question about diy C E Ferulic emulsifier & solvent
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Sun Apr 15, 2012 2:29 pm

hi,

been using some sort of vit C serum for a while. recently i got a whole new batch of ingredients from lotioncrafter and having some problems mixing them up. i got:

- ultra-fine ascorbic acid
- Map -magnesium ascorbyl phosphate
- Mixed Tocopherols T50, Natural Vitamin E
- ferulic acid
- butylene glycol (to dissolve the ferulic--don't drink so no vodka)
- oliwax LC (flakes) to emulsify (not a fan of the fermented kelp)

i disolve the Cs in water; separately the ferulic in butylene glycol, and then add the E+oliwax (heated to mix); then mix all together. however the wax seems to resolidify and not mix.
any thoughts/suggestions?

thank you!

free skin care · Sun Apr 15, 2012 11:10 pm

you would have to heat up the water phase too before you add the oil phase and let it cook down slowly.. you should have bought poly 80 as an emulsifier, way easier to use....

also fermented sea kelp is not an emulsifier, it's a moisturizer and it provides nutrition to the skin...

Tue Apr 17, 2012 6:31 pm

thanks for the input daler
i got the oliwax because it said it was well suited for serums. most of the other stuff (on lotioncrafters) had 'linen spray' as the best-suited for use. live and learn. will try the poly 80 next. in the meantime someone (i accidentally posted this twice and a couple of people responded to the other post) said aloe vera should work as an emulsifier (?) so maybe i'll try that next.

free skin care · Tue Apr 17, 2012 7:00 pm

denham wrote:

thanks for the input daler
i got the oliwax because it said it was well suited for serums. most of the other stuff (on lotioncrafters) had 'linen spray' as the best-suited for use. live and learn. will try the poly 80 next. in the meantime someone (i accidentally posted this twice and a couple of people responded to the other post) said aloe vera should work as an emulsifier (?) so maybe i'll try that next.

You are welcome.. and No aloe vera is not an emulsifier, it can be a cheaper alternative to fermented sea kelp though

free skin care · Tue Apr 17, 2012 9:10 pm

Denham you would be best using one of the tried and tested recipes because others have eliminated the emulsifiers or other ingredients that just don't work and have taken into consideration things like pH requirements. MAP and L-AA have totally different pH requirements and are tough to formulate with together.

Kassy_A's, Fawnie's DragoN's recipes are very well thought of on EDS and other forums. Kassy's can be found in the Recipe Index sticky here on EDS, DragoN's and Fawnie's are mostly on Skincaretalk forums but some older ones here too IIRC.
http://www.skincaretalk.com/atype/0/Recipes
As a new formulator if you wish to amend these you are likely to have the most success making a single substitution not several. Neither sea kelp bioferment nor aloe vera are emulsifiers, they are humectants and there to make the percentages and texture work.

free skin care · Tue Apr 17, 2012 9:22 pm

free skin care · Tue Apr 17, 2012 9:46 pm

Another worthwhile read would be:

For Vitamin C Serum DIYers

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=30503

Wed Apr 18, 2012 7:41 pm

thanks again, dark moon.
will avoid mixing LAA & MAP in the same formulation in the future. could I still apply them to the skin at the same time/in relatively rapid succession? I've also mixed tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (oil-soluble C) in my emu oil, and usually apply that while the LAA serum hasn't completely absorbed. Bad idea? I'm looking for the most bang by combing all these forms of C but now i'm concerned that they might be cancelling each other out.

free skin care · Wed Apr 18, 2012 9:47 pm

denham wrote:

thanks again, dark moon.
will avoid mixing LAA & MAP in the same formulation in the future. could I still apply them to the skin at the same time/in relatively rapid succession? I've also mixed tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (oil-soluble C) in my emu oil, and usually apply that while the LAA serum hasn't completely absorbed. Bad idea? I'm looking for the most bang by combing all these forms of C but now i'm concerned that they might be cancelling each other out.

Hi denham,

I am a keep it simple girl, but here is my latest routine. I use OCM so not including that.

AM

CEF DIY serum
Burnout SS
(sometimes use of Walgreen's AHA cream) it is very light, between serum and SS

PM
Retin A
Just added CHAS serum (skin actives has MAP)
Topped off with my Tetra C oil blend

I am using all of the C's (there are others) but I am layering a few at night no issues!

I gave some CP's a go for about 9 mo. to a year and nothing bad but nothing good so never repurchased.

Another new addition is the LightStim, other than the usual plumping, glow and softness it is way to early to say much yet.

HTH
Very Happy

free skin care · Wed Apr 18, 2012 9:56 pm

I should add I have layered LAA serum under Tetra C oil blend in the past without any issues at all! Very Happy

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