Skin Actives Vitamin C Serum 20% Ascorbic Acid (L), pH 2
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free skin care · Tue May 01, 2012 4:37 pm

I just got the May 2012 Skin Actives newsletter in my inbox. They are marketing a new product: Vitamin C Serum with 20% Ascorbic Acid (L), pH of 2.
It also has Feluric acid and Phloretin.

Quote:

Ingredients:
Serum: Water, Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid, Ferulic Acid, Phloretin, Pomegranate Seed (Punica granatum) Oil, Tocotrienols, Vitamin E Oil (Alpha-D-Tocopherol), Astaxanthin, Lycopene, Lutein, Alpha Lipoic Acid, Beta Carotene, Xanthan Gum, Citrus Essential Oils, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbic Acid.
Powder: Ascorbic Acid (L) (Vitamin C), Lemon (Citrus limon) Extract, Orange (Citrus sinensis) Extract.

Usage: Add Powder Mix to Serum and shake well. Keep refrigerated. Use a small amount on the face and neck, wherever your skin is in need of exfoliation and renewal, keeping away from eyes.

I guess knowing the % Feluric acid and Phloretin would help figure out how effective it is.

What do you think about it? Do you notice anything concerning? Does it look promising?

They also carry Ascorbic Acid (L)- http://www.skinactives.com/Ascorbic-Acid--L-Vitamin-C.html
Ascorbyl Palmitate - http://www.skinactives.com/Ascorbyl-Palmitate-Vitamin-C.html
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phophate - http://www.skinactives.com/Magnesium-Ascorbyl-Phosphate-MAP-Vitamin-C.html
And the new product, Vitamin C Serum - http://www.skinactives.com/Vitamin-C-Serum-Ascorbic-Acid-L.html

Which one to go with?...

free skin care · Tue May 01, 2012 6:34 pm

Generally it looks ok to me, except for the citrus EOs. They can make your skin photosensitive, so you wouldn't want to use this in the morning before getting sun exposure. Some people can't tolerate EOs at all if they have sensitive skin.

The astaxanthin is a nice touch, in fact it looks like they add their antioxidant booster ingredients in this. Bet it has an orangish color to the serum.

free skin care · Tue May 01, 2012 7:17 pm

Yeah I don't understand why the citrus EOs to what looks like a good Vit.C/antioxidant serum.

I think it could be irritating at least for my skin.

free skin care · Tue May 01, 2012 7:23 pm

brierrose wrote:

Yeah I don't understand why the citrus EOs to what looks like a good Vit.C/antioxidant serum.

I think it could be irritating at least for my skin.

It makes my a bit nuts that they are added to many daytime products, but even many good sunscreens have them added in? My only guess is they are in a minuscule amount and may not cause problems for most people. Confused

free skin care · Tue May 01, 2012 7:58 pm

Are citrus essential oils that main ones that cause sensitivity?
I have a natural anti-aging night time serum that has Jasmine essential oil and Palmarosa essential oil. So far I haven't noticed any ill effects.
They claim the following:
PALMAROSA OIL ESSENTIAL OIL:

Anti-septic

Helps retain moisture in the skin

Relaxes muscles and nerves

JASMINE ABSOLUTE ESSENTIAL OIL:

Helps heal scars

Anti-septic

A powerful anti-depressant

http://www.mojospa.com/product/FO00002/Ambrosia-Anti-Aging-Night-Serum

free skin care · Tue May 01, 2012 8:06 pm

I guess I found the answer:
http://www.healthcentral.com/skin-care/c/742375/54158/photosensitive

This article claims that only cold-pressed citrus essential oil causes photosensitivity...
The ingredient list of the Skin Actives Vit C serum does not state whether it's cold pressed or not however. I'll email the company.

fitgineer wrote:

Are citrus essential oils that main ones that cause sensitivity?
I have a natural anti-aging night time serum that has Jasmine essential oil and Palmarosa essential oil. So far I haven't noticed any ill effects.
They claim the following:
PALMAROSA OIL ESSENTIAL OIL:

