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Wed Sep 02, 2009 11:01 am |
I heard Emu Oil and Jojoba....which one is better....or is there another one? |
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Wed Sep 02, 2009 11:11 am |
I've always been told jojoba is the closest. Emu is more moisturizing and occlusive. Also, emu oil is not humane since they boil the bird's flesh to obtain the oil by skimming it off the top of the water. |
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Wed Sep 02, 2009 12:05 pm |
That is an excellent question mex0050, and it is probably the FIRST thing all cosmetic consumers should think about before buying any cosmetic product.
Your skin's natural sebum is made up of several ingredients including: Triglyceride Oils (Fatty Acids of rather defined amounts: 2% Myristic Acid, 20% Palmitic Acid, 4% Palmitoleic Acid, 11% Stearic Acid, 31% Oleic Acid, 5% Linoleic [Omega 6] Acid, and less than 1% Linolenic [Omega 9] and other fatty acids), Wax Esters, Cholesterol Wax Esters, Squalene, some phytosterols and ceramides. But the major components are Fatty Acids, Wax Esters and Squalene.
Now, Jojoba Oil is the ONLY source on earth of botanical wax esters. And these wax esters have the same composition as skin wax esters. Emu Oil does have a fatty acid composition similar to that of humans, essentially because it is a living creature. But, there are also more polyunsaturated fatty acids in Emu oil which means one thing... it is an inherently unstable oil. It will oxidize, rather quickly into short chain aldehydes and ketones and these molecules smell bad. That is the definition of becoming "rancid". There is just no way that I would formulate with, or put, animal fat on my skin. The FAR better choice is Macadamia oil which has a fatty acid profile extremely close to that of human sebum, and it is an inherently stable oil. It does not go rancid.
So, look for cosmetic products that combine jojoba oil, macadamia oil, squalene, and other inherently stable oils and you will have found a very "skin friendly" cosmetic product that not only will function very well as a moisturizer, but will not disrupt normal skin function like most other creams and lotions on the market today. This is scientific fact, and it is backed up by a study from the University of Sweden that was published last fall.
I hope this helps answer your question,
John |
_________________ President and Chief Formulator, Never Over The Hill Cosmetics, Patend holder, Award winning cosmetic chemist, neveroverthehill.com, Age 51 and staying young forever! |
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Wed Sep 02, 2009 3:10 pm |
I love, love, love jojoba. Have tried tons of other oils, keep coming back to jojoba. My very close second is Camellia. Emu does not seem to sit well with my skin. I use copper peptides, and I use jojoba with mine instead of Emu. |
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Wed Sep 02, 2009 3:27 pm |
skincareaddict75, I'll bet what you are in love with is: how "dry" jojoba seems to feel on the skin rather than oily or greasy like other triglyceride oils. As a matter of fact, Jojoba isn't an "oil" at all, but a liquid wax ester. Using this in creams and lotions can help achienve a true "oil free" claim. Also, the speed at which it penetrates the skin is amazing, due to the extreme compatibility to natural skin sebum. This makes it a fantastic emollient for carrying "actives" into the skin.
That's why I feel it is just as important, if not MORE important to use products with botanical, stable, and skin friendly emollients... rather than just looking for the "active" ingredients. Without good skin friendly emollients, most active ingredients don't stand a chance of penetrating deep into the skin to perform any function.
John |
_________________ President and Chief Formulator, Never Over The Hill Cosmetics, Patend holder, Award winning cosmetic chemist, neveroverthehill.com, Age 51 and staying young forever! |
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Wed Sep 02, 2009 4:53 pm |
I would also say that jojoba and macadamia oils are the best for skin. I tried Emu oil and my skin break out with hives and blisters. On the top of that reaction I felt nauseous because of the smell of Emu oil. I have to say that oil was fresh and a smell is not very strong and it is probably just an allergic reaction to Emu protein as my allergist said. |
_________________ Blond, blue eyes.Skin: Normal, sometimes oily, during winter very dry. Very sensitive. Occasional breakouts. Very fair. |
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Joined: 13 Aug 2009
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Thu Sep 03, 2009 1:10 pm |
NOTCH wrote: |
skincareaddict75, I'll bet what you are in love with is: how "dry" jojoba seems to feel on the skin rather than oily or greasy like other triglyceride oils. As a matter of fact, Jojoba isn't an "oil" at all, but a liquid wax ester. Using this in creams and lotions can help achienve a true "oil free" claim. Also, the speed at which it penetrates the skin is amazing, due to the extreme compatibility to natural skin sebum. This makes it a fantastic emollient for carrying "actives" into the skin.
