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Kassy's AALS pre treatment?
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Kassy_A
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Sun Dec 05, 2010 11:54 pm      Reply with quote
It's hysterical to see my name on a thread title.. Laughing

DM, thanks for digging up the recipe's... Very Happy

I'm trying to hunt down some retail products that would be complimentary to our LED treatments. (I totally understand that there are many reasons, folks would prefer that to DIY.)

So if I were buying a product to use with the LED, I would look for a serum consistency, with the 1st ingredient being H20, and I'd keep away from anything with occlusive ingredients **mineral oil, most silicones, (supposedly cyclomethicone only remains on the skin until the actives penetrate, and then it dissipates), petrolatum, shea butter and anything that contained oil through the 1st 2/3rds of the ingredient list** (If an essential oil is listed in the last 5 ingredients, it's probably just a few drops, and shouldn't matter. If you can avoid oil all the better, but if you find an exceptional product you can work around the oil, by allowing your product to penetrate up to an hour, then wiping with a damp cloth before your LED treatment.)

The other important things to look for (IMHO), are ingredients that are known to nourish and beautify the skin, help with collagen synthesis and go after free radicals. Probably the best of the bunch, in no particular order are the following vitamins and actives:

- Vitamins A, B3(niacinamide), C(ester for LED use could be best if you don't want to wait 30 minutes to treat) + E
- Co Q 10
- Pumpkin Seed Extract (when this is used at 5% it increases ATP, but you'd never get this unless you DIY!)
- Alpha Lipoic Acid
- Green Tea
- White Tea
- Algae Extract
- Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
- Matrixyl 3000
- Hyaluronic Acid
- MSM
- Sea Kelp

There are lots more great actives/antioxidants, but these I can personally vouch for at this point in time.

So now to a few retail products.

LightStim Serum: $70. 1oz (10% discount for EDS members through LS

Ingredients: Purified Water, Cyclomethicone, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycerine (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Water (and) Carbomer (and) Polysorbate-20 (and) Palmitoyl Oligopeptide (and) Palmitoyl-Tetrapeptide-7, Saccharide Isomerate, Water (and) Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract (and) Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (and) Hydrolyzed Soy Protein (and) Tripeptide-10 Citrulline (and) Tripeptide-1 (and) Lecithin (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Carbomer (and) Triethanolamine (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Caprylyl Glycol, Oleth-10, *** Ergothioneine, Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Carbomer, Tromethamine.

It's a nice light serum, with only a very faint, fresh smell, it goes on smoothly and penetrates within 30 seconds. I've used it for more than a month, but do not notice any visual improvements overall. (I *kind of* notice what looks like a softening in an undereye line that was fairly deep.) It has some very nice actives in it, but some are housed in some chemicals that I'd prefer not to use. I realize they are in minute proportions, but I'm quite anal about my ingredients.

Should I continue to purchase this product, I would definitely be tweaking it with an increase of the best it has to offer, and the addition of some other complimentary actives. I cannot justify this price, unless I can turn 1oz into 2oz. (That's just me though, because I know how cheaply good products can be made at home... Laughing )

Eminence Eight Greens Youth Serum $38.00 1oz (EDS store!)

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/eminence-eight-greens-you-p_6858.htm

Ingredients: Yucca Extract: supplies phytoestrogens, regenerates, antioxidant
• Flaxseed/Linseed Extract: Omega 3s, heals and protects, antioxidant
• Hop Extract: calming, regenerating, antioxidant
• Paprika: assists in increasing stimulation and oxygenation of the skin
• Vitex Agnus Castus: nourishing, anti-aging, antioxidant
• Biocomplex™: an antioxidant booster of Vitamins A, Ester-C, E, Coenzyme Q10, Alpha Lipoic Acid

This is all that is disclosed, so I have no way of knowing what the 'base' is, or how it is preseved.. Confused To me it looks rather nice though, and I think it would compliment LED treatments. It's also not breaking the bank, and is even cheaper when applying our member discount. (Nice tweaking possibilities as well!)

