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Total Newbie...Please help with HA moisturiser formula!
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sintija
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Fri May 18, 2012 3:47 pm      Reply with quote
Hello,

First of all, thanks to everyone for reading this post - your help and advise is very, very much appreciated!! I am a TOTAL newbie to this whole world, which I must admit I find fascinating and I intend to learn more.

However, I need your help please. I am doing 60% glycolic acid peel on my legs and the post peel cream that I am supposed to be using comes in a very small jar and it costs quite a bit to order new... So I figured I might make my own!! Here's the ingredients as it's typed on the label: Aloe Vera Gel, Hyaluronic Acid, Shea Butter, Mango Extract, Mango Seed Oil, Olive Oil, Almond Oil, Avocado Extract, Grape Seed Oil, Aloe Barbadensis, Aloe Leaf Juice, Vitamin E, Vitamin C.

And I purchased following items: Aloe Vera Gel, Hyaluronic Acid, Shea Butter, Mango butter (which is Mango Seed Oil), Olive Oil, Almond Oil, Avocado Oil, Grape Seed Oil, Aloe Leaf Juice, Vitamin C, Glycerin, Emulsifying wax.

Can you please advise on the formulation and the procedure of making this cream??? I am very, very grateful in advance and my legs will be equally thankful to you! Smile) xx Thanks!!
sintija
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Mon May 21, 2012 12:16 pm      Reply with quote
Please... Could someone help? :/ Thanks!
DarkMoon
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Mon May 21, 2012 12:36 pm      Reply with quote
I only make serums and oil blends, but if you look in the recipe index:

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=11902

Then scroll down to the following (in red) you should get some idea of how you make creams:

Hydrating Gels, Creams &Lotions

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Firefox7275
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Mon May 21, 2012 3:29 pm      Reply with quote
Welcome! Smile What equipment do you have? You will need scales, hand blender/ electric whisk, thermometer, double boiler from kitchen pans and bowls, jar(s) which can be sterilised (glass is ideal). Which form of vitamin C have you purchased? Is it low or high molecular weight hyaluronic acid?

TBH you are making your first attempt at DIY overly complicated. Most of those oils and butters don't have any particular healing or barrier repair properties. You also don't need three different humectants. Olive, almond and avocado are all relatively similar in that they are all rich sources of oleic acid; shea and mango seed oil are also similar in that they are rich in stearic and oleic acids. You could therefore make life simpler using just one butter and one oil.

The original formula was presumably preserved with tocopherols (vit E) but if you are making this at home in non-sterile conditions you need a proper preservative (vit E is an antioxidant). The only exception is if you plan only to make enough for a single use, in which case you would really need scales accurate to 0.01g. You may also need sterile distilled water to dissolve the hyaluronic acid and vitamin C.

As DarkMoon suggests IMO you are best finding a tried-and-tested recipe with an oil phase and a water phase using a few of the ingredients you have, then adapting for subsequent batches as you gain in confidence. You may find e-wax plus butters makes more of an ointment consistency which is uncomfortable to spread on tender skin, so I would certainly look for a recipe that includes e-wax rather than trying to substitute it for another emulsifier.

Good luck! Very Happy

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Sensitivity, forehead pigmentation & elevens, nose & chin clogged pores. Topicals: Aloe vera, squalane, lactic acid, Myfawnie KinNiaNag HG: Weleda calendula, Lanolips, Guinot masque essentiel, Flexitol Naturals, Careprost. Gadgets: Vaughter dermarollers, Lightstim.
sintija
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Wed May 23, 2012 1:31 pm      Reply with quote
Hi guys Smile thank you so much for taking time to reply to me!!

Errmm... I have normal kitchen scales, hand blender, that funny frothing whisk, thermometer, don't have jars but was planning to use my empty Loreal cream jar (plastic). I bought vitamin C from Sarah at owndoc (it came in a bag in powder form; label says 20 000 mg L-Acsorbic Acid) and I haven't got a clue about molecular weight of the HA I bought! I got it on ebay from forever young (it doesn't allow me to post the link; seller describes it as "Pure 100% Hyaluronic Acid Serum - No Fillers or Thickeners").

I suspected that it might be an overkill but I really just copied all ingredients on the label and then ordered them. I've received it all now... What should I get for preservative?? I guess I can figure it out from other recipes, e.g. Kassy's.

I honestly haven't got a slightest clue what to do. I thought it would be as easy as mixing/whisking it all up. I've read tons of your guys posts and to be frank they have actually confused and intimidated me more than I started with! You know so much and talk about different types of this and that and I'm just trying to make a cream for fixing my legs post peels and now I think I've over-estimated my ability to do that. I don't even know where to start!

