB is slightly greater than that of UVA. In the summer, the sun is higher, so all types of radiation will be greater."

Hope this helps those who want to know.
avalange
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Tue Apr 10, 2007 2:48 am      Reply with quote
Wow.

I've read a LOT of sunscreen threads, and this one has been, hands down, the most informative. It should be required reading! Thanks, girls, for taking the time to contribute in such a helpful way. I don't even know whose posts to thank... I thank you all!

I returned my unused 2nd tube of Bioderma Max Fluide 50, mostly because I really hated the way it made my skin so hot, and then I noticed that I got some color after sitting on a park bench for about 45 minutes, approx. 1 hr after applying it... I think the MMU translucent powder I used broke down the chemicals a bit, so it's not its fault, really.

Now I have Avene's 'new' Emulsion 50, which supposedly is based on "MPI-sorb" technology, which offers "protection against UVA and UVB rays (maximum absorption spectrum)." It is "combined with patented mineral screens, with Tinosorb M and S. ... It also contains a vitamin E precursor, anti-oxidant pre-tocopherol, which helps to reinforce the cutaneous barrier, Cucurbita pepo [pumpkin enzymes? why?], which regulates sebum secretion." And of course, Avene thermal water.

Now I think I got the wrong one again--la vie recommended the emulsion gel... Well, I suppose one can never have too many; think I will give this one a try this morning.

Re: chemicals on the skin/barriers, I really love Osea's Advanced Protection Cream before my SS--it has algae gels that form a very light and nourishing barrier on the skin. Also, mixing SKB with a moisturizer would amount to virtually the same thing.

***So you guys are telling me that I damaged my skin by walking around in the sun yesterday with Avene's creme minerale all over my face, proudly like a geisha of spring???

--avalange

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http://newnaturalbeauty.tumblr.com/ 37, light-toned olive skin, broken caps, normal skin. My staples: Osea cleansing milk, Algae Oil, Advanced Protection Cream, Eyes & Lips, Tata Harper, Julie Hewett makeup, Amazing Cosmetics Powder, & By Terry Light Expert, Burnout, and daily inversion therapy and green smoothies!
Molly
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Tue Apr 10, 2007 10:39 pm      Reply with quote
Hi Stardustdy
I haven't tried the L'Oreal UV perfect so can't speak for its texture, but while I'm here.....

You say it has 'quite' good protection because it contains Mexoryl, but because its made lighter for the humid asian climate the UVA protection is estimated to be only 8 PPD
http://makeupalley.com/user/notepad/sunscreens#asia

Besides I'm not that convinced by Mexoryl since Theresa dug up some info showing the main protection in their screens is using Avobenzone as it doesn't protect in the deeper, more aging part of the spectrum very well.
http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=16403&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=25

Mardy Bum - you might also like to take a look at Kathleen's info on using make-up and how SS wears during the day. I don't agree with everything she says about SS but I think the practical advice about application and usage is good and succinct
http://www.skincarecentral.biz/sunscreens-about-.html

Hi Daydreamingda
Sorry, I'm a chicken about recommending particular SS these days. I think its up to the individual to find out the basics at least, weigh up the pros and cons of each kind and make their own informed decision.
Have a quick peek at my SS faq - I've changed my mind a bit since I wrote it, but it tells you the main types of screen at least.
http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?p=162146#162146

Yours is a purely chemical sunscreen and its main actives are:
Octylmethoxycinnamate, Octyl Salicylate, Benzophenone-3, Parsol 1789
My first reaction is that this an older style chemical screen which traps the UV rays and breaks down doing that so you need to reapply. If it's all day protection for incidental exposure your after it's not going to be very effective. I stopped looking at these kind of screens years ago so if I'm wrong there someone please correct me.

I'm not too chicken to say that two popular choices here this year (it changes) are Sofina (mostly physical, a little bit chemical) which has low UVA protection (PPD 8 ) and is mattifying and Avene (uses Tinosorbs), high PPD 20ish but a bit white and sticky. Both of these will last all day and you can use MMU over them without degrading the protection.
sormuimui
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Wed Apr 11, 2007 3:17 pm      Reply with quote
Molly: Since I was looking for answers to my question above I did some research myself and started reading many abstracts of scientific experiments online. From what I've read it seems that the only ingredient that degrades with TiO2 is Avobenzone. It has also been found that chemical ss is more effective when combined with physical ingredients like TiO or ZnO than alone (they tested it with OMC). However I was unable to find too much about Tinosorb and Mexoryl, just found they increased UVA protection and are way better than just Zno and TiO alone.

From what I know you can have a high PPD with low SPF as SPF represents mainly how well it protects UVB rays. PPD is more for UVA rays but may still be insufficient as there are 2 differend types of UVA rays. So even a PA+++ (PPD of Cool with only TiO would mean you are getting UVA protection from mainly the short-waves and not the long ones (340-400mm). I couldn't find info on which are more detrimental to skin but it seems it's important to get broad spectrum UVA protection as well. And there's no point in using a ss and adding that extra step if it means my skin can still be attacked by particular UV rays.

Stardusty: You're in Vancouver so I wouldn't be too worried about not getting adequate sun protection. We don't really get very high UV rays here, even in the summer compared to many other places. I think a PPD of 8 would be just fine as long as you get broad spectrum UVA (meaning a ss with TiO + another ingredient like ZnO, Mexoryl or Tinosorb).
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