Anti-septic

Helps retain moisture in the skin

Relaxes muscles and nerves

JASMINE ABSOLUTE ESSENTIAL OIL:

Helps heal scars

Anti-septic

A powerful anti-depressant

http://www.mojospa.com/product/FO00002/Ambrosia-Anti-Aging-Night-Serum

free skin care · Wed May 02, 2012 12:01 am

Given that many people find L-AA serums of pH ~3 irritating and that the pH scale is logarithmic and that much irritation/ inflammation is invisible, I'd be more worried about the pH than the essential oils and about the limiting effect it would have on the rest of your skincare routine. I don't see the point in using a product with the same pH as lemon juice, when there are gentler yet effective forms of vitamin C to bolster your daily L-AA 'dose' if you are so inclined.

free skin care · Wed May 02, 2012 4:49 am

This product comes with a tube of LAA powder and a bottle of base serum.

http://www.skinactives.com/Vitamin-C-Serum-Ascorbic-Acid-L.html

Its says that:

**You may control the amount of acidity by choosing how much powder to add to the serum. The full tube will be provide a 20% Ascorbic Acid content.**

free skin care · Wed May 02, 2012 4:59 am

Most Essential Oils are steam distilled not cold pressed to extract as much of the oil as possible. (there are two other common methods one is by using Solvents for extraction, last is making absolutes a whole different process)

Angelica and all citrus oils (includes bergamont) make the skin more sensitive to ultraviolet light. Do not go out into the sun with these oils on your skin.

A reliable source about Essential Oils online is:

http://www.auracacia.com/auracacia/acindex.html

and:

http://www.anandaapothecary.com/

free skin care · Wed May 02, 2012 5:46 am

I just got my newsletter. I think the base looks great, to be honest. I don't like the eo's in the powder, but I would consider using the base as a stand alone product!

free skin care · Wed May 02, 2012 6:31 am

The recommended pH of an effective C serum is between 2.0 and 3.5 for LAA.

free skin care · Wed May 02, 2012 10:17 am

How would you use the base by itself?
Aren't you losing significant actives if not using the powder as well?
Just curious Smile

Thanks!

rileygirl wrote:

I just got my newsletter. I think the base looks great, to be honest. I don't like the eo's in the powder, but I would consider using the base as a stand alone product!

free skin care · Wed May 02, 2012 10:23 am

What would you recommend instead of this? Something that would be just as effective without the possibility of irritation?
Thank you! Smile

Firefox7275 wrote:

Given that many people find L-AA serums of pH ~3 irritating and that the pH scale is logarithmic and that much irritation/ inflammation is invisible, I'd be more worried about the pH than the essential oils and about the limiting effect it would have on the rest of your skincare routine. I don't see the point in using a product with the same pH as lemon juice, when there are gentler yet effective forms of vitamin C to bolster your daily L-AA 'dose' if you are so inclined.

free skin care · Wed May 02, 2012 10:35 am

fitgineer wrote:

How would you use the base by itself?
Aren't you losing significant actives if not using the powder as well?
Just curious Smile

Thanks!

Hi fitgineer. The only active you are losing by not putting the powder in it is the LAA. I don't care for eo's, and I would buy a another LAA powder and add that in if I wanted a C serum. Not sure what you mean by how to use it by itself, but if I am understanding, I would just apply it like any other serum, probably in the morning and use sunscreen on top of it. It has some nice ingredients in the base.

free skin care · Wed May 02, 2012 10:52 am

rileygirl wrote:

I just got my newsletter. I think the base looks great, to be honest. I don't like the eo's in the powder, but I would consider using the base as a stand alone product!

It looks like the EO's are in the serum Riley..

Serum: Water, Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid, Ferulic Acid, Phloretin, Pomegranate Seed (Punica granatum) Oil, Tocotrienols, Vitamin E Oil (Alpha-D-Tocopherol), Astaxanthin, Lycopene, Lutein, Alpha Lipoic Acid, Beta Carotene, Xanthan Gum, Citrus Essential Oils, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbic Acid.

Powder: Ascorbic Acid (L) (Vitamin C), Lemon (Citrus limon) Extract, Orange (Citrus sinensis) Extract.

