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Anhydrous Vitamin C recipe?
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Kassy_A
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Sun Sep 13, 2009 5:08 pm      Reply with quote
ANHYDROUS VITAMIN C (THDA) 7%

- 7% Tetrahexyldecly Ascorbate
- 1% Vitamin E Oil
- 92% Monistat Chafing Relief Powder Gel

http://www.drugstore.com/products/prod.asp?pid=139254&catid=26832

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♥I'm flattered by all the lovely PM's, but I don't get here much these days. Please don't be afraid to post your quearies to other DIY members who will be glad to help you (or sell you their wares..lol) Still happy with LED, dermarolling and a DIY antioxidant regime. Peace & Hugs to all.♥
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Tue Sep 15, 2009 5:51 pm      Reply with quote
I know a lot of gyno's give women estrogen cream for the face. I even thought about it years back. I wasn't trying to offend, just a bit of fun included in question as I honestly never have seen the "gel" for sale!
Loads of people think my DIY thing is crazy as well.
If we can't poke a bit of fun in the mix it gets a bit too serious.

JMHO
DM

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Barefootgirl
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Thu Sep 17, 2009 2:22 pm      Reply with quote
If you search that board, you will see that I asked Dr. Todorov the same question.

To my recollection, it is the only post of mine that he has never responded to. I wondered whether it might be that the question raised an issue he did not want to go into.

Skinmedica apparently uses a proprietary process to overcome this hurdle.

If I could make an effective anhydrous C formula at home, I would have been doing that for the past 2 years, instead of doing what I have been doing (buying Skinmedica C or making my own water based serum).

BF
Lacy53
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Thu Sep 17, 2009 3:48 pm      Reply with quote
DarkMoon, maybe this will help you (taken from the monistat (dot) com website):

"This breakthrough product is great for daily prevention and relief of chafing and irritation in delicate areas like your inner thighs, bikini area, underarms and breasts. The formula is unique: the easy-to-apply gel dries to form a silky, breathable barrier. It calms skin while preventing the irritation caused by moisture, heat and movement. It's also great for soothing skin after shaving or waxing.

Non-greasy POWDER-GEL™ skin protectant formula with dimethicone. Dries to form a silky, breathable barrier to fight friction.
Prevents chafing and irritation caused by moisture, heat, and movement. Ideal for treating everyday intimate discomforts of athletes, plus-size women, new moms and bikini area waxers or shavers.
Fast-acting formula comforts chafed skin. Works with just one application.
Fragrance-free and non-staining. Discreet relief without damage to your undergarments.
Non-irritating formula with vitamin E and soothing aloe. Gentle enough for daily use on even your most delicate areas.
Note: This product is not intended to treat yeast infections.
For external use only.
Stop use and ask a doctor if condition worsens, or if symptoms last more than seven days or clear up and occur again within a few days."


The Beauty Brains have done a review on this product that you may also want to take a look at; they list the main ingredients as

Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Trisiloxane, Dimethicone/Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer, Silica

thebeautybrains (dot) com ... I can't post links yet, so just enter the term "monistat" in their search box. HTH

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Kassy_A
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Fri Sep 18, 2009 7:41 pm      Reply with quote
Skippie wrote:
Kassy or someone else who knows,

Is there a reason that L-Ascorbic Acid isn't used in the anhydrous base?

Thanks.


L-AA is water soluble.

The only hope of trying to incorporate L-AA into an anydrous polysilicone base, is to buy the fine powdered L-AA from lotioncrafter, and incorporate it in with a formulating mixer..

I made a serum incorporating both L-AA + THDA, and although it was nice, I didn't find it as effective as the L-AA as far as results. The texture was nicer/smoother going on, but I'm convinced it doesn't absorb as well.. I say this because, when rinsing my face 5 or more hours after I've applied it, the tell tale *slip* is still apparent. (I don't wear makeup, so there is nothing to interfere with this *feeling*.)

