| Author |
Message |
|
|
 |
Sun Dec 29, 2013 8:10 am  |
The melting point of ferulic acid is 170-174º C.
A bit of oil in the formula will make it more skin-friendly imho but you can try it without oil.
Yes I would keep the ferulic acid and vit E % the same regardless of the vit C content. Good idea to start low and work up!
But using water-soluble vitamin e acetate will give you a water-only serum w/o needing an emulsifier:
http://stores.skinessentialactives.com/-strse-53/Vitamin-E--fdsh-dl-dsh-alpha-dsh-Tocopheryl-acetate/Detail.bok |
_________________
✪ My go-to products: MyFawnie.BigCartel.com ✪ |
|
|
|
|
Sun Dec 29, 2013 9:15 am |
You're going to get only a very itty bitty amount of Ferulic Acid to dissolve in H20, if any. As Fawnie pointed out, the melting point is above 170C and water boils at 100C. You'd also have significant evaporative loss of H20 and FA would likely just precipitate out again.
I would use a bit of EtOH or NaOH. It's such a tiny amount it shouldn't really have too much affect on your skin. |
|
|
|
|
|
Sun Dec 29, 2013 12:38 pm |
| bacchus wrote: |
P.S. I guess I should clarify - I do know that dissolving and melting are 2 different things.
The point is, though, you won't get much dissolved FA in H20  |
Hmm, good point. Do we know how much FA is dissolved in water? I too use NaOH to dissolve my FA when making a C serum since it automatically partially neutralizes the ascorbic acid (I use AA2G which is very acidic initially but can be used at higher pH).
Some mfrs claim theirs is water soluble but dont specify "how" soluble:
"Molecular Structure
O
HO
O
OH
trans-Ferulic Acid
Characteristics White or off-white crystalline powder
Solubility
Soluble in hot water, alcohol and ethyl acetate; moderately soluble in
ether; sparingly soluble in petroleum ether and benzene.
Specification Food Grade (98%)
Category Skin Care, Sun Care, Hair Care
Functions Antioxidant, UV filter, Anti-aging, Anti-inflammatory
Features
EcoCare™ FA is the pure natural antioxidant from rice bran.
Effectively scavenges free radicals and suppresses melanin generation
by antagonizing tyrosine. Used as an UV protection agent and
whitening agent in cosmetic products.
Applications Sunscreen lotions, anti-aging creams, skin lightening creams
Typical Dosage 0.25-5.0% (depending on application and formulation)
Packing 5kg aluminum foil bag, 10kg paper drum or 25kg paper drum
Transport Non-hazardous cargo (IMDG/IATA)
Remarks Safety and efficacy report available upon request.
Available only for R&D uses if covered by patents.
Manufacturer ECOCHEM LABORATORIES LTD.
Distributor
ECOCHEM SPECIALTIES LIMITED
P.O. Box 65, Changzhou, Jiangsu, China
T: 86-519-88120006 F: 86-519-88122985
E: sales@ecochem.cn W:www.ecochem.cn"
I use FA @ 0.5% but in water I spose it could be overshot @5.0% to compensate for solubility issues, but dont quote me/its just a WAG. |
_________________
✪ My go-to products: MyFawnie.BigCartel.com ✪ |
|
|
|
|
Sun Dec 29, 2013 1:49 pm |
| Oddinary wrote: |
Thanks guys. Apparently ferulic acid is also very soluble in propylene glycol?
So perhaps I'll add that, and lecitin to emulsify the alpha-tocopherol with the water.
By the way, tap water or distilled?
Are the percentages of propylene glycol and lecitin trial and error?
And I won't need a preservative other than the vit. E, right? |
Ive never used propylene glycol as a solvent on my skin so I dont know, sorry. I can understand if you have religious bias against alcohol but its really better for the skin than propylene glycol imho.
Distilled water.
Vitamin E is an antioxidant not a preservative so yes you need 0.5% preservative if you are making more than you will use up in a week refrigerated.
Why not rethink the whole thing and use 1-2% sclerotium gum as a gelling agent to make a suspension instead of an emulsion? It would be a lot easier given that you are only using 1% vitamin E (if you decide to go with the oil form of E).
http://stores.skinessentialactives.com/-strse-105/Sclerotium-Gum%2C-15-grams/Detail.bok
Or dissolve 0.5% xanthan gum in part of the water phase and use that to bind the oil and water phases together. Xanthan gum is available in health food stores in the baking section. |
_________________
✪ My go-to products: MyFawnie.BigCartel.com ✪ |
|
|
|
|
Mon Dec 30, 2013 2:27 am |
| Oddinary wrote: |
Apparently ferulic acid is also very soluble in propylene glycol?
|
I use dipropylene glycol because it's got a better safety profile but is usually the same price. It works a charm if you are interested! |
|
|
|
|
|
Mon Dec 30, 2013 4:43 am |
| Oddinary wrote: |
| Chlorophyll wrote: |
| Oddinary wrote: |
Apparently ferulic acid is also very soluble in propylene glycol?
|
I use dipropylene glycol because it's got a better safety profile but is usually the same price. It works a charm if you are interested! |
Excellent, thanks. Would you be able to tell me what can be unsafe about it? I see all kinds of "food grade propylene glycol" - is it really that bad? |
No, not really. Dipropylene glycol is just less irritating and whatnot than propylene glycol. It's usually not any more expensive either so I prefer it. (Sometimes I'll even use both if I have a formula with a ton of actives and I want lots of penetration power.) |
|
|
|
|
| Tue Dec 03, 2024 11:21 pm |
If this is your first visit to the EDS Forums please take the time to register. Registration is required for you to post on the forums. Registration will also give you the ability to track messages of interest, send private messages to other users, participate in Gift Certificates draws and enjoy automatic discounts for shopping at our online store. Registration is free and takes just a few seconds to complete.
Click Here to join our community.
If you are already a registered member on the forums, please login to gain full access to the site. |
|
 |
|
