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Mon Apr 25, 2005 9:26 am  |
I am very intrigued about trying some of the DIY recipes, especially for vitamin-c. I was just about to re-purchase the Skinceuticals 15% vitamin-c and was wondering if I should just make it myself. Besides the cost factor, what is the main difference, if any, between the name brands and the DIY vitamin-c.
Just curious 
Thanks, Sheisha |
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Wed Apr 27, 2005 8:26 am |
Go to the Personal Forulator WEB site. They have some info on how to prepare mixes. Basically the L-Ascorbic acid is the active form is water soluble and is not easy to stabilize in a mix (should use soon if you make yourself). The palmitate is oil soluble readily absorbed and converts to the active form in your skin. I have both Skinceuticals serum 20 and Cellex-C and I make my own using the palmitate. I think it is just a matter of cost/convenience and whether some ingredients bother your skin (and what kind of feel you are looking for on your skin e.g. oily, dry, watery, creamy). I think that they all work well. The reason I am going to some homemade things is that with separate products I can vary each component on my skin separately and more easily tell which things go together. I do not mix Vit C treatment with the peptides or copper treatments for example. The peptides will denature in a very acid environment.
Goos Luck. |
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GSR13
New Member
 
Joined: 28 Apr 2005
Posts: 9
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Thu Apr 28, 2005 6:42 pm |
Well, according to SkinCeuticals (and others), the only form of Vit. C that the body will actually use is L-Ascorbic Acid. None of the derivatives will actually garner results and the body basically rejects them.
That said, L-Ascorbic Acid is very unstable and it takes an acidic base to get it to penetrate. If you do not use a proper vehicle to carry the 'C' to the cellular level, then you basically just have the 'C' on the epidermal layer. This offers no benefit as far as photodamage or anti-aging, but definately helps with fighting UV Rays.
Supposedly, SkinCeuticals stabilizes their 'C' but doesn't really discuss how they do it. They do use Ferulic Acid in the CE Ferulic product to stabilize it, but they don't discuss that in depth. Nor do they discuss how the stabilize it in products that do not contain Ferulic Acid, such as their CE Serum.
CosMedix takes a unique approach and they sale L-Ascorbic Acid in a "powder". Then, you simply cocktail that in with your serum, which has a low pH, and that transports it to the dermal layer. Or, you can cocktail it with your sunscreen and get better protection on the epidermal layer.
You can also check out Revenir. This product is a handheld sprayer that produces functional water on demand. The sprayer is expensive, but the technology is excellent. The solution has an indefinate shelf life, until you activate it and I know it works extremely well.
Personally, I would just avoid derivatives and make sure whatever product contains the 'C' actually has an acidic base.
And for the record, many companies like to discuss 'C' and how they get great results. But there are only two companies that have ever shown me a true penetration study, SkinCeuticals and Revenir. Everyone else says they have one, but no one else has produced. I just haven't asked for one from CosMedix, but it is on my list of things to do! |
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Fri Apr 29, 2005 5:04 am |
If you do a search on MEDLINE using vitamin C or ascorbyl palmitate AND skin absorption you'll see studies comparing transport and conversion to L-ascorbic in the skin. They conclude that at least the palmitate is absorbed and almost unitarily converted to the active form. Different carriers and skin pretreatment do affect the degree of absorption for all compounds. In general it is harder to transport water soluble compounds into the skin and an emulsion of linoleic acid (use grapeseed oil) and ethanol improves absorption of most compounds through the "horny" layer. Yes pH does matter. For the acids and AHAs relatively low is good but it is a bit more complicated. For the peptides a pH below 4 will degrade their performance so these can not be mixed with things best used in a more acidic environment.
P.S. Everyone should use the MEDLINE search engine (available at most libraries)to look up info on ingredients and their action. Here you will find peer reviewed studies (and which companies submit to peer review). Much on the WEB is simply wrong. It is true that there is little info on some propietary ingredients. But companies that make claims that their products work while others do not AND do not submit their products for peer reviewed testing are suspect to me. |
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Tue Aug 23, 2005 7:54 pm |
[quote="GSR13"] CosMedix takes a unique approach and they sale L-Ascorbic Acid in a "powder". Then, you simply cocktail that in with your serum, which has a low pH, and that transports it to the dermal layer. Or, you can cocktail it with your sunscreen and get better protection on the epidermal layer.[/quote]
Personally, I don't really find this concept unique. I believe Agera, Hylunia, Biomedic and Philosophy also has similar/same products all utilising L'ascorbic acid. |
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Tue Aug 23, 2005 8:56 pm |
Sheisha, if you go over to MakeupAlley.com, the board there has many do-it=yourself recipes and info on C on StAmourOwl's notepad. (You just do a member search for that name then look at her notepad.) It is very helpful with recipes but also lists a slew of C brands for consideration as well.
I used skinceuticals C for a while and I think it works just fine. Just too expensive for me. I switched to Cellularskinrx.com's C at a much lower price and still get good results.
I think skinceuticals (though they use water in their solution)stabilizes their L-AA with tyrosine? Stabilization of L-AA is difficult if you have water in the formula. The other C derivatives -like C-Ester, palmitates, etc. do have to be metabolized by your skin and converted into L-AA before they can offer the full-on C benefits that we all look for. That metabolization process lowers the % of C you end up with in your skin. So many companies that use the esters, palmitates, ascorbates need to really pump up the C % so you end up with a decent plasma level in your skin once the metabolization process is done.
Do search Medline and PubMed for research yourself. They are great resources to separate the "wheat from the chaff" if you know what I mean. |
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