In any event I would guess it is in the neighborhood of 2 drops, which would probably do no more than scent the product a little.

The citrus extracts in the powder aren't harsh at all in my experience..

I'm going to buy this one. I love the ingredients, and have no problem with the low pH.

I think it's an outstanding kit. And the affordability, ($15.50/1oz) almost makes it not worth purchasing those individual products, if you aren't hell bent on DIY in general.

I love that phloretin is in there as well, for the increased UV protection it provides, when teamed up with C & E..

http://www.skinactives.com/Vitamin-C-Serum-Ascorbic-Acid-L.html

free skin care · Wed May 02, 2012 10:58 am

I just wanted to know if you would add other actives to the base instead of the powder. Looks like Skin Actives has about 3 types of Vit C actives you can use as add-ons (see my first post on the thread).
And would you use the serum in the morning even though you'd add LAA to it?
Thanks for replying!

rileygirl wrote:

fitgineer wrote:

How would you use the base by itself?
Aren't you losing significant actives if not using the powder as well?
Just curious Smile

Thanks!

Hi fitgineer. The only active you are losing by not putting the powder in it is the LAA. I don't care for eo's, and I would buy a another LAA powder and add that in if I wanted a C serum. Not sure what you mean by how to use it by itself, but if I am understanding, I would just apply it like any other serum, probably in the morning and use sunscreen on top of it. It has some nice ingredients in the base.

free skin care · Wed May 02, 2012 11:18 am

Kassy_A wrote:

It looks like the EO's are in the serum Riley..

Serum: Water, Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid, Ferulic Acid, Phloretin, Pomegranate Seed (Punica granatum) Oil, Tocotrienols, Vitamin E Oil (Alpha-D-Tocopherol), Astaxanthin, Lycopene, Lutein, Alpha Lipoic Acid, Beta Carotene, Xanthan Gum, Citrus Essential Oils, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbic Acid.

Powder: Ascorbic Acid (L) (Vitamin C), Lemon (Citrus limon) Extract, Orange (Citrus sinensis) Extract.

In any event I would guess it is in the neighborhood of 2 drops, which would probably do no more than scent the product a little.

Thank you. Totally missed that!

free skin care · Wed May 02, 2012 11:21 am

fitgineer wrote:

I just wanted to know if you would add other actives to the base instead of the powder. Looks like Skin Actives has about 3 types of Vit C actives you can use as add-ons (see my first post on the thread).
And would you use the serum in the morning even though you'd add LAA to it?
Thanks for replying!

rileygirl wrote:

fitgineer wrote:

How would you use the base by itself?
Aren't you losing significant actives if not using the powder as well?
Just curious Smile

Thanks!

Hi fitgineer. The only active you are losing by not putting the powder in it is the LAA. I don't care for eo's, and I would buy a another LAA powder and add that in if I wanted a C serum. Not sure what you mean by how to use it by itself, but if I am understanding, I would just apply it like any other serum, probably in the morning and use sunscreen on top of it. It has some nice ingredients in the base.

The others you would need to formulate from a recipe:

Ascorbyl Palmitate is a Vitamin C ester that is best used in formulations with an oily base. It is a great antioxidant to add to your formulation.

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate will be transformed by the skin enzymes into Ascorbic Acid (vitamin C), an anti-oxidant and a cofactor for an enzyme crucial in the synthesis of collagen (prolyl hydrolase). As an anti-oxidant agent, vitamin C scavenges and destroys reactive oxidizing agents and other free radicals. Because of this ability, it provides important protection against damage induced by UV radiation (and the DNA mutations and cancer that may result from it).

Vitamin C also improves skin elasticity, decreases wrinkles by stimulating collagen synthesis, reduces redness, promotes wound healing and suppresses cutaneous pigmentation. Because body control mechanisms limit the amount of ingested vitamin C available to skin, topical anti-oxidant therapy becomes an efficient way to target vitamin C directly to the skin. This is the "real" ester-C, a more stable form of ascorbic acid and will stimulate collagen synthesis.