Juice Beauty Soothing Serum $36. 2oz (EDS store!)

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/juice-beauty-soothing-ser-p_7975.htm

Ingredients: organic juices of vitis vinifera (white grape) juice, rubus idaeus (red raspberry) juice & aloe barbadensis leaf juice, glycerin, organic cucumis sativus (cucumber) extract, organic botanical extracts of glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root, arctostaphylos uva ursi (bearberry) leaf, rubus idaeus (red raspberry) leaf, calendula officinalis flower & matricaria chamomilla flower, organic algae extract, vitis vinifera (grape) seed oil, organic essential fatty acids of oenothera biennis (evening primrose), linum usitatissimum (linseed) seed & borago officinali (borage) seed, organic sesamum indicum (sesame) seed oil, tocopherol & tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E), panthenol (vitamin B5), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (vitamin C), phospholipids, retinyl palmitate (vitamin A), hesperidin methyl chalcone (vitamin P), potassium sorbate, hyaluronic acid, sclerotium gum, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, disodium EDTA, sodium hydroxide, limonene, linalool, lavandula angustifolia, tanacetum annuum (blue chamomile) & anthemis nobilis (roman chamomile) pure essential oils.

Now with this one, because there are oils in the middle of the list, as well as retinyl palmitate (which is heat sensitive), it would be best to apply on your clean, exfoliated face, wait 30 minutes, wipe anything that remains with a damp cloth, and then do an LED treatment. These ingredients look especially nice for those who also want a 'calming' affect along with their nourishing. (I'm a huge JB fan, love the stuff!) (Check out the other serums also.)

There are tons more options available at all price points. The best way to find what you like is to google a few of your top choice actives together.. (For example, put this in your "google" box, and watch all the products that come up:) coq10+alphalipoicacid+skincare

You can then compare ingredient lists, to see what suits your individual needs best. It's fun and very informative.. Very Happy

I'll keep my eye out for other products, and be happy to post whatever I find..

IN FACT!!!!! Maybe you wouldn't mind having your thread name changed to something broarder.. (Perhaps; LED Treatment Serums, What's Working For You?) That way all members would share some great things that we may never hear about otherwise.

I could talk about this subject all day and night... Idea

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♥I'm flattered by all the lovely PM's, but I don't get here much these days. Please don't be afraid to post your quearies to other DIY members who will be glad to help you (or sell you their wares..lol) Still happy with LED, dermarolling and a DIY antioxidant regime. Peace & Hugs to all.♥
Kassy_A
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Thu Dec 09, 2010 12:36 pm      Reply with quote
It doesn't look like too many people are interested in the LED serum topic, but I came across another affordable serum that looks like it would be good, especially for those who are treating hyper-pigmentation. Have a look:

http://www.vitacost.com/CSI-Skin-Brightening-Serum-Plant-Based-Formula/?bnPageBox=cp_popularproducts&vbnpid=42231

INGREDIENTS:

Seaweed extract, hyaluronic acid, purified water saxifraga sarmentosa extract, vitis vinifera (grape) fruit extract, morus bombycis root extract, scutellaria baicalensis root extract, malva sylvestris (mallow) extract, menta piperita (peppermint) extract, primula veris (primula) extract, alchemilla vulgaris (lady’s mantle) extract, veronica officinalis (speedwell herb) extract, melissa officinalis (balm mint) extract, achililea millefolium (yarrow) extract, phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin.

This serum looks excellent too;

http://www.vitacost.com/CSI-Multipeptide-Anti-Wrinkle-Serum/?bnPageBox=pp_frequentlyboughttogether

INGREDIENTS:

Chondrus crispus (seaweed) extract, purified water(aqua), hyaluronic acid, acetyl hexapeptide-8, pentapeptide-18, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide, diacetate, acetyl glutamyl heptapeptide-1, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin.

