Help with SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF Gel Dupe
EDS Skin Care Forums Forum Index » Skincare Tools & Do-It-Yourself Skincare

Tue Oct 22, 2013 1:22 am

Hi Everyone
I was hoping someone can assist me with trying to create a replacement of SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF Gel but without all the chemically stuff I don’t need?

I would love to be rid of the silicone but still maintain that gel consistency that doesn’t have that drying effect if at all possible. My skin is also quite sensitive and I don’t react well to oils generally. Ive read also that denaturated alcohol can cause free radical damage and blocks the benefits of the phloretin-not sure how true this is but thats what got me thinking to try and make my own of this. Not to mention that this product is crazy expensive!!!

Any help with recipes/comments would be appreciated. I have no idea how to put this together and I know the ph is an issue with DIY Vit C.

Ive got the ingredients
Aqua / Water / Eau, Dipropylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Undecane, Bis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone, Alcohol Denat., Ascorbic Acid, Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tridecane, Phloretin, Lauryl Peg-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Peg-10/15 Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, Ferulic Acid, Ruscus Aculeatus Extract / Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract, Caffeine, Disodium Edta, Sodium Hydroxide

Thanks in advance for the help

Wed Oct 23, 2013 12:22 am

Go for organic skin care products. They work really well.

free skin care · Wed Oct 23, 2013 7:23 am

Okay, I was checking out the ingredients in this product. Almost all the ingredients are petroleum by products, thickeners, and 'slip', not to mention a whopping amount of alcohol. As for the rest:

Capric triglyceride ( coconut oil, blocks pores)
The phloretin is an antioxidant
Ferulic vitamin c (10% in this product)
Ruscus anti irritant ( which you need after putting the rest of this stuff on your poor face)
Caffeine antioxidant

You will easily find recipes on this forum for antioxidant and vit c serums, hyalauronic acid helps create the gel consistency you're after.

free skin care · Wed Oct 23, 2013 4:37 pm

Just like most of skinceuticals' formulas, there are a ton of solvent/penetration enhancers in here. The only natural-y penetration enhancers are water, glycerin and ethanol, and ethanol is too drying to use in huge amounts.

You can get dipropylene glycol from most supply websites that have a lot of fragrance oils for sale, because it is mostly used by home DIYers as a fragrance dispersant. It also has the lowest irritancy potential of the glycols. (That info is from a long time ago, though. There might be some new wave glycols I've never heard of yet.) According to this abstract, it is good for stabilizing ferulic acid too: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22152493

So use it! Lol. Butylene glycol is used in a lot of very expensive brands as the primary solvent. I guess it must be really good at driving those actives down into the skin.

You can ignore all the dimethicone and add whatever oil or occlusive you want.

free skin care · Wed Oct 23, 2013 5:17 pm

So much easier (and nicer) to just whip up your own... For instance;

Vitamin C,E,FA & Phloretin (Oct 23, 2013)

15% L-Ascorbic Acid
1% Vitamin E
.5% Ferulic Acid
2% Phloretin
1% Ethyl Alcohol (to solubize FA & Phloretin)
3% Oils
5% of 1% Hyaluronic Acid Serum
3% E-Wax
1% Polysorbate 80%
.5% Preservative
68% Distilled Water

This will work out to a lovely lotiony type serum. (white/opaque). Check pH while in the mixing process, and add a tiny bit of citric acid to get the pH to 3 or below if needed.

Make 4oz... You'll want to let your face, neck, chest, hands and arms drink it in. No need to refrigerate. It will remain perfect until it's gone.

Sun Nov 03, 2013 7:36 am

Thanks guys for the help!!! Very Happy

Thanks Kassy for the recipe, just had a question though, when you say preservative-do you mean another besides the citric acid or can I just use that?

TIA

free skin care · Sun Nov 24, 2013 9:02 am

Kassy, is there any chance you'll elaborate on this recipe, perhaps even dumb it down a little? I assume I should dissolve the phloretin and FE in the alcohol, and the vit C in the water, and melt the wax into the oils. Where does the HA solution go? Just added in when everything is mixed together? Help, pretty please?

Mon Nov 25, 2013 4:00 am

Hi there,

You can find Kassy's full instructions on this thread - you might find it useful to go through the other DIY C's in the sticky too.

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?p=392693#392693

HTH

free skin care · Sun Dec 01, 2013 1:34 pm

Damsel in Distress222 wrote:

Thanks guys for the help!!! Very Happy

Thanks Kassy for the recipe, just had a question though, when you say preservative-do you mean another besides the citric acid or can I just use that?

TIA

You need a broad spectrum preservative, in anything that is water based.. Optiphen and Germaben 2 are good ones. Citric Acid is used to adjust the pH (if necessary). It can help with 'stability', but is not a true preservative. Citric Acid and Vitamin E are antioxidants..

free skin care · Sun Dec 01, 2013 1:52 pm

MyrnaLoy wrote:

Kassy, is there any chance you'll elaborate on this recipe, perhaps even dumb it down a little? I assume I should dissolve the phloretin and FE in the alcohol, and the vit C in the water, and melt the wax into the oils. Where does the HA solution go? Just added in when everything is mixed together? Help, pretty please?

Sure thing!