I guess I'll keep cruising through recipes and try to find something that is more or less suitable.

Thanks so much for advice Firefox!! I hope one day I'll be able to report back how did it go.

Sincerely,
S.
DragoN
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Wed May 23, 2012 9:29 pm      Reply with quote
Quote:
What should I get for preservative??


Preservatives

Read the rest of the blog...you will learn far more there than here.

Then go here

Some decent little formulas.

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If you make, first do no harm, your Law, you will never strike the first blow and will be known as a man of peace who can fight like ten tigers, a Human in the act of Being. There is no greater rank than this. Ashida Kim on War.~Cellese~AnteAge Serum and Accelerator, DermaRoller ,MyFawnie AA2G serum, KNN G ForceUltrasound., SEA, ChrySun 25% ZnO
Firefox7275
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Wed May 23, 2012 10:03 pm      Reply with quote
Are you in the UK? If so me too. Sounds like you have most things you need! Very Happy You can totally do it, DIY is not really so different from cookery. IMO the key is to start out with easy things or an existing recipe, get your confidence. One option is to start out simply with an oil/ butter blend which won't need any preservative or emulsifier because there is no water. You can then apply that as it is (will be greasy) or you can use it as your 'oil phase' in making a cream.

Ah I thought you meant hyaluronic acid powder: assuming the serum is gel-like it will be the regular stuff. If it is very watery it will be low molecular weight. The vitamin C you have is the acidic form, that will burn if you use it it over peeled skin unless you use a very small amount. it's the last ingredient in the cream you are trying to emulate tho. You mustn't heat the vitamin C, it may oxidise (go off). Phenoxyethanol is a decent preservative and should be fairly easy to source.

There are some relatively simple recipes with e-wax here, ignore the essential oils stage.
http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-emulsifying-wax-uk.htm
Batch calculator here if you want to change quantities
http://skinessentialactives.blogspot.co.uk/p/batch-size-calculator-percentage.html

You will be really proud of yourself when you are done. ((hugs))

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Sensitivity, forehead pigmentation & elevens, nose & chin clogged pores. Topicals: Aloe vera, squalane, lactic acid, Myfawnie KinNiaNag HG: Weleda calendula, Lanolips, Guinot masque essentiel, Flexitol Naturals, Careprost. Gadgets: Vaughter dermarollers, Lightstim.
sintija
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Sat May 26, 2012 8:27 am      Reply with quote
Hello!! Smile Nice to hear from you Foxy! Yes, I'm living in the UK. North London, to be precise. You?? Smile I'll laugh if you're anywhere near! Haha.

Right, I will check out all the other posts and attempt a very basic cream oil-based cream recipe. I'm half-way through my baby jar (it's that small!) of stuff I got for my legs so really need to get the "cookin" going!! I will let you know how I do. I dare not ask anymore questions to you guys before I have done more homework first.

On the side note though, thanks for being here! You make many people's lives a lot better. If not better, then surely a lot more fun! Wink) x

Lots of hugs to all of you,
(HAPPY WEEKEND!!)
S.
sintija
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Sat May 26, 2012 8:44 am      Reply with quote
DragoN wrote:
Quote:
What should I get for preservative??



Read the rest of the blog...you will learn far more there than here.

Then go

Some decent little formulas.


Thank you very much - will certainly spend some reading it through!
DragoN
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Sat May 26, 2012 10:52 am      Reply with quote
sintija,

That blog should be required reading before joining any skin care site. Will save you from wasting a great deal of time and money on bogus actives.

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If you make, first do no harm, your Law, you will never strike the first blow and will be known as a man of peace who can fight like ten tigers, a Human in the act of Being. There is no greater rank than this. Ashida Kim on War.~Cellese~AnteAge Serum and Accelerator, DermaRoller ,MyFawnie AA2G serum, KNN G ForceUltrasound., SEA, ChrySun 25% ZnO
Firefox7275
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Sat May 26, 2012 10:37 pm      Reply with quote
sintija wrote:
Hello!! Smile Nice to hear from you Foxy! Yes, I'm living in the UK. North London, to be precise. You?? Smile I'll laugh if you're anywhere near! Haha.


I spent my teens in London but live in Yorkshire for now. Hope you have settled on a recipe - feel free to post your plan and ask more questions, everyone is confused/ apprehensive when they start out. Wink Agree with DragoN about the Barefacedtruth blog.

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Sensitivity, forehead pigmentation & elevens, nose & chin clogged pores. Topicals: Aloe vera, squalane, lactic acid, Myfawnie KinNiaNag HG: Weleda calendula, Lanolips, Guinot masque essentiel, Flexitol Naturals, Careprost. Gadgets: Vaughter dermarollers, Lightstim.
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