Ironically, I just now got an email notification for 10% off (I think everything) with the following code;

through 12/31/10 DDEALS

Also free shipping on orders over $99. USD with the following code;

through 12/31/10 WB12XH

Anyhoo, just thought I'd share my thoughts for those interested.. Smile

**My fingers are crossed that Havana changes this thread name** ... I really think this subject would benefit a great many LED users (DIYer's or otherwise!)**.. Pray

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♥I'm flattered by all the lovely PM's, but I don't get here much these days. Please don't be afraid to post your quearies to other DIY members who will be glad to help you (or sell you their wares..lol) Still happy with LED, dermarolling and a DIY antioxidant regime. Peace & Hugs to all.♥
Kassy_A
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Thu Dec 09, 2010 9:56 pm      Reply with quote
RussianSunshine wrote:
Kassy_A wrote:

The problem I have with this product is the 'polymers' it contains, because they are occlusive.


I have just bought another bottle of Nanci's Green Teas serum Confused Ok, I will do as you recommend and wipe away any remnants before the LED treatment, not after as I used to do. You are right, I feel like I have to wash this serum off.

Thanks, Kassy_A, for your insights! I will check out all the serums you have recommended!!

I also have amazing results with my DPL, but I have not found any serum that can make my DPL work "10 times faster than using LEDs alone".


There's an easy way to check any serum or cream you use to see if occlusive agents (like polymers or silicones) have remained on the skin.

Apply said serum or cream, massage in till it feels absorbed and then wait an hour.... Now wet your hands with warm water, and rub around your face. It it feels smooth, slippery or slimy, it is indeed the occlusive material that has NOT penetrated. That's the job of silicones, polymers + petrolatums though, (to form a seal on the skin to keep the goodies in.) It's just not a good thing for LED treatments, where you don't want any possibility of something that could possibly interfere with the light penetrating.

I think it's always a good idea for everybody to read all that is available from many members, and then do some research and testing of theories on our own. I am far from perfect on most beauty topics, but I'm glad to share the few things that I do know a thing (or 10) about.

Don't discount Nanci's GTS because it's a nice product. Just try wiping your face before your treatment, and see if that brings a nicer result for you. I'm thinking it will.. Wink

Also, in case it helps anyone, I find that a variety of topicals used, yield the best results. Try not to be religious about any one thing. Not only will you get bored, but your skin won't be challenged/fed enough..

I don't have anything scientific to prove that thought, but I'm honestly continuing to see proof positive in the mirror. I honest to God haven't changed/aged in years. To me that's miracle enough.. Laughing

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♥I'm flattered by all the lovely PM's, but I don't get here much these days. Please don't be afraid to post your quearies to other DIY members who will be glad to help you (or sell you their wares..lol) Still happy with LED, dermarolling and a DIY antioxidant regime. Peace & Hugs to all.♥
Lacy53
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Fri Dec 10, 2010 1:05 pm      Reply with quote
Kassy_A wrote:
RussianSunshine wrote:
What about NCN's Pre_LED Green tea Serum?

Ingredients: Ingredients: 5% Organic Japanese Green Tea Extract (Camellia Sinensis 3%, Epigallocatechin Gallate (EGCG) 2%). Other ingredients: De-Ionised Spring Water, Acrilate C-10/30 Cross Polymer, Triethanolomines, Cyclopentasiloxane, Aloe Vera Leaf Juice, Phenoxyethanol and Caprylyl Glycol (Optiphen®).

Directions: Apply a thin layer on clean skin 15-20 minutes prior to your LED treatment.

Does a Pre-LED treatment not have to include Green Tea??

From NCN's site:

Green Tea Serum

German scientists have discovered that applying Green Tea prior to an LED treatment works 10 times faster than using LEDs alone .

So I assume green tea must be in the list and no oils and chemicals? Otherwise ok?



The problem I have with this product is the 'polymers' it contains, because they are occlusive. (There is a more in depth discussion back somewhere in the AALS thread and Nanci weighed in there as well.)

