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Wed Dec 06, 2006 8:41 pm  |
Vitamin C Primer:
Vitamin C – the How and Why:
This post is manly a guide for those using Vitamin C products, to help you use them effectively. This is not really a DIY Recipe guide post. I think a DIY Vitamin C product can be made effectively, but it can be tricky, and would require a different type of post then the material covered here. 
I will touch on some DIY concerns, to help one judge effectiveness of homebrew products. However this is not exhaustive enough for a good understanding that would be needed. And I recommend additional research; I have added some links at the end of the document to assist DIY formulators. Though they are only the “tip of the iceberg”
Lots of good info out there on that subject, not covered here.
General Information
There are many forms of vitamin C. Vitamin C is an AHA Acid (Citric Acid) but also a well known anti-oxidant. There are many effective antioxidants, so Vit. C is not the only or best one. But it is a good one, especially when paired with others such as E.
Vitamin C is well known for its ability to effectively enable the skin to rebuild its collagen fibers.
The most common forms of C found in skin-care products are ascorbic acid, L-ascorbic acid, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, retinyl ascorbate, ascorbyl stearate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.
I will only address the most commonly used, and recommended versions in skincare lines here.
I will list some product links; these are simply for examples of effective product types for compression. Other products may work equally as well. This is just to help one understand the types available. I am not familiar with every brand on the market, so I am listing some I am familiar with as examples. This is not to say others are “bad” or good. Just an example of “some”
Vitamin C, How to buy it
For a Vitamin C product to be effective, percentage, formulation and pH are all a factor. If you buy a commercial product this info should be provided on the label, or in the marketing material. If a commercial product or manufacturer does not provide this info to you, suspect it is less then acceptable. Just because a product is costly, does not guarantee formulation is correct to provide an effective product. You need to investigate a bit, to be a wise consumer.
In general, all forms of Vitamin C or its derivatives should be stored in a cool dark place, in tightly closed small mouthed amber colored jars or opaque contains, with minimal air or light exposure. A large mouthed or clear jar are considered the least preferred packaging method. Pump bottles do let in air, so are also not a recommended package type.
A refrigerator is recommended for most forms except the Professional Solutions Triple C versions. This will maintain stability. Discard product immediately if yellow or yellowish brown, or amber tint appears. Do not use a discolored product on the skin. It can damage the skin.
Purchase clear or white products, without added dyes or yellow colorants so you can adequately see oxidative effects.
Make sure products are not close to, or past their expiration dates, before purchasing.
What It Does
Vitamin C is a very effective topical applied antioxidant, especially when combined with other antioxidants like Vitamin E. There are no good quality studies proving topical Vit C as a wrinkle treatment, or wrinkle preventative. There is a lot of anecdotal reports, and indirect research that indicate topically applied Vit C may improve the appearance of wrinkled skin in some people.
Vitamin C may improve the skin texture, soften fine lines and wrinkles, stimulate collagen growth, lighten freckles and dark pigmentation, repair and prevent photo damage, give skin a rosy glow.
Vitamin C produces positive results in about 50% of the clients. It may also help in slowing skin aging by reducing free radical damage. (this also means 50% have no positive results)
Oral Vitamin C, even in large doses, does not directly impact skins appearance dramatically, though it can help other activities that benefit the skin to work better. (Copper, MSM). 500 – 100 mg of Vitamin C daily is recommended for good skin health, as part of a well rounded diet and supplement program.
Excess Vitamin C in the diet is eliminated through the body’s waste processing system, so higher doses do not really effect the skin positively.
Topical (skin surface) applications deliver a higher concentration of Vitamin C to the skin surface, then one will receive from oral consumption.
This type of application will deliver 20 to 40 times more vitamin C directly to the target skin areas, vs. oral consumption.
Topical Vit C does not absorb or block UV radiation, but can enable the skin to better fight free radical damage from UV exposure. So it works as a good adjunct to a well formulated sunscreen for more effective protection. It is not a sunscreen replacement.
It is absorbed into the cell network and is not affected by swimming, bathing or makeup.
Vitamin C, used correctly can lessen erythema [redness] in skin resurfacing procedures, and can be a helpful addition or an alternative to Retin-A in the treatment of fine wrinkles, and a stimulant to wound healing.
Vitamin Cs antioxidant effects stay in the skin cells for at least 8 -12 hours, and possibly as long as 48-72 hours. Though cell concentration drop over that timeframe.
Topical applications of Vit C must be highly concentrated for best treatment level results; trace amounts will not dramatically impact the skin.
Vitamin C and Stability
Vitamin C has stability issues, making it difficult to work with. Light, heat, metals, humidity, oxygen will all degrade Vit C quickly. Vitamin C is not as stable in water. DIY (Do-It-Yourself) formulations will be more stable with less water content.