For those who want to give it a go, this is my recipe;

17% L-AA + THDA Vitamin C Serum (Anhydrous)

7% THDA
10% L-AA (Lotioncrafter is best for this!)
1% Vitamin E Oil (or ELS (Every Lipid Serum) is nice also
1% Grapeseed Oil
1% Kukui Oil
80% Monistat Chafing Relief Powder Gel

Using a mixer, add and mix thoroughly, one ingredient at a time into the silicone base.

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Keliu
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Fri Sep 18, 2009 7:51 pm      Reply with quote
DarkMoon wrote:
This is why I am thinking of mixing just as needed for one application?? I know Alloette and Philosophy both sell kits that are used this way. I am not a chemist so not sure but it might work this way.


I brought this up on another thread recently:

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewtopic.php?tid=35215

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Keliu
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Fri Sep 18, 2009 9:19 pm      Reply with quote
Here it is - I'm sorry but I've forgotten where I found it from. It wasn't the Elsom Research website (but they do have some interesting research on nanotechnology):

Moisturizing Wrinkle Cream with Green Tea and Vitamins

This is a very simple recipe for an emulsion-based moisturizing cream cosmeceutical,
combining water-based and oil-based ingredients. Based on these ingredients alone, such an emulsion would ordinarily not form. To combine the ingredients and hold the emulsion together, a chemical emulsifier (such as glyceryl monostearate, cetearyl alcohol, or sodium stearoyl lactylate) would be required to stop the oil and water phases from separating. Chemical emulsifiers such as AquaSapone’s AS102 advertise that their use adds a “slick” feel to the finished product. If the natural texture of the combined oil and water phase ingredients is desired, while avoiding harsh emulsifiers, an alternative emulsification technology is needed. Using nano-emulsification technology available from Elsom Research, oil and water phases can be combined into stable, ultra-fine droplet emulsions without the use of chemical emulsifiers. In addition, the tiny droplets (Dispercicles™) produced by nano-emulsification are fast absorbing and too small to clog pores, a problem likely to occur with oil-based formulations. Other options include encapsulated Vitamin A. Elsom Research can provide proprietary nano-encapsulated Vitamin A in vehicles including cyclodextrin and in Nanosomes™.

Yield: 200 grams
Phase 1-- Water:
· Water (76%): 152g
· Green tea extract (2%): 4g
· Vitamin C (5%): 10g

Phase 2-- Oil:
· Grapeseed, apricot kernel, and sweet almond oil (22%): 43.6g
· Vitamin A (0.2%): 0.4g

Phase 3-- Preservative:
18
· Rosemary Oil Extract (preservative and anti-oxidant): 1 drop
· 15 drops Grapefruit Seed Extract (natural antiseptic)

Procedure:
The procedure for combining oil and water phases with the help of a chemical emulsifier
is simple: heat both phases to melt the emulsifier, then let the combination cool, then add the preservative, mix, and pour into jars.

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DarkMoon
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Sat Sep 19, 2009 5:18 am      Reply with quote
http://www.xpressnet.com/bhealthy/vitaminc.html
VITAMIN C

L-ASCORBIC ACID

THERE IS A DIFFERENCE
4 - YEAR STUDY REPORT - EFFECTIVE REGARDING:
 
CANCER
CHELATION
HEART DISEASE
LETHARGY
CATARACTS
DEPRESSION
STRENGTH
BRUISING
HEALING
PALLOR
NOMINAL LIFE
EXTENSION
AND MORE ! ! !
IMPORTANT INFORMATION (ADDENDED)
Vitamin C is a product that is prevalent in many foods and produced by an abundance of chemical companies. The chemical side of Vitamin C is what is basically addressed here. Known by most scientists, but virtually unknown by the public and most doctors is the fact that Vitamin C has two totally and distinctly separate sides, as many products do. The two sides consist of "L"-Ascorbic Acid, which is the (-) side, and D-Ascorbic Acid, which is the (+) side. The L side of Vitamin C is the active side, and is the side which is beneficial to mankind. The D-side of Vitamin C is designated as useless and discarded by the body, as most research shows. People ingesting Vitamin C would only benefit from the "L" side of Vitamin C. Vitamin C is not a stable substance, as some people believe, and the L and D sides are subject to change with moisture an if water is added.

