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Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline (DPHP) and/or Algae Extract?
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egyptiangoddess
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Sat May 26, 2012 1:39 am      Reply with quote
Has anyone here used the ingredient Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline? Also known as DPHP or sometimes referred to as Sepilift or Skinlift. I tried looking it up and only found stuff from Skinactives saying it doesn't work due to something wrong with the chemistry of it, but I didn't really understand. I've read people have great benefits from this ingredient. I'm very interested in it and would like to know if anyone has any experience with it or have had any benefits from it? I've read it can stimulate type lll collagen but don't know if it's true or not. I don't really understand if this is a peptide or what, but apparently it has collagen stimulating and lifting/firming properties.

I'm also interested in Algae Extract and have heard a lot of good things about this ingredient. Anyone use Algae Extract? What are the benefits you have noticed using Algae Extract topically?

I ask and am interested because I've got my eye on Osea Advanced Protection Cream, which has both of these ingredients. So I'm just wondering if anyone uses these ingredients or knows anything about them. (Any comments about this particular cream are also welcome! Smile)

TIA if anyone can help Smile
DragoN
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Sat May 26, 2012 3:43 am      Reply with quote
I like algae extracts, different algae = different extracts and properties. Nice fillers.

Re: DPHP , I use the AHYP. N- acetyl derivative, readily taken up and used. Improves moisture content and all that fun stuff.

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egyptiangoddess
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Sat May 26, 2012 4:11 am      Reply with quote
Thank you DragoN! Smile I didn't know there was another form of DPHP. Interesting! Do you think it really stimulates collagen?

I suppose "Algae Extract" is quite a broad description of the ingredient then if there are different forms of algae in general. I didn't think of that. Perhaps I'll try emailing the company to see what exact form of algae is used. Then I can better research it. If they'll tell me that is! Laughing
egyptiangoddess
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Sat May 26, 2012 4:19 am      Reply with quote
Oh, I think it's Red Algae extract. Or "Gigartina Red Marine Algae". I think that form has Astaxanthin.
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Sat May 26, 2012 6:19 am      Reply with quote
Here's what Paula Begoun has to say about algae: http://www.cosmeticscop.com/cosmetic-ingredient-dictionary/definition/56/algae.aspx

Cosmetics cop is a good place to find out about ingredients.
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Sat May 26, 2012 6:22 am      Reply with quote
Quote:
Do you think it really stimulates collagen?
Not exactly. It's more along the lines of inhibitory. But not of collagen, the breakdown thereof.

Insignificant amts have been shown to be incorporated, but it's more closely tied to the estradiol mediated mechanism, a sort of negative feedback loop.

As we age...things go south, literally and some things speed up as a result, and AHYP sort of bungs up the gears of the things that got sped up. in non scientific terms

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egyptiangoddess
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Sat May 26, 2012 6:38 am      Reply with quote
VeronicaM wrote:
Here's what Paula Begoun has to say about algae: http://www.cosmeticscop.com/cosmetic-ingredient-dictionary/definition/56/algae.aspx

Cosmetics cop is a good place to find out about ingredients.


Thank you VeronicaM. Yes I've already read that and am incredibly familiar with Paula Begoun/Cosmetics Cop but thanks lol. Smile

Thank you DragoN. Although I wouldn't have minded a scientific explanation if you were willing to give it! Very Happy But thank you for your reply! Very Happy
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Sat May 26, 2012 6:40 am      Reply with quote
If you are interested in Osea products you may PM Avalange as she is the forum expert on Osea. She uses the products extensively and could certainly help you with that particular skin care line.
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Sat May 26, 2012 6:44 am      Reply with quote
DragoN wrote:
Quote:
Do you think it really stimulates collagen?
Not exactly. It's more along the lines of inhibitory. But not of collagen, the breakdown thereof.

Insignificant amts have been shown to be incorporated, but it's more closely tied to the estradiol mediated mechanism, a sort of negative feedback loop.

As we age...things go south, literally and some things speed up as a result, and AHYP sort of bungs up the gears of the things that got sped up. in non scientific terms