Vit C Formulations should not use tap water or plant extracts, because even trace metal ions (often present in plants) when combined with Vitamin C, can be Pro-oxidative to the skin. (cause increase free radical or oxidation damage)
Vitamin C oxidizes easily. Oxidized Vit C applied to the skin can increase Free Radical formation on the skin, creating oxidative damage on the skin surface.
Stabilized versions of Vitamin C degrade slower, however they tend to be very costly, and this only partially limits oxidation.
Because Vitamin C degrades in the presence of UV light, it is often recommended that a “Treatment” product be used in the PM for this reason. However Vit C does absorb into the skin quickly, if you will not be exposed to UV for 15 minutes or so after application, then AM applications are acceptable. This also allows you to benefit most for the Anti-oxitive effects when you will be most exposed to UV damage.
If you are only using C for the anti-oxidative effects (such as how its utilized in many lotions and sunscreens, with low Vit C percentages) then you can apply in the AM, and go outdoors within a few minutes. This would not be for “treatment” level usage, but will provide very good anti-oxidant activity.
Vitamin C sinks into the skin fairly quickly, within 10 to 15 minutes (depending on formulation) and cannot be removed from the cellular layer through normal daily functions such as washing, rubbing or towel drying.
This makes it a wonderful addition to daily sunscreen usage.
Ascorbic acid
Natural ascorbic acid, from plants and fruits is L-ascorbic acid.
Synthetic Ascorbic acid, created in a lab contains two forms; L-ascorbic acid, and D-ascorbic acid. 50/50 ratios of each.
Only L-ascorbic acid is bio-available (usable) to the skin and tissues. D-ascorbic acid is useless in topical application or oral ingestion. It is not harmful in oral vitamin supplements; however it is commonly believed the body discards the D portion, as unneeded.
Cosmetic preparations can include ether natural or synthetic version, either L-ascorbic acid, or the combo of L-ascorbic acid and D-ascorbic acid. If a cream has 10% Ascorbic acid, in the standard Ascorbic form – you will actually only have 5% L and 5% D.
Only 5% actual useable vit C in your product.
Vitamin Supplement powders are generally a combination product, or both L and D ascorbic acid, unless they state “L-ascorbic acid” on the label. There are exceptions such as NOW brand vitamin brand Ascorbic acid powder, which I have been told is 100% L-ascorbic acid.
Special order L only version powders are available online from a variety of sources.
Vitamin supplement tablets and capsules usually contain the combo version of ascorbic acid, along with fillers, binders and other additives making them unsuited to DIY topical formulation. These can make up as much as 25% of the overall pill formulation. This will alter actual usable amounts of Vit C in the supplement.
In fruit, such as an orange, the Vit C is primarily the L form. It stays in the L form as long as it “stays” within the Orange and its tissues. Once juice is squeezed from the fruit, after a few days of storage, some of the L-ascorbic changes to the D-ascorbic form, and eventually balances out to 50%L and 50% D Vitamin C content. So vitamin C levels drop to half, in stored juice verses freshly squeezed juice. Frozen concentrate juice, once thawed and water added, also “degrades” into the same action.
L-ascorbic Acid: (Cellex-C, SkinCeuticals, Professional Solutions)
This is the most potent form, and most bio-available to the skin. (bio-available, = most easily usable, and best penetrating)
Many studies, with good peer review material support this benefit and activity.
L-Ascorbic Acid is an effective anti-oxidant, photo protectrant, skin lightener, effective collagen rebuilder, repairs skin barrier, anti-inflamatory, in correct percentages and pH.
It is unstable in high water formulas.
Most effective at lower pH below 3.5, and higher concentration about 10%-20%.
Levels over 20% do not provide a noticeable positive benefit in most cases, but do increase irritation.. Higher strength products can be used as an effective “mid level” peel strength product. Most people will notice some tingling when this product is first used.
Generally recommended for use only once a day, because of irritation potential. However many “benefit studies” were done with twice daily applications at maximum levels.
Some well formulated vit C products are available around 2% Vit C which creates a milder exfoliating effect, This can be beneficial for rough, and dull skin types. This will not rebuild collagen.
Skins types with hyper pigmentation or melasma conditions can worsen from to much exfoliation, so may prefer to avoid this form of Vit C.
Can be irritating at this level, not suited for sensitive skin types.
Reducing product levels of vit C to 3- 5%, and pH to 5 will provide a product better suited to sensitive skin, but with less dramatic benefits. This version can degrade in about 2 weeks, especially if it has a high water content.
But a good formulation, stored and packaged correctly can last for 6 months or more.
Blending magnesium sulfate with L-ascorbic acid can make this form of vitamin C stable much longer without acidic pH concerns (see blended product info below)
Some commercial products come in a buffered version, which “softens” the acidity, by raising the pH, making it better tolerated by sensitive skin. But this can also limit absorption, which is directly related to acidity, so the product may not be as effective. This is better tolerated by sensitive skin.