Example: In an orange, the Vitamin C is primarily the L side, and remains so in the surroundings of the orange. However, when the juice has been extracted from the orange for a period of days, the "L" side changes to D and the juice will eventually even off at 50% D and 50% L Vitamin C content. Frozen concentrate orange juice, when thawed and water added, will produce exactly the same action. The exact same action takes place again when Vitamin C is added by manufacturers to juices or drinks.

The assumption the public is under is that the Vitamin C added as a supplement during the manufacture of any liquid is all beneficial, which is a myth. The facts are that adding Vitamin C to drinks may constitute only 50-60% "L", with the remainder being the D side. Although it is believed that the body discards the D side of Vitamin C, further research should be undertaken to confirm this theory, as it may reveal that in some individuals, an abundance of the D side of Vitamin C could conceivably be detrimental to a person's health.

PURITY:
A number of companies produce Vitamin C with varying degrees of purity levels of L-Ascorbic Acid. However, in our research, our company was only able to come up with one producer that manufactures L-Ascorbic Acid at an average consistent 99.9% purity level. In turn, we found only a few companies using the 99.9% L-Ascorbic Acid when producing Vitamin C pills for sale to the public. Additionally, most all of the pill manufacturers add ingredients to the L-Ascorbic Acid with the most prevalent being rose hips, along with other so-called nutrients. In the manufacture of pills, there are a variety of substances added, such as starch, sucrose, talc, povidone, and a battery of other foreign body substances to bind the pills together. We have found that the average make-up of a pill being manufactured today, for anything, is comprised of at least 25% pill fillers which hold the pill together. These pill filler substances are comprised, for the most part, of products and chemicals not normally ingested into the human body as food. These pill fillers are not in the best interest of the recipient, and may very well be detrimental to overall health in the long term. They, in themselves, may cause side effects. As Vitamin C is taken by many people in doses of 1,000 mg per day, they would be ingesting 250 mg of pill fillers, or when taking 10,000 mg per day, ingesting 2,500 mg of pill fillers, on average. Pill filler purities go virtually uncontrolled by our F.D.A.. Pill fillers added to Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) can, and usually do, cause the Ascorbic Acid to break down and "go off". The same instance occurs in a majority of cases when so-called nutrients are added. This further causes side effects and causes a less beneficial effect from the Ascorbic Acid.

STABILITY OF VITAMIN C:
Discount houses and mail order firms, as well as the majority of pharmacies, sell Vitamin C under all kinds of names an at very competitive prices. The producers of these pills range from people in their garage producing pills to legitimate companies. Our company purchased, at random, 1,000 mg Vitamin C tablets from three different nationwide discount stores and pharmacies, different brands. We also purchased mail order Vitamin C powder from two different so-called legitimate producers selling powder to the public. We purchased Vitamin C with additives and without. All five samples of Vitamin C proved unstable and "went off" in a relatively short period of time, while effectiveness decreased accordingly. The very worst product purchased came from a large nationwide discount chain and was produced by a laboratory in the western part of the U.S.. This Vitamin C tested had no additives, other than pill fillers at 250 mg per tablet. Our investigation showed the product was pilled in or about January 1991. By June of 1991, the product was proving unstable. By December of 1992, anyone even looking at the product would have thrown it out, but stamped on the label of this unstable Vitamin C was an expiration date of July 1995. L-Ascorbic Acid at 99.9% purity is, in itself, an extremely stable substance subject only to high moisture. In our testing at 99.9% purity, under normal conditions at room temperature, in an unsealed bottle being opened twice daily for 2 1/2 years the product proved to be extremely stable.

