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Fri Dec 12, 2008 9:14 pm  |
Dermalogica AGE Smart MAP-15 regenerator
My rating = 4 out of 5
It’s a vitamin C booster / serum in powder-to-cream form.
I used this product over a period of five months. It costs around $110 AUD for 8 grams. A small container, but a little goes a very long way.
What’s good about it? This is the most easily tolerated high-strength vitamin C serum / additive I’ve ever used. Its formulation left me breakout-free, and gave an ‘it’s working’ sting as opposed to a ‘holy mackerel!’ sting. It’s magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP - a derivative of vit C that may be better tolerated than ascorbic acid, but with similar collagen-boosting and skin lightening benefits) formulated in a fine powder. Tap a little out of the container, rub it with your finger and it starts to go creamy. It can be applied directly or mixed into another cream, although I’d think you’d probably need to be sure the base cream had a slightly acidic ph to avoid neutralising it. I used it with the Dermalogica Age Smart dynamic skin recovery spf 30. The little container only holds 8g, but I found that by adding the recommended pea-sized amount to my day cream, each container lasted 2-3 months, and even outlasted the companion 50ml day cream. Unlike most other vit C preparations I've used, it doesn't develop that oxidised smell once applied. This is the most concentrated vit C additive I’ve used that doesn’t make me look like I’ve got first-degree burns or make my skin break out. This is a cool product, allowing you to express your inner alchemist and mix it with other serums for a vit C power punch. A reference I have suggests MAP is good to mix with hyalauronic acid serum.
What’s not so good about it? My objection relates to vit C generally. I’ve found it very difficult to notice any long-term improvement, despite using a vitamin C additive in one form or another for at least 18 months. Yes, I acknowledge it’s kind of strange to rate something as 4 out of 5 when it hasn't delivered huge improvement. However, I’m surrendering to the research that demonstrates that vit C stimulates collagen synthesis and trusting that all this vit C infusion is slowing the skin ageing process down a bit somehow.
If you’re still looking for your ideal vitamin c serum or booster because the other formulations aren’t strong enough, are too irritating or make you break out, this may be the answer.
Ingredients: water, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, propylene glycol, polymethylsilsesquioxane, silica dimethyl silylate, c9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate, camellia sinensis leaf extract, glycerin, urea, saccharide hydrolysate, magnesium aspartate, glycine, alanine, creatine, sodium hyalauronate, glucosamine hci, algae extract, yeast extract, saccharide isomerate, phospholipids, hydrogenated lecithin, phenoxyethanol |
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I'm 40 years old with normal / combo skin, fighting a legacy of bad genes and a somewhat irresponsible but fun series of poor lifestyle choices through my 20s (ok, maybe it might have stretched a bit longer than that...) |
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Mabsy
Moderator
 
Joined: 17 Aug 2003
Posts: 9644
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Thu Dec 18, 2008 3:41 pm |
| This sounds quite interesting, particularly the powder-to-cream formulation. I'm slowly running out of my CSRx C serum and I'm looking for something new to try. For comparisons sake, would you mind letting me know what other vit C serums (or additives) you have used before? TIA! |
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45, NW20, combination skin |
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Thu Dec 18, 2008 4:51 pm |
| Hi Mabsy, in terms of C serums, I've used a two on a long-term basis - Ultraceuticals C10 (made me break out a bit), and have been on SkinMedica (ascorbic acid, and apparently 15%, very tolerable) for a couple of months now. I also had a fortnight's dalliance with Ultraceuticals Ultra C Sheer Facial Cream (20%) some time ago and it burned like crazy. I've also tried a few samples of things like EmerginC, but don't think I used them long enough to make a reasonable comment. I think I'll probably get this MAP15 Regen again when my SkinMedica supply runs out. |
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I'm 40 years old with normal / combo skin, fighting a legacy of bad genes and a somewhat irresponsible but fun series of poor lifestyle choices through my 20s (ok, maybe it might have stretched a bit longer than that...) |
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havana8
Moderator
Joined: 09 Sep 2005
Posts: 3451
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Thu Dec 18, 2008 5:31 pm |
I love your reviews ej as they give me an opportunity to consider lines I seen around but have not tried before.
I wonder what else is in this for the cost to be so high? |
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Mabsy
Moderator
Joined: 17 Aug 2003
Posts: 9644
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Thu Dec 18, 2008 6:20 pm |
Thank you, ejthomas. I've tried the Ultraceuticals 20% C cream and was not a fan. I actually used up the whole tube but only because I didn't want to waste it. I couldn't wait to finish it so I could move on to something else. It didn't sting but I hated the texture of it and I had better results with Skinceuticals (which oxidises really quickly though). I found the EmerginC was good, but far too sticky for my liking.
The MAP15 Regen sounds good, I might try that next after the CSRx is finished. If it lasts 2-3 months, that makes the price reasonable I guess. |
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45, NW20, combination skin |
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Thu Dec 18, 2008 9:53 pm |
Mabsy, yes, that Ultraceuticals 20% is a bit like vaseline, isn't it?
And hi, havana. Thanks. I don't know why it costs so much for so little weight. I'm just glad they publish the ingredients list so you can at least assure yourself it doesn't contain weird, bad stuff like rhesus monkey bits  The AGE Smart packaging is pretty superb, though. The silver MAP-15 Regen canister weighs more than its contents. Which isn't really saying much, I know. |
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I'm 40 years old with normal / combo skin, fighting a legacy of bad genes and a somewhat irresponsible but fun series of poor lifestyle choices through my 20s (ok, maybe it might have stretched a bit longer than that...) |
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Mon Feb 23, 2009 12:09 pm |
| I just got a sample of this yesterday and can't wait to give it a try. I could not resist and had to see the powder turn to a cream and it does have a weird consistancy. It seems as though you have to use a lot of the powder to get enough cream to cover your face. So it seems like your getting less product than you think. |
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Thu Feb 26, 2009 2:15 pm |
| I like your review. It is easy to follow. It's detailed enough, too. I'd not realized you have to use Vit C products for 18 months before seeing results. No wonder I have never seen results. I gave up before 3 months. |
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Tue Nov 17, 2009 7:19 pm |
| the price is just jump from $85 to $110,i am glad that i ordered one last month. |
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36,asian,freckles,dry to normal skin type |
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Fri Jun 18, 2010 6:33 pm |
| I have been using the MAP 15 over the crows area for a few months, hoping just to thicken the skin there. I love to use it as the powder to emulsion format is lovely. (I aim it directly onto the crows area.) Unfortunately, I can't say that I am noticing the skin looking any thicker. I use it after spraying with Ole Henricksen red tea spray and letting it dry a little. |
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Born in 1952. Blonde, very good skin. A few noticeable wrinkles. |
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Sat Jun 19, 2010 9:52 am |
| Great review ejthomas : ) I love lots of other dermalogica products and this one sounds great too. I've only just purchased a medik8 vit c serum (will be doing a review soon), but think I may try this dermalogica one after : ) |
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Sat Jun 19, 2010 2:48 pm |
| butterfliesandflowers wrote: |
| Great review ejthomas : ) I love lots of other dermalogica products and this one sounds great too. I've only just purchased a medik8 vit c serum (will be doing a review soon), but think I may try this dermalogica one after : ) |
Can't wait to see your review of that; very interested in their claims about Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate! |
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