What is the estradiol mediated mechanism? Please explain. Sounds very interesting, as I firmly believe that estrogen depletion is closely tied to skin aging, more so than even the sun, imo.
egyptiangoddess
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Sat May 26, 2012 6:50 am      Reply with quote
If you have any studies etc. about the DPHP/AHYP DragoN, I wouldn't mind seeing them also if you didn't mind.
DragoN
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Sat May 26, 2012 6:52 am      Reply with quote
Kohn RR, Schnider SL. Collagen changes in aging skin. In: Balin AK, Kligman AM, editors. Ageing and the Skin. New York: Raven Press, 1989.
Selmanowitz VJ, Rizer RL, Orentreich N. Ageing of the skin collagen. In: Finch CE, Hayflick L, editors. Handbook of the biology of ageing. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1977.
Brincat M, Kabalan S, Studd JW, Moniz CF, de Trafford J, Montgomery J. A study of the decrease of skin collagen content, skin thickness, and bone mass in the postmenopausal woman. Obstet Gynecol 1987; 70(6):840-845.
Brincat M, Moniz CJ, Studd JW, Darby A, Magos A, Emburey G et al. Long-term effects of the menopause and sex hormones on skin thickness. Br J Obstet Gynaecol 1985; 92(3):256-259. Hall DA. The ageing of connective tissue. London: Academic Press, 1976.
Brincat M, Moniz CF, Kabalan S, Versi E, O'Dowd T, Magos AL et al. Decline in skin collagen content and metacarpal index after the menopause and its prevention with sex hormone replacement. Br J Obstet Gynaecol 1987; 94(2):126-129.
Castelo-Branco C, Duran M, Gonzalez-Merlo J. Skin collagen changes related to age and hormone replacement therapy. Maturitas 1992; 15(2):113-119.
Shuster S, Black MM, McVitie E. The influence of age and sex on skin thickness, skin collagen
and density. Br J Dermatol 1975; 93(6):639-643.
Barnes MJ, Constable BJ, Morton LF, Royce PM. Age-related variations in hydroxylation of lysine and proline in collagen. Biochem J 1974; 139(2):461-468.
Murai A, Miyahara T, Shiozawa S. Age-related variations in glycosylation of hydroxylysine in human and rat skin collagens. Biochim Biophys Acta 1975; 404(2):345-348. Bailey AJ, Robins SP, Balian G. Biological

Wink

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egyptiangoddess
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Sat May 26, 2012 6:53 am      Reply with quote
leeleedeedee wrote:
If you are interested in Osea products you may PM Avalange as she is the forum expert on Osea. She uses the products extensively and could certainly help you with that particular skin care line.


Thank you leeleedeedee. I am aware avalange uses Osea. I think skincareaddicted uses the APC as well. Not sure if skincareaddicted is still around though. I'm not sure if avalange comes here often anymore either but perhaps I will try to PM her.
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Sat May 26, 2012 6:57 am      Reply with quote
egyptiangoddess wrote:
leeleedeedee wrote:
If you are interested in Osea products you may PM Avalange as she is the forum expert on Osea. She uses the products extensively and could certainly help you with that particular skin care line.


Thank you leeleedeedee. I am aware avalange uses Osea. I think skincareaddicted uses the APC as well. Not sure if skincareaddicted is still around though. I'm not sure if avalange comes here often anymore either but perhaps I will try to PM her.


avalange pops by every so often and skincareaddicted if in the US this is Memorial Day weekend and many go away for the Holiday weekend?

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leeleedeedee
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Sat May 26, 2012 7:22 am      Reply with quote
egyptiangoddess...La Mer uses algae extract in many of their products. However, that is not a very popular skin care line on this forum. It seems to work only for me Laughing
egyptiangoddess
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Sat May 26, 2012 7:27 am      Reply with quote
Thank you DragoN, though I was hoping for a more in depth discussion about it to be honest. (I know you're well versed regarding actives/ingredients as I've seen your posts in the fantastic actives thread Very Happy) I presume I can access those studies if I copy/paste into google? (I can't copy/paste as I'm not on a computer, that's why I'm asking lol)

DarkMoon wrote:
egyptiangoddess wrote:
leeleedeedee wrote:
If you are interested in Osea products you may PM Avalange as she is the forum expert on Osea. She uses the products extensively and could certainly help you with that particular skin care line.


Thank you leeleedeedee. I am aware avalange uses Osea. I think skincareaddicted uses the APC as well. Not sure if skincareaddicted is still around though. I'm not sure if avalange comes here often anymore either but perhaps I will try to PM her.


avalange pops by every so often and skincareaddicted if in the US this is Memorial Day weekend and many go away for the Holiday weekend?


Ok thanks DM. I posted a question to avalange in that dewy thread but I don't think she's been around since then.
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Sat May 26, 2012 9:38 am      Reply with quote
leeleedeedee wrote:
egyptiangoddess...La Mer uses algae extract in many of their products. However, that is not a very popular skin care line on this forum. It seems to work only for me Laughing


It works very well for me, too. I love Creme de la Mer (the original cream). Another new line using algae extract, and a line getting rave reviews, is Algenist. I'm loyal to my La Mer, but Algenist is a somewhat lower priced alternative and the Algenist samples I tried were quite amazing.
egyptiangoddess
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Sat May 26, 2012 9:50 am      Reply with quote
leeleedeedee, I missed your post! Thank you! Have you noticed any sorts of benefits in particular with the la mer? Same goes to EthelM also Smile Anything you can attribute to the algae I mean? (I think the la mer is just like a basic cream and the algae is the star ingredient right?)