PURITY INCREASES EFFECTIVENESS:
In most cases (with very few exceptions), our company has found that the purer the active ingredient is in products, whether it be a pharmaceutical or a vitamin, the more potent and stable the product remains, and thus the more effective the product is. In the few cases where active ingredients, when extracted or synthesized, prove to be unstable at their highest purity levels, our research indicates that when a stabilizing compound is used and kept at IT's highest purity level, the original active ingredient is much more stable than if less pure stabilizing compounds were used. What is being done by the producers of Vitamin C is that the product is so competitive in pricing that many manufacturers cut quality (purity) to produce a cheap, less pure product, without informing the consumer that the product is much less effective, unbeknownst to the consumer. Not only are the general public and doctors unaware of the L and D sides of Vitamin C, as well as reduced effectiveness when added to juices, they are "also" unaware of the effectiveness regarding purity ratio of the L-Ascorbic Acid. Purity levels are not required by the F.D.A. on labels of any food products, vitamins or pharmaceuticals. That, in itself, is detrimental to the public in most instances. The public, and a majority of doctors, do not realize that it takes considerably less L-Ascorbic Acid at 99.9% purity to produce the same effects as a good deal more of the less pure, less stable Vitamin C offered in most markets today. The price of Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) at 99.9% purity may be higher; however, when it comes to the effectiveness, it may prove to be cheaper, as the amount ingested is considerably less, as our research revealed.

DISPENSING, ADMINISTRATION AND INDICATIONS:
Our research indicates that Vitamin C should not be pilled. It should be dispensed by the producer at a humidity level not exceeding 40% either into capsules or powder, and sold to the public. To be most effective, the 99.9% L-Ascorbic Acid should be taken once or twice daily from 200 mg to 3,000 mg, mixed or taken with condensed orange juice made with distilled water only. People allergic to orange juice should mix or take it only with distilled water. Our research indicates that if L-Ascorbic Acid is taken in this manner, it is at it's highest potency and most effectiveness, without the majority of side effects attributed to it. For years, D.E.D.I. has researched clinical trials regarding Vitamin C, and has additionally conducted private trials with doctors and scientists using L-Ascorbic Acid at 99.9% purity, taken with concentrated orange juice and distilled water. OUR RESEARCH HAS SHOWN L-ASCORBIC ACID, ADMINISTERED IN VARYING AMOUNTS TO BE EFFECTIVE IN REDUCING RISKS OF CANCER AT AN AVERAGE OF 20% IN MALES AND 20% IN FEMALES, AND IN REDUCING RISKS OF HEART DISEASE BY 40% IN MEN AND 20% IN WOMEN. D.E.D.I.'S RESEARCH ALSO SHOWS EFFECTIVENESS IN DEPRESSION, BRUISING, PALLOR, CATARACTS, COMMON COLD, FLU, INFECTIONS, LETHARGY, STRENGTH, HEALING OF WOUNDS, CHELATION, AS WELL AN NOMINAL LIFE EXTENSION.

INDICATIONS FOR CHELATION:
Private trials done by doctors and scientists using 99.9% purity L-Ascorbic Acid with distilled water and concentrated orange juice have reported some remarkable preliminary findings regarding chelation. Dosages of 3,000 mg. per day are indicating the removal of aluminum from brain cells. This could be a big discovery in the relationship to Alzheimer's Disease and other neurological disorders. Further research, along with formal trials, should be conducted to confirm our preliminary findings. Also reported was that people scheduled for by-pass surgery due to blockage of arterial walls were treated only by administering body tolerance levels of 99.9% pure L-Ascorbic Acid daily, and 30 mg aspirin daily for eight weeks. The need for by-pass surgery dissipated, as arterial wall blockage was reduced, DRAMATICALLY, in some instances. This points out the already proven clinical trials that show a dramatic decrease in heart diseases attributed to normal use of normal Vitamin C. Again, further research, along with formal trials, should be conducted to confirm our preliminary findings. It is our opinion that producers of Vitamin C should state on their labels the amount of L-Ascorbic Acid in their Vitamin C, along with the purity level of the L-Ascorbic Acid, as it most assuredly makes a substantial difference in the effectiveness. Additionally, it should not be pilled.

Maybe this explains it!
DM

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Sat Sep 19, 2009 7:07 am      Reply with quote
Here's the recipe from BulkActives. Apparently, they have a new silicone base for disolving actives in:

Anhydrous Double C with E
Phase A
Silicone base 77% 38.50gm
L-ascorbic acid 15% 7.50gm

Phase B
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate 7% 3.50gm
Vitamin E (capsule) 1% 0.50gm
Total Amount 100% 50gm

Mix L-ascorbic with silicone base, use a spatula to make sure all lumps are gone.
Combine Phase A and B, mix well.