That's why I feel it is just as important, if not MORE important to use products with botanical, stable, and skin friendly emollients... rather than just looking for the "active" ingredients. Without good skin friendly emollients, most active ingredients don't stand a chance of penetrating deep into the skin to perform any function.
John |
John, do you think that since jojoba is closely related to skin's natural oils that it's bad for oily, acne prone skin? A lot of acne prone individuals are swearing by it but it makes me a little cautious. Is jojoba beneficial or harmful for oily, acne prone skin? |
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Thu Sep 03, 2009 1:16 pm |
I have acne prone skin and i use clarified jojoba. |
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Thu Sep 03, 2009 2:16 pm |
I've been using hemp oil to massage my face. However, I do not use it where I have enlarged pores. Any thoughts on hemp oil? |
_________________ 65 Caucasion, history of acne, sagging, some wrinkling, rough texture. Using Dermawand, AALS, Microderm Machine,Copper Peptides |
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Thu Sep 03, 2009 2:31 pm |
you know, i love hemp oil, but it gets rancid way, way too easily for me. ![Sad](images/smiles/sad.gif) |
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Thu Sep 03, 2009 2:34 pm |
Camelia oil is good for acne prone skin. |
_________________ Blond, blue eyes.Skin: Normal, sometimes oily, during winter very dry. Very sensitive. Occasional breakouts. Very fair. |
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Thu Sep 03, 2009 5:02 pm |
Yes, hemp oil is highly unstable with far too many polyunsaturated fatty acids. It will go rancid quickly.
If you used refined Jojoba Oil, you will find that it is not pore clogging and will not flare up any type of acne. Of course, if your skin is already "oily" I would not overload any liquids on the skin. A very fine coating of jojoba surely wouldn't hurt though. Or, a good lotion that contains jojoba and other non-comedogenic emollients.
John |
_________________ President and Chief Formulator, Never Over The Hill Cosmetics, Patend holder, Award winning cosmetic chemist, neveroverthehill.com, Age 51 and staying young forever! |
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Thu Sep 03, 2009 5:18 pm |
Anyone knows about Apricot oil? |
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Fri Sep 04, 2009 10:51 am |
NOTCH wrote: |
Yes, hemp oil is highly unstable with far too many polyunsaturated fatty acids. It will go rancid quickly.
If you used refined Jojoba Oil, you will find that it is not pore clogging and will not flare up any type of acne. Of course, if your skin is already "oily" I would not overload any liquids on the skin. A very fine coating of jojoba surely wouldn't hurt though. Or, a good lotion that contains jojoba and other non-comedogenic emollients.
John |
Thanks, John. Do you have a good moisturizer in mind for oily, acne prone skin? I normally wouldn't even use a moisturizer (just a 'moisturizing' toner) but BP has left my skin pretty dried out and flakey. |
_________________ 25 yr old Esthetician, ingredient fanatic, Fair, Oily/acne prone, battling scarring from past severe acne. |
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Fri Sep 04, 2009 12:21 pm |
NOTCH wrote: |
Yes, hemp oil is highly unstable with far too many polyunsaturated fatty acids. It will go rancid quickly.
If you used refined Jojoba Oil, you will find that it is not pore clogging and will not flare up any type of acne. Of course, if your skin is already "oily" I would not overload any liquids on the skin. A very fine coating of jojoba surely wouldn't hurt though. Or, a good lotion that contains jojoba and other non-comedogenic emollients.
John |
How long can you keep hemp oil for? And do you have to keep it chilled? |
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Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:29 pm |
Hi Notch,
Does the macadamia oil have to be refined/ cold pressed/ extra virgin/ or have some fancy term? The only kind I found here in Asia is for plain old cooking. Will that do? Thanks!