Vitamin C,E,FA & Phloretin (Oct 23, 2013)

15% L-Ascorbic Acid
1% Vitamin E
.5% Ferulic Acid
2% Phloretin
1% Ethyl Alcohol (to solubize FA & Phloretin)
3% Oils
5% of 1% Hyaluronic Acid Serum
3% E-Wax
1% Polysorbate 80%
.5% Preservative
68% Distilled Water

You can solubize FA & Ferulic Acid in either alcohol or propylene glycol. Use whichever you prefer, at 1%

The instructions I included in this "similar" recipe, should be helpful to you;

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/redirect.php?u=http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?p=6512834#6512834

***Note; you can add the actives when the temp is at 100F or below (you don't have to wait for 80F)***

free skin care · Mon Dec 02, 2013 5:09 am

Any suggestions for a one-stop shopping website for all of the ingredients? Thanks.

free skin care · Mon Dec 02, 2013 3:02 pm

The only supplier I know of that has phloretin for sale is skinactives.

free skin care · Wed Dec 04, 2013 7:19 am

Kassy_A wrote:

MyrnaLoy wrote:

Kassy, is there any chance you'll elaborate on this recipe, perhaps even dumb it down a little? I assume I should dissolve the phloretin and FE in the alcohol, and the vit C in the water, and melt the wax into the oils. Where does the HA solution go? Just added in when everything is mixed together? Help, pretty please?

Sure thing!

Vitamin C,E,FA & Phloretin (Oct 23, 2013)

15% L-Ascorbic Acid
1% Vitamin E
.5% Ferulic Acid
2% Phloretin
1% Ethyl Alcohol (to solubize FA & Phloretin)
3% Oils
5% of 1% Hyaluronic Acid Serum
3% E-Wax
1% Polysorbate 80%
.5% Preservative
68% Distilled Water

You can solubize FA & Ferulic Acid in either alcohol or propylene glycol. Use whichever you prefer, at 1%

The instructions I included in this "similar" recipe, should be helpful to you;

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/redirect.php?u=http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?p=6512834#6512834

***Note; you can add the actives when the temp is at 100F or below (you don't have to wait for 80F)***

Thank you, Kassy. I use one or another of your C serums pretty much head to toe to great effect, but there's always that little voice in my head prodding me to try something different...

Mon Feb 24, 2014 7:05 pm

Hello,
I am new to this website and have been reading the posts for almost a month, wow, a ton of info!! I have made the c serums from Kassy and loooove them! I can't get over how knowledgeable on this stuff you are! Smile

I've had to send some down the drain but think I have the hang of it now. I started making them for my sister too and she loves hers! I was curious if Kassy or any of you smart girls I see posting here had a recipe for these wonderful ingredients I have been reading about:

L-Ascorbic Acid & MAP (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate)
Hyaluronic Acid
Glutathione
Sea Kelp Bioferment
Oat Beta Glucan
Tocopherols & Tocotrienols (different forms of vitamin e?)
Ferulic Acid,
Polysorbate 80 and Optiphen.

I saw these on a website and would loooove to make my own, one for me and one for my sis! I have so many questions but will start there for now. There are so many wonderful ingredients out there it is unbelievable and I can't believe I've paid out so much money for expensive crap! can I say that?! I'm not good with percentages yet so teaspoon type measurements would be awesome, if possible!

free skin care · Mon May 19, 2014 6:49 pm

Kassy_A wrote:

So much easier (and nicer) to just whip up your own... For instance;

Vitamin C,E,FA & Phloretin (Oct 23, 2013)

15% L-Ascorbic Acid
1% Vitamin E
.5% Ferulic Acid
2% Phloretin
1% Ethyl Alcohol (to solubize FA & Phloretin)
3% Oils
5% of 1% Hyaluronic Acid Serum
3% E-Wax
1% Polysorbate 80%
.5% Preservative
68% Distilled Water

This will work out to a lovely lotiony type serum. (white/opaque). Check pH while in the mixing process, and add a tiny bit of citric acid to get the pH to 3 or below if needed.

Make 4oz... You'll want to let your face, neck, chest, hands and arms drink it in. No need to refrigerate. It will remain perfect until it's gone.

BUMP.

Based on the very good feedback I have received on this recipe, I figured it was worth a bump for you DIY'ers who might have missed it the 1st time around.

It's truly a sin to pay retail, for ANY vitamin C product.

free skin care · Sat May 24, 2014 5:29 pm

Thanks, Kassy, for the bump! What do you usually use for the Hyaluronic Acid Serum? Can the recipe be used effectively without the Hyaluronic Acid Serum? Just curious.

free skin care · Sat May 24, 2014 7:32 pm

cm5597 wrote:

Thanks, Kassy, for the bump! What do you usually use for the Hyaluronic Acid Serum? Can the recipe be used effectively without the Hyaluronic Acid Serum? Just curious.

You could substitute SKB or aloe gel in a pinch, but the 1% HA Serum does make it lovelier..

Here's the link to the 1% HA Serum DIY.. The recipe makes 12oz, and is a wonderful staple to have on hand. I keep mine in the fridge, and decant as needed. Wonderful stuff!

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/redirect.php?u=http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?p=6474113#6474113

I get my HA powder at Pure Bulk, and highly recommend it. Be sure to follow the directions, especially about using VERY cold water. You'll love it!

Sun May 25, 2014 9:15 pm

This recipe is definitely on my list to try now!!

free skin care · Sat May 31, 2014 8:30 am

Kassy_A wrote:

cm5597 wrote:

Thanks, Kassy, for the bump! What do you usually use for the Hyaluronic Acid Serum? Can the recipe be used effectively without the Hyaluronic Acid Serum? Just curious.

You could substitute SKB or aloe gel in a pinch, but the 1% HA Serum does make it lovelier..

Here's the link to the 1% HA Serum DIY.. The recipe makes 12oz, and is a wonderful staple to have on hand. I keep mine in the fridge, and decant as needed. Wonderful stuff!

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/redirect.php?u=http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?p=6474113#6474113

I get my HA powder at Pure Bulk, and highly recommend it. Be sure to follow the directions, especially about using VERY cold water. You'll love it!

Thank you so much, Kassy! This is excellent information. You are the best Smile

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