*Note that this recipe uses both L-Ascorbic Acid and Oil Soluble Vit C - which is supposed to be better than using one or the other.

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Sat Sep 19, 2009 1:47 pm      Reply with quote
A couple of points which may help you (or which may confuse the matter further):

"Radio labelled ascorbic acid" ... I think this just means ascorbic acid tagged with a mildly radioactive molecule, so the ascorbic acid can be readily identified on (for example) an x-ray or similar device. This is commonly done in some medical tests ... without the inclusion of the radioactive substance, it is impossible to see how a substance moves through the body. If you have had a diagnostic x-ray, and were told first to fast, then given "something" to drink prior to an x-ray, you most likely received a mildly radio-active solution. I believe there are actual devices/machines which can measure penetration of substances into the skin (ie past the statum corneum).

I am sure there is a patent for micronizing ascorbic acid (perhaps a few different ones), which allow the C to penetrate the skin when combined with a water free vehicle, as stated bu Ultraceuticals. So what is the key to all of this .... the size of the l-ascorbic acid, or the delivery system (ie the silicone base)??? I have no clue.

Another question ... for those of you who formulate your own products and purchase ingredients ... is your l-ascorbic acid powder/crystals micronized fine enough to pass through the nonhydrous molecules? (I did see the size given as 38 microns in one of the patents, and got lost after that point ... just too technical for me).

Nanosomes and liposomes, to the best of my knowledge, encapsulate an ingredient (meaning the ingredient is trapped inside the sphere). Over time, the sphere dissolves, releasing the ingredient; the spheres are not uniform in size, and breakdown at different rates. Perhaps this is "time-released".

It has always been my understanding that water is needed to absorb/activate the C. If no water is included in these formulas, I can only assume that the water that exists naturally in our epidermis/skin is the source.

I agree ... a lot of marketing hype when it comes to delivery systems and nonhydrous formulas. Each company claims to have the only system/formula that works. (the transdermal delivery comment was good for a laugh).

As far as using a mortar and pestle goes to make your vitamin c powder finer ... I have read this has been done on the smart skincare forum; it is difficult and can be dangerous. It takes a very long time; a face mask and gloves are recommended.

I don't understand much of the technology; I just use a manufactured vitamin C product (I don't formulate my own, and never will) and hope it does something positive (and nothing negative!).

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Sat Sep 19, 2009 6:17 pm      Reply with quote
I use a Canadian product called Neostrata Intense Skin Brightener; I am not sure if there is a comparable American-made product by Neostrata. It is 20% LAA in a "unique silicone base system". The exact ingredients are printed on the box which I have discarded, so I am not sure what else is in it. I believe it is an airless pump container (non-transparent) which retails for approximately $60 for one ounce. A few times a year they have a BOGO free special so I stock up then. The instructions specifically state "apply to moist skin". The marketing states: Improves the uniformity of skin tone by up to 88% (in a 3 month tolerance and efficacy study conducted by an independent laboratory). I use it 4-5 times a week (sometimes during the day, other times at night) rotating it with other products; I am happy with it.

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Sun Sep 20, 2009 6:23 am      Reply with quote
Excited!

Just found this:

http://puredeming.com/products/treatments.html

Just ordered it - will let you all know how it works out...I wonder why Skinceuticals doesn't employ the same formulation/marketing method.

Their other products look interesting as well.

Price is much cheaper!!

BF - normally doesn't get the enthused, but I have been looking for something like this.
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Sun Sep 20, 2009 10:24 am      Reply with quote
Okay, here's what I've been mixing up:

5 g fine L-ascorbic powder
600 mg tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (the oil-soluble Vitamin C, approx. 1/8 tsp)
1 400 IU gelcap of Vitamen E
45 g silicone base (1.5 ounce Lotioncrafter EL 51; Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer)
.15 g ferulic acid powder

I mix the L-ascorbic powder with a small amount of the silicone base, just enough to dissolve the powder fully (the silicone base turns white). I then mix this into the large remainder of the silicone base.

