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Formulating for severely dehydrated & broken skin - advi
EDS Skin Care Forums Forum Index » Skincare Tools & Do-It-Yourself Skincare
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500miles
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Sun Dec 14, 2014 6:46 pm      Reply with quote
Hello. Newbie Question! My skin is uncomfortably tight, dry and flaky & covered in a million fine lines Sad Especially in winter. It hurts when I smile, when I frown... I'm in my mid 30's but I look so much older... I can understand the difference between dry and dehydrated skin (I think I have both) and the properties of humectants, emollients & occlusives. A long time ago, I read some very bad things about hyaluronic acid which really made sense at the time and adding dry climate (in wintertime) to that... I was against humectants in general. I tried applying oils immediately after cleansing, I tried pure squalene, I tried formulating my own simplistic face creams (coconut / argan / rosehip oils with floral waters and sorbitan olivate / cetearyl olivate & grapefruit seed extract = pH 5.5)... And although, my extremely sensitive skin doesn't react as much, within a couple of hours, the oils (depending on which I'm using) just sit on top and I'm all dried up! My skin suffers the most in my working environment. I'm so frustrated I have tried reconsidering HA / niacinamide / PCA / glycerin / urea etc. etc. but then I'll read something and I'm scared off them again... Do I have any other options? Would lipophilic actives that repair the skin barrier (such as ceramides and phytosterols) be what was missing from my oily regimen to prevent transepidermal water loss? Should I give that practice a second try? I would really appreciate your input... thank you and sorry for the long post Smile
softly
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Sun Dec 14, 2014 8:45 pm      Reply with quote
Hello 500miles

Are you able to explain why you're against humectants?

It pays to question scare tactics espoused on the internet or in magazines that aren't scientifically supported and find some good, solid, scientific facts instead.

You might find a wealth of reliable information on all sorts of ingredients for the home crafter over at the Swiftcraftymonkey blog, aka 'Point of Interest'.

I personally find that when my elbows become very dry to the point of cracking (they're the only parts of me that tend to), they don't accept straight oils or butters very well - and they don't tend to like commercial products at all - but they'll happy absorb as much as I want to give them if I just provide them with something that's rich in humectants first. It's as though the water/humectants help the skin relax a little to better accept the oils or butters I want to 'feed' it.

Another alternative might be to use a spray bottle, fill it with either rose water or distilled water, and spray your skin so that it's damp before applying whatever oil/butter/product you feel happy using.

I like to spray mine with a little rose water before applying a moisturizing product (I use a home made cold cream to moisturize stubborn areas like elbows) and that seems to help enable much faster and better absorption.

Hope this helps a little Smile
denisiel
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Mon Dec 15, 2014 9:30 pm      Reply with quote
Sounds like your moisture barrier is disrupted. I would exfoliate well with a gentle AHA exfoliant than apply some serums with antioxidants, squalene and hyaluronic acid, slather on a rich bland moisturizer (such as Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Mask or Atopalm) and then seal it with rosehip oil and maybe even Aquaphor or Vaseline. Reapply moisturizer and sealant several times throughout the day and continue for at least two weeks. It takes time for skin to heal itself.

Cut out any product with drying alcohols, alkaline products, soaps and fragrances.

Personally, I find argan, jojoba and coconut oils drying. Avocado, rosehip and sesame oils make good sealants.

Glycerin can be drying if overused. HA is fine as long as you layer on a rich moisturizer.

Fish oil/krill supplements are also good for skin moisture.

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Dry skin but not many wrinkles; 50s and Asian; Topicals: Vit C, tretinoin, hydroquinone & azaleic acid for melasma; Likes: SK-II, Shiseido, Shu Uemura, Skinceuticals, Obagi, P50, Sunday Riley, Hada Labo, facial oils
shooterfish
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Tue Dec 16, 2014 8:47 pm      Reply with quote
Immediately after you bathe or shower just blot dry areas so you aren't soaking wet and apply shea butter/cocoa butter to your skin while it is damp. (it's important because it'll lock in moisture) Also make sure you are drinking PLENTY of water as this will help moisturize your skin from the inside out. I go for lotions and things that are too watery and are thick and a little oily because that seems to stay on the skin longer. Also may think of trying some eczema products as they might help as well.

Good luck!
wenning
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Sat Jul 27, 2019 5:17 pm      Reply with quote
I think your cuticle is damaged. Should stop facial cleanser, and then apply simple oil to protect the skin, the skin needs self-repair, can not frequent to clean it, facial cleanser will make your skin drier and drier, only use clean water to wash your face, adhere to a period of time, should be effective.
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