I still stand by what I said back then, and respectfully disagree with Nanci.



I don't understand why you think polymers are occlusive to light. They may be occlusive to water, but that doesn't mean visible light is unable to get through them. If something is transparent then light will pass through it; in fact the definition of transparency is "the physical property of allowing light to pass through a material."

A simple example to distinguish "occlusive to light" from "occlusive to water" would be a clear glass tumbler. The light rays will easily pass through it, but water will not ... which is why some liquids are packaged in clear glass jars. Similarly, a clear plastic umbrella will protect you from the rain, but not from the sun. Only opaque objects are impenetrable by light (by definition). I don't see why oil would be occlusive to light either, although they may be somewhat "waterproof".

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RussianSunshine
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Wed Dec 15, 2010 7:08 pm      Reply with quote
JonnyNJ wrote:

Since one can not tell what may block the infrared without determining the absorbance spectra of the chemical I will be using my LightStim on a clean are face.


JonnyNJ, but Kassy_A is suggesting to wash the serum/cream off before the LED treatment. So you let it absorb for 1 hour and then wipe it off. What can possibly block the light?
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Wed Dec 15, 2010 10:41 pm      Reply with quote
For what it's worth: Lacy has a history of trying to dispel Kassy's recs. Kassy has always said she writes what she knows based on her own research. We all should do what we think is best.

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Thu Dec 16, 2010 11:59 am      Reply with quote
Lacy53 wrote:

Jonny, perhaps you could address this statement from the Estee Lauder patent application:

...Results are recorded in terms of intensity vs wavelength. Formula 1 demonstrated a light transmission rate of about 92%, and Formula 2 demonstrated a light transmission rate of about 88%. [/i]

... Does that allay any of your fears about using a pretreatment serum?


90% average is good. Well within my tolerance limits. I've been doing a little more research on this and I believe that as long as one stays away from minerals (i.e. zinc oxide, etc) then transmission rates should be acceptable at all wavelengths with just about any transparent topical product, aqueous or oil based.

Regarding the LightStim, I'm thinking now that I may use a very thin tamanu/emu oil or tamanu/jojoba oil blend with green tea oil or green tea oil soluble extract of which there are a few choices. I want the anti-inflammatory effects of tamanu and the antioxidant properties of green tea. The only aspect that may be an issue is reports on EDS that the QVC LightStim (which should be in my mailbox as I write) produces more heat than some find comfortable. This could be an issue with too much oil.

I really miss having laboratory equipment to test with. We used to do things like tape our sunglasses into the spectrophotometer to determine what wavelengths were blocked and how much light transmission rates were decreased. As expected, product labeling was often misleading and cost was not directly related to effectiveness. Those were fun times! (Note: we did not do this during working hours.)

I ran across this article that I thought was interesting regarding infrared and skin sun damage from UV.

"Infrared Radiation May Protect Skin Against Aging and Damage"

I found it here:

http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_hb6366/is_1_11/ai_n28727126/

The original source cited in the article is the Journal of Investigative Dermatology.

This is the part that I found most interesting:

"Infrared's protective effect emerged almost immediately after exposure and reached a peak 24 hours later. The protection then declines, disappearing after 3 days. Infrared's effect was cumulative. For example, two 30-minute irradiations reduced the number of cells killed by UVA to just 2%. Three irradiations eradicated UVA's effect. Similar results emerged in the studies of UVB."
RussianSunshine
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Thu Dec 16, 2010 5:55 pm      Reply with quote
Kassy_A wrote:


As I said before, "I'm no glamour girl", but I'm fairly confident that I don't look like the typical 60 year old, who has smoked for 46 years. And NO, I haven't had any type of cosmetic procedure at all. I'm having too much fun seeing how well I can hold back the aging clock on my own. If I ever do make that appointment though, I assure you it will be to fix my poor crooked nose, so I can breath through it.. Laughing



Kassy_A, you look amazing!! Your skin is glowing, and you have a sharp elegant jawline!
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