I mix the ferulic acid with a small amount of the silicone base; then add this back into the mix.

I add the tetrahexlydecyl ascorbate and the contents of a Vitamin E gelcap.

Then I mix it all together using a small plastic spatula.

I like the look of the Bulk Actives recipe Keliu posted earlier in this thread; I'm going to use that for my next batch, with some Ferulic Acid thrown in.

Lisa
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Mon Sep 21, 2009 4:49 am      Reply with quote
I just want to add that the whole bit about the silicones keeping active ingredients from being able to penetrate the skin, is my unscientific opinion, but I do base it on my own independent research (as discussed in previous posts here on the thread).

For me, I would not do it, but you may want to go with it or research it on your own.

BF
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Mon Sep 21, 2009 5:08 am      Reply with quote
Hi all,

This is John from BulkActives, I came across this thread and thought it would be useful to sign up and add some info.

A quick disclaimer:

1. Please note that I am not here to sell things, promote my business, deal with customer issues (slow shipping), or anything else not related to this particular thread.

2. Also note that I am not a scientist or cosmetics formulator, so anything I write is based on experience and reading the relevant studies and patents.

Ok, about the anhydrous C:

1. The idea about putting L-ascorbic acid in silicone is to keep it in a stable base.

The l-ascorbic acid is NOT dissolved, it is suspended.

Like the patent reads:

"Ten patients having facial photodamage were recruited for a double-blind pilot study of a newly formulated vitamin C ,complex having 10% ascorbic acid, a water soluble acid, and 7% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, a lipid soluble analog. Both of these are combined in an anhydrous polysilicone gel base, which acts as a “dermal patch,” releasing the water soluble acid slowly and the lipid soluble analog rapidly. The active vitamin C complex was applied to one side of the face and the inactive placebo base was applied to the opposite side of the face once a day." Fitzpatrick RE, Rostan EF. Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage."

The key points here are:

"acts as a “dermal patch,” releasing the water soluble acid slowly and the lipid soluble analog (ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate) rapidly."

The molecular size of the silicone is irrelevant. However, it is a good idea to use the ultra fine L-ascorbic, because it makes the product NOT grainy, it also allows the L-ascorbic to be much more evenly spread through the silicone base, and it is what the original inventor and patent holder uses.

2. Someone mentioned they were thinking about adding Ferulic acid to the silicone base.

This will not work. Ferulic acid is only soluble in alcohol (or PG). So, the product will separate. I have tried this many times over the last few years and no matter what I do it does not work.

One option would be to 'emulsify' the silicone base with the alcohol. However, I have been looking for the right type of emulsifier for this job for a long time and cannot find anything suitable. What is required is a product that will emulsify a large amount of silicone with alcohol, without needing any water.

Another problem is this. The idea of C+E+Ferulic is for limited sun damage protection (it is NOT a sun block). This is why we add the Vitamin E to the L-ascorbic.

The Ferulic acid is then supposed to increase the protection, and also help stabilize the L-ascorbic.

Now, when you use silicone the L-ascorbic is already stable, so you don't need the Ferulic for that.

However, the main problem is the way the l-ascorbic acid works in the silicone (see item #1: it is suspended and gets slowly released).

I have found that if I wear this during the day then my skin can get VERY irritated, because even a small amount of sweat can get the stuff dissolving and released very fast, too fast.

This is why I only wear this product at night.

3.I follow Dr. Todorov's (smartskincare) advice and apply all my skin care product when my skin is moist (after a shower). The only exception is the anhydrous C. If I put this on a moist face then it again dissolves and releases too quick, and causes a lot of irritation.

I do not think that silicone is a suitable base for all skin care products. I would also never layer anything over the silicone. It does form a barrier, and would prevent other actives from being absorbed.