And can you please share with us your opinion on grapeseed oil (the cooking kind)? I'm interested in incorporating that into my routine for the antioxidants as well. Thanks!
Swan |
_________________ Asian. Near 30. Prone to broken caps, moles + freckles, large congested pores, hormonal cystic acne, flaky skin and fat puffy eyelids. Staples: Bioderma SS, Taz, Dr. Kassy's C, Skinoren, HQ, Cerave and growth factors-- but also trying EVERYTHING ELSE..... |
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Sat Sep 05, 2009 7:18 pm |
try rosehip oil~~ ![Smile](images/smiles/smile.gif) |
_________________ How are you ![Smile](images/smiles/smile.gif) |
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Sat Sep 05, 2009 8:58 pm |
I don't trust synthetic oil. And even plant's oil still could not be similar with the oil from our skin.
Maybe, I think oil from some animal, who has the similar DNA with us, may has the oil that you need. |
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Sun Sep 06, 2009 12:02 pm |
I know no one asked for my opinion... but using animal oil (including emu) is gross and inhumane... |
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Mon Sep 07, 2009 11:54 pm |
Wow, thank you NOTCH for all the information. ![Very Happy](images/smiles/biggrin.gif) |
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Tue Sep 08, 2009 9:51 am |
fat_swan wrote: |
Hi Notch,
Does the macadamia oil have to be refined/ cold pressed/ extra virgin/ or have some fancy term? The only kind I found here in Asia is for plain old cooking. Will that do? Thanks!
And can you please share with us your opinion on grapeseed oil (the cooking kind)? I'm interested in incorporating that into my routine for the antioxidants as well. Thanks!
Swan |
I would look for "refined and pasteurized" Macadamia Oil for one very critical reason...nut allergies. It is critical to de-nature the nut "proteins" out of the oil so that only the fatty acids remain. It is these fatty acids that the skin needs. The nut "proteins" are what cause allegies, some of which can be quite severe. I would caution against using the "raw" macadamia oil.
There is no doubt that Grape Seed oil (Vitis Vinifera) has antioxidant properties. The only problem is Grape Seed Oil has approximately 73% polyunsaturated fatty acids, which means it is going to be a highly unstable oil. It can oxidize and go rancid very easily (losing activity). If you choose to use Grape Seed Oil, buy the freshest supply you can, keep it refrigerated, and try to use it up as quickly as possible.
Hope this helps,
John |
_________________ President and Chief Formulator, Never Over The Hill Cosmetics, Patend holder, Award winning cosmetic chemist, neveroverthehill.com, Age 51 and staying young forever! |
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Sun Sep 20, 2009 4:41 am |
Wow thank you for the informative posts, John! ![Smile](images/smiles/smile.gif) |
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Fri Sep 25, 2009 1:18 am |
How about olive-oil derived squalane?
I used Squalane before and it certainly was absorbed into my skin fast without leaving the usual oily-feel...
There was still the 'film' feeling but it's more of the silky feeling as opposed to the sticky feeling? Haha sorry but that's the best description I can give at the moment ![Razz](images/smiles/razz.gif) |
_________________ A girl of 25, living in Singapore & still searching for that one line of skincare products that i can continue using for long term for my combi-dry-prone to bumps/spots skin... |
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Fri Sep 25, 2009 9:46 am |
I recently discovered chaulmoogra butter/oil from garden of wisdom and it is definitely at the top of my list now, and I've tried every oil mentioned thus far except macadamia oil. It is very healing and plumping, almost the consistency of vaseline, but it absorbs quickly and leaves a non greasy dewiness to the skin. I'm also really liking hazelnut oil.
It's odd though, I've found certain varieties of jojoba oil I've loved, and others I absolutely hated, so often times it may depend on the source of your oil, it's origin, how it is produced, level of refinement, etc...I think this makes a bigger difference than one may expect. |
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Fri Sep 25, 2009 1:21 pm |
I've seen lanolin quoted by medical sources.
BF |
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