DIY Serum with Alpha Arbutin, HA & Niacinamide Possible?
EDS Skin Care Forums Forum Index » Skincare Tools & Do-It-Yourself Skincare

Wed Aug 25, 2010 6:22 pm

Hello...I've been searching and searching and cannot find a recipe for an Arbutin and/or Niacinamide serum for skin lightening. I am trying to lighten sun damaged skin on my face. I'm fairly new to DIY skin care and suspect I cant just throw this stuff together. I've purchased: Alpha Arbutin, Niacinamide, Hyaluronic Acid and L-Ascorbic acid (for a C Serum). Would anyone be able to help a newbie with which of these could be combined?

I see plenty of DIY recipes for the C-Serum but not the others..anybody know of a resource you could point me to? I've searched here, GOW and other forums and dont know where else to turn.

Thanks!

free skin care · Wed Aug 25, 2010 6:41 pm

Here are descriptions of all but the C along with their solubility (water or oil) and the ph range they should be used at. It takes research of all your ingredients to find what will and will not work together in any formula you choose to make. Smile

From:

http://www.makingcosmetics.com/ingredientsalphabetic-22.html

Description: Alpha-Arbutin (4-Hydroxyphenyl-D-lucopyranoside) is a synthetic and functional active ingredient for skin lightening. Crystalline, white powder. Water-soluble. Stable in the pH range from 3.5-6.5. CAS# 84380-01-8.

Use: Recommended concentration 0.2-2%, add to water phase of formula, best results use product containing Alpha-Arbutin for at least 2-3 months.

Description: Niacinamide is the water-soluble form of niacin, an essential vitamin of the B group, known as vitamin B3. Purity 99-101 %, pH 6-7.5 (5 % water solution). White powder, practically odorless. Easily soluble in water & ethanol, soluble in glycerol. CAS# 98-92-0.

Use: Add to water phase of formula, usual final concentration 1-6 %. For external use only.

Description: Biotechnologically produced from glucose, soy peptone & yeast extract. Hyaluronic acid is a natural polysaccharide (large sugar molecule) that occurs in various tissues (skin, synovial fluids of joints, connective tissues). Responsible for tissue hydration, lubrication, & tissue stability, holds 500 times its own weight of water. White powder, no odor. Soluble in water. ph 5-8.5 in 5% aqueous solution. Shelf-life up to 3 years if stored protected from humidity and microbial contamination. CAS# 9067-32-7.

Use: Typically used at 0.1 - 1%. Hyaluronic acid is not readily soluble in water as it binds water very quickly forming a gel. Hyaluronic acid needs to be carefully sprinkled into the water under constant high-speed stirring (preferably with a hand mixer or vortex mixer). The mixture starts then thickening quickly and becomes a gel. At the point no additional hyaluronic acid can be added as there is no water left for hyaluronic acid to be dissolved in (additional hyaluronic acid would only form lumps).

free skin care · Wed Aug 25, 2010 7:22 pm

Hi Sterling!
I have used a DIY lightening serum with Alpha Arbutin, Niacinamide, Licorice, Wildberry Extract, Aloe and SKB. I am still working out the most effective percentages of each - but I am liking it so far.

As far as a C serum, I would use one of the versions that are posted on the DIY thread. I have used Kassy's recipe and had really good results. Since vitamin C requires a certain ph to be effective, I just would rather keep that one simple. That's just my 2 cents! Smile

I am going to try some Hyaluronic acid with coffeberry and green tea extract next.

I hope that helps!

Thu Aug 26, 2010 6:35 am

Thanks guys! Looks like I can use the 1% HA as a base an add 4-5% AA and 1% Niacinamide. I'm going to try this and then make a separate C serum with the recommended Kassie recipe. Hopefully this is right.

Fri Mar 18, 2011 4:25 am

erg wrote:

Hi Sterling!
I have used a DIY lightening serum with Alpha Arbutin, Niacinamide, Licorice, Wildberry Extract, Aloe and SKB. I am still working out the most effective percentages of each - but I am liking it so far.

I am going to try some Hyaluronic acid with coffeberry and green tea extract next.

I hope that helps!

How interesting! I would love to make a serum with those ingredients- how did you go with formulating percentages ERG?

free skin care · Fri Mar 18, 2011 4:51 am

Not erg,

You can find the recommended percentages, solubility, correct ph of each ingredient on most all sites that sell the DIY ingredients.

http://www.lotioncrafters.com

http://www.makingcosmetics.com

http://www.gardenofwisdom.com

http://www.bulkactives.com

http://www.skinactives.com

those are a few of the main ones, also check the recipe index here at EDS, there are supplier sites listed there as well as an ingredient information listing of sites where you can really research what you need to know to formulate properly. Good luck and enjoy. Smile

Sun Mar 20, 2011 5:01 am

Thanks DM,

After a little bit of reading I think I might go with 5% Niacinamide and 4% Glucosamine to even out my skin tone address red blotchy patches.

Probably in a HA + Aloe base. Haven' yet decided whether I want a penetration enhancer yet...

I would love to throw Alpha Arbutin in the mix but I read taht their optimum pHs are too different to work properly together

free skin care · Sun Mar 20, 2011 6:40 am

myfunnyvalentine wrote:

Thanks DM,

After a little bit of reading I think I might go with 5% Niacinamide and 4% Glucosamine to even out my skin tone address red blotchy patches.

Probably in a HA + Aloe base. Haven' yet decided whether I want a penetration enhancer yet...

I would love to throw Alpha Arbutin in the mix but I read that their optimum pHs are too different to work properly together

The Niacinamide is also soothing to the skin as well as helping with pigmentation so great choice.
Alpha Arbutin works also, but you are correct you would need a seperate serum for that, if your skin is sensitive it MAY be irritating as well.

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