However, in my unprofessional opinion it IS the perfect way to deal with the instability of L-ascorbic, and for this reason I prefer anhydrous C over a water based product.
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Mon Sep 21, 2009 5:55 am      Reply with quote
jands wrote:
The other alternative is one that has already mentioned.

Make a base of: Vit E, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Ferulic acid, emulsifier AND add your L-ascorbic aid fresh before use (mix in your palm).

This is how 'philosophy - hope and a prayer' solved the unstable l-ascorbic acid problem Smile They simply get the customer to add their 'magic powder' to their 'favorite moisturizer', right before use.

A bit of math will help you work out exactly how much L-ascorbic acid to add to, for example, a spoonful of your pre-made base.


Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! I've been touting this method of application on another thread - without much positive response!

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Wed Sep 23, 2009 12:38 pm      Reply with quote
DarkMoon wrote:
What has been the problem with using Jojoba as a base? I am curious, I am aware Jojoba is not an oil it is a wax ester, it also penetrates the skin quite well. I for one would be willing to mix for each use if oxidation is an issue?


Darkmoon brings up a very interesting point and I'd really appreciate it if someone can offer any insight to this question. Like BFgirl, I'm also very hesitant to use anything with silicones... It would seriously solve a LOT of our problems regarding this C stability dilemma. Anyone? Thanks in advance!

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Wed Sep 23, 2009 8:04 pm      Reply with quote
Keliu wrote:
DarkMoon wrote:
Funny how it seems that question as to Jojoba never gets answered?!?


I would imagine that the "problem" with Jojoba would be that as it is oil like, LAA is not going to dissolve in it - it would be fine for an oil soluble C though.


Well I was thinking, the whole idea of mixing LAA with a silicone base is so that the LAA are "suspended" and "time released" into the skin when it interacts and dissolves in the water in our own skin, right?

Likewise, LAA is equally "un-dissolve-able" in oil/wax. Wouldn't the logic follow that LAA can also suspend in Jojoba and get time released into the skin?

Does this make sense?

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Asian. Near 30. Prone to broken caps, moles + freckles, large congested pores, hormonal cystic acne, flaky skin and fat puffy eyelids. Staples: Bioderma SS, Taz, Dr. Kassy's C, Skinoren, HQ, Cerave and growth factors-- but also trying EVERYTHING ELSE.....
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Fri Sep 25, 2009 5:11 am      Reply with quote
Skippie wrote:
Quote:
That's the skinmedica C study, skippie (not sure if you were aware of that or not!).


No, I had no clue, Rileygirl. Is there a discussion of this study somewhere that I missed? Is the Skinmedica C made with the polysilicone gel that was used in the study?


Here's the ingredients for the skinmedica C, skippie.

Cyclomethicone, Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Polysilicone-11, Phytantriol, Ethoxydiglycol, Bisabolol, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Tocopherol.

I have 2 samples of this and I am using it. I don't have any issues with silicones or anything on my skin. I very much like the texture of this, and it really leaves your skin very soft. When I look on the Skinmedica site though, the C complex, which are the ingredients above, does not seem to be listed any longer and now it says C&E. So, I am not sure if they renamed the product or not. I may purchase the Skinmedica product, just not sure yet!

ETA: Here's the skinmedica study.

http://www.skin-medica.ru/docs/spesialist/VitC-Fitzpatrick-Low-Rez.pdf
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Fri Oct 02, 2009 5:25 am      Reply with quote
I won't be buying the Deming C serum again.

(1) It doesn't properly dissolve, no matter what I try to make that happen
(2) It is so thin and watery, that there is a lot of waste when trying to move it from the bottle to the skin..(they should improve the design, using a dropper or something, etc.)
(3) The company refused to answer a couple basic questions.

BF
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Sat Nov 14, 2009 5:59 am      Reply with quote
fat_swan,

This is my recipe:

3 tsp cucumber distillate
2 tsp cranberry seed oil
1 tsp LAA
¼ tsp MAP
1/8 tsp Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
2 vitamin e capsules
1 tsp Polysorbate 20
1/8 tsp optiphen

It did turn out a little sticky. I haven't tried to trace down the ingredient that did it, but I suspect it's the cucumber distillate.
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