I haven't heard of Algenist, thank you EthelM. I'll look that up.
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Sat May 26, 2012 10:16 am      Reply with quote
egyptiangoddess wrote:
leeleedeedee, I missed your post! Thank you! Have you noticed any sorts of benefits in particular with the la mer? Same goes to EthelM also Smile Anything you can attribute to the algae I mean? (I think the la mer is just like a basic cream and the algae is the star ingredient right?)

I haven't heard of Algenist, thank you EthelM. I'll look that up.


Yes, Creme de la Mer eradicates fine surface facial lines for me. I haven't any on my face, even when I'm not wearing Creme de la Mer. It also very effectively plumps my skin, making it appear more youthful. While I realize that is the goal of all moisturizers, it has not been my experience with most mositurizers, at least not to the marked effect of Creme de la Mer. As well, when my skin is red, irritated or broken out, the CdlM heals my skin remarkably fast, unlike other moisturizers. I attribute the quick healing to the algae. That said, I don't use any of the other La Mer products, just the original creme.
Because Algenist has a similar effect on my skin (although I can't speak for fine surface lines, just the healing and plumping), my suspicion is these benefits come from the algae and other sea-based ingredients, like seaweed, etc.
(Also, to add, I don't think Creme de la Mer is *just* basic cream with added algae products. CdlM also has many other beneficial ingredients aside from seaweed and algae, and I think CdlM works well because of the interaction between all the ingredients...but yes, the sea-based additives are certainly the major part of CdlM.)
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Sat May 26, 2012 10:23 am      Reply with quote
Thank you so much EthelM! I really have no idea what the effects of algae are so that really helps! Very interesting about the healing and plumping.
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Sat May 26, 2012 10:28 am      Reply with quote
leeleedeedee wrote:
egyptiangoddess...La Mer uses algae extract in many of their products. However, that is not a very popular skin care line on this forum. It seems to work only for me Laughing


Celebrities seem to love La Mer. I heard that Jennifer Lopez uses it all over her body, and I heard that Uma Thurman put it over her belly when she was pregnant.

Paula Begoun, however, isn't crazy about La Mer. She gave it a mediocre rating on her website.
egyptiangoddess
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Sat May 26, 2012 10:49 am      Reply with quote
Yes not surprising is it lol. However, Paula B. probably hasn't used algae herself. (Regardless of la mer.) As for celebrities, Dita Von Teese uses la mer.
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Sat May 26, 2012 10:54 am      Reply with quote
egyptiangoddess wrote:
Yes not surprising is it lol. However, Paula B. probably hasn't used algae herself. (Regardless of la mer.) As for celebrities, Dita Von Teese uses la mer.



Here is the ingredient list for those interested:

Ingredients in Creme De La Mer

Seaweed (Algae) Extract, Mineral oil Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Extract, Microcrystalline Wax, Lanolin Alcohol, Sesame Seed Oil, Eucalyptus Oil, Magnesium Sulfate, Sesame Seed, Medicago sativa (alfalfa) seed powder, Helianthus Annuus (sunflower) Seedcake, Prunus amygdulus dulcis (sweet almond) seed meal, Sodium Gluconate, Potassium Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Calcium Gluconate, Magnesium Gluconate, Zinc Gluconate, Paraffin, Tocopheryl succinate, Niacin, Beta-carotene, Decyl oleate, Aluminium distearate, Octyldodecanol, Citric acid, Cyanocobalamin, Magnesium stearate, Panthenol, Limonene, Geraniol, Linalool, Hydroxycitronellal, Citronellol, Benzyl salicylate, Citral, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, Alcohol Denat., Fragrance (Parfum).

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Sat May 26, 2012 10:57 am      Reply with quote
VeronicaM wrote:
leeleedeedee wrote:
egyptiangoddess...La Mer uses algae extract in many of their products. However, that is not a very popular skin care line on this forum. It seems to work only for me Laughing


Celebrities seem to love La Mer. I heard that Jennifer Lopez uses it all over her body, and I heard that Uma Thurman put it over her belly when she was pregnant.

Paula Begoun, however, isn't crazy about La Mer. She gave it a mediocre rating on her website.
egyptiangoddess
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Sat May 26, 2012 10:59 am      Reply with quote
Oh it IS the first ingredient. I wonder what they mean by seaweed algae extract though. And urgh...lots of photosensitizers and irritants. Confused And alcohol and fragrance.
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Sat May 26, 2012 11:02 am      Reply with quote
EthelM
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As well, when my skin is red, irritated or broken out, the CdlM heals my skin remarkably fast, unlike other moisturizers.

The Zinc gluconate in the mix is noted for that as well as several of the other salts. Certainly the algae doesn't hurt as itself is packed with micro nutrients and trace elements.

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