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Thu Feb 28, 2008 10:49 am  |
Hi Sadrina & MrsDowFire:
AHA stands for Alpha Hydroxy Acid. This is a blanket term for a variety of fruit acids such as Glycolic, Citric, Lactic, Malic and Tartaric. When included in a product at an effective concentration AHAs help disintegrate the "glue" that holds dead, dry skin cells to the surface of the skin. By doing so, the epidermis is exfoliated leaving a silky texture. Removal of this external barrier enables easier, deeper penetration of other skin actives as well.
BHA stands for Beta Hydroxy acid. There is only one BHA used as an exfoliant - Salicylic Acid. BHA also causes the cells of the epidermis to become unglued, allowing the dead skin cells to slough off, making room for regrowth of the new skin. Beta Hydroxy Acid is reported to improve wrinkling, roughness, and mottled pigmentation of photo-damaged skin after at least 6 months of daily application. Salicylic Acid generally causes less irritation than AHAs. The reason BHA appears to be less irritating than AHAs even though it penetrates deeper into the pore is because BHA is derived from acetylsalicylic acid, or aspirin. Aspirin has anti-inflammatory properties, and salicylic acid retains many of these anti-inflammatory properties.
The main difference between AHAs and BHA is their lipid (oil) solubility. AHAs are water soluble only, while BHA is lipid (oil) soluble. This means that BHA is able to penetrate into the pores which contain sebum and exfoliate the dead skin cells that are built up inside the pore. Because of the differences, BHA is ideal for oily skin as well as issues with blackheads & whiteheads. AHAs are ideal for rejuvenating thickened, sun-damaged skin.
I use a 5% BHA / 10% AHA (Lactic Acid)serum. (I originally started with just 2% BHA, then worked my way up to 2% BHA / 4% AHA combo, and ultimately to the serum I am using now) The company I purchased from is a home based company so I cannot list it on the forum. If anyone is still interested, please PM me and I will forward you all the information.
When purchasing BHA, AHA or Combinations it is important to know that both acids must be at the proper formulations to effectively work. Unfortunately, cosmetic manufacturers are not required to list pH information on the label. The only way to know for sure is to select a company that discloses the pH concentrations or to test with a pH strip. A lower pH will make more of the acid available - so it is stronger and more effective at skin penetration. Proper pH levels would be 2, 3, or 4%. The product I use is formulated at 2%.
Also, unlike AHA's that must be listed in the top 3 ingredients to indicate the appropriate concentration of acid, BHA can be listed in the middle or even towards the bottom of the ingredient list because it is effective at lower concentrations.
The Copper Peptide serum that I use is from Skin Biology. I use the Regular CP serum not the stronger formulas.
HTH |
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Blonde hair, fair skin normal to dry with oily T-zone, Clarisonic, IFP bha/aha combo, Vivier Kine-C, Lips2kiss system, JB ADCE |
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