LAA is water soluble.

free skin care · Wed May 02, 2012 11:30 am

Just to clarify, when you say "the "real" ester-C", are you referring to LAA?...
Thank you Smile

DarkMoon wrote:

fitgineer wrote:

I just wanted to know if you would add other actives to the base instead of the powder. Looks like Skin Actives has about 3 types of Vit C actives you can use as add-ons (see my first post on the thread).
And would you use the serum in the morning even though you'd add LAA to it?
Thanks for replying!

rileygirl wrote:

fitgineer wrote:

How would you use the base by itself?
Aren't you losing significant actives if not using the powder as well?
Just curious Smile

Thanks!

Hi fitgineer. The only active you are losing by not putting the powder in it is the LAA. I don't care for eo's, and I would buy a another LAA powder and add that in if I wanted a C serum. Not sure what you mean by how to use it by itself, but if I am understanding, I would just apply it like any other serum, probably in the morning and use sunscreen on top of it. It has some nice ingredients in the base.

The others you would need to formulate from a recipe:

Ascorbyl Palmitate is a Vitamin C ester that is best used in formulations with an oily base. It is a great antioxidant to add to your formulation.

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate will be transformed by the skin enzymes into Ascorbic Acid (vitamin C), an anti-oxidant and a cofactor for an enzyme crucial in the synthesis of collagen (prolyl hydrolase). As an anti-oxidant agent, vitamin C scavenges and destroys reactive oxidizing agents and other free radicals. Because of this ability, it provides important protection against damage induced by UV radiation (and the DNA mutations and cancer that may result from it).

Vitamin C also improves skin elasticity, decreases wrinkles by stimulating collagen synthesis, reduces redness, promotes wound healing and suppresses cutaneous pigmentation. Because body control mechanisms limit the amount of ingested vitamin C available to skin, topical anti-oxidant therapy becomes an efficient way to target vitamin C directly to the skin. This is the "real" ester-C, a more stable form of ascorbic acid and will stimulate collagen synthesis.

LAA is water soluble.

free skin care · Wed May 02, 2012 11:36 am

Ester C refers to any derivative of LAA that is oil soluble. Other derivatives are water soluble.

ETA:

Reading this may help in distinguishing the differences of the most common forms of C and the derivatives:

http://bulkactives.com/blog/index.php/2011/05/vitamin_c_and_vitamin_c_derivatives/

free skin care · Wed May 02, 2012 11:40 am

So, if I understand this correctly, the most powerful derivative of LAA is Ascorbyl Palmitate?

If so, why wouldn't they use this in their Vit C serum?

DarkMoon wrote:

Ester C refers to any derivative of LAA that is oil soluble. Other derivatives are water soluble.

free skin care · Wed May 02, 2012 11:43 am

summer2004 wrote:

This product comes with a tube of LAA powder and a bottle of base serum.

http://www.skinactives.com/Vitamin-C-Serum-Ascorbic-Acid-L.html

Its says that:

**You may control the amount of acidity by choosing how much powder to add to the serum. The full tube will be provide a 20% Ascorbic Acid content.**

Indeed, but adding less rather defeats the object of purchasing this product over any other of the numerous 10-15% CE ferulic serums on the market. Being 20% is surely the USP?

free skin care · Wed May 02, 2012 11:53 am

When we consider that L-AA loses potency as it sits in a bottle, starting with 20% is probably a good thing for those who can tolerate it...

Shooo, my old hyde could probably take 30%... Laughing

(J/K!)

free skin care · Wed May 02, 2012 11:55 am

Kassy_A wrote:

When we consider that L-AA loses potency as it sits in a bottle, starting with 20% is probably a good thing for those who can tolerate it...

Good point!

free skin care · Wed May 02, 2012 12:10 pm

Kassy_A wrote:

When we consider that L-AA loses potency as it sits in a bottle, starting with 20% is probably a good thing for those who can tolerate it...

Shooo, my old hyde could probably take 30%... Laughing

(J/K!)

LOL. I know I have seen a 25% sold someplace so 30% isn't that far a leap! Laughing

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