For those sensitive to Vitamin C, rather then use a buffered version; go with one of the non-irritating derivatives below. You are likely to have a more effective product without the irritation.
”Cliffs Notes Version”
L-ascorbic is very sensitive to metals and minerals, temperature, oxygen, and light. Becomes unstable faster in a water base. Highly effective for Collagen synthesis.
Good for dull, thick, rough or wrinkled skin. Not well suited to acne prone skin, as irritation can contribute to breakouts. Can be difficult on sensitive skin types.
Unbuffered homemade versions are generally stable for 4 weeks or more. (depending on formula, packaging, storage) Well formulated and packaged and stored correctly can last 6 months or more.
Application order is very pH dependant.
Vitamin C Derivatives:
These are compounds created by chemically, by modifying the Vitamin C molecule. Often called “Vitamin C” also. Derivatives tend to be less expensive, more stable, and less irritating. Some feel these are more effective, more bio-available, or equally effective to the L-ascorbic acid. Others feel they are nothing more the marketing “hype”. There are far less studies available on these variants and blends “Proving” their effectiveness compared to L-ascorbic acid. But anecdotal reports do seem to support their effectiveness in some users.
Ascorbyl Palmate:
Less irritating, and more stable then Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) Fat soluble. Considered Non-acidic. Very good antioxidant. Mildly effective for collagen synthesis unless large amounts are used. Difficult to formulate in high percentages. Good for sensitive skin types. Good on acne prone skin. Good formulations are stable for 6 months.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate:
Non irritating. Very good Collagen synthesis and some studies indicate it is comparable to Vit C at lower concentrations. Very good anti-oxitive effects.
One study shows it may assist in skin lightening. The study concluded that a moisturizer with a 10% concentration of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate "suppressed melanin formation…. The lightening effect was significant in 19 of 34 patients with chloasma or senile freckles and in 3 of 25 patients with normal skin."
Good for, normal, sensitive and pigmented problem skin types. Can be used on acne prone skin, but can aggravate breakouts at first. This should subside after a few weeks.
Less exfoliate activity compared to L-ascorbic acid, so better suited to melasma and hyperpigmentation issues.
May be combined with L-ascorbic acid in the formulation to create a more stable and effective product at a lower total Vit C percentage.
Not effective below 3%. Optimal concentration is 5% for best collagen development. 3%- 5% provides photo protection and some skin lightening.
10% levels can lighten skin best, but few products contain this amount. Stable for 6 months or more.
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmite:
Non irritating, very stable. Early studies seem to indicate that this derivative may produce equal or better collagen synthesis then Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid). Fat soluble, anti-oxidant. Studies are still quite new and limited on this product. Few commercial formulas use it. Optimal concentration seems to be about 3%. Good for sensitive skin, acne prone or pigment problem skin types. Stable for 1 year to 18 months.
Vtamin C Combo Products (Professional Solutions or Diana Yvonne’s Triple C)
These are usually a combo of the Vitamin C (L-ascorbic) and its derivatives. This are promoted to give the benefits of all forms with less irritation, more stability, and less pH sensitivity.
Non irritating. Creates rosy glow effect. May aid in hyper pigmentation lightening and UV damage repair.
Some studies indicate it may help in collagen rebuilding. (Limited to in vitro studies)
Often well suited to all skin types.
Stable at room temperatures, should NOT be refrigerated.
Staple for 3-6 months. This is a 7 pH product, so not pH dependant during application.
Application order and wait times
L-ascorbic acid forms of vitamin C are very pH dependant and affected by skin ph, or pH of other products layered with them.
All vitamin C products work best if applied to clean skin, before any other product. Though It may be applied after AHA or BHA if the formulas and pH will not affect activity or absorption.
Vitamin C absorbs faster into the skin then other exfoliate acids (such as BHA and AHA) since it absorbs faster, you can generally limit your wait time to 10 – 15 minutes. Because it does absorb so fast, it is not normally used as an exfoliate, though it does have some exfoliate activity. If used as a “Pro” level exfoliate, strength and timing are adjusted.
For collagen rebuilding benefits, and other treatment effects, you should always use the wait time, before layering other products.
To use it for its anti-oxidant activity only, pH is not a concern, so wait time is not an issue. Just be aware, you will not utilize the other Vit C benefits when used in this manner.
Not all Vitamin C products have a low pH, some forms of Vitamin C or Vitamin C blends often have a higher pH, so less pH issues concerning layers. You do still use the pH issue as a guide, but the pH levels of your C may be higher then your AHA or BHA products. Wait times still apply.
If using a low pH form of vitamin C, you will need to know the pH of the C product and your other products. You may find you can combine the exfoliates in one step(your BHA or AHA) with your Vit C layers, so creating less wait times. This of course is formula and pH dependant.
The exfoliates (AHA and BHA) work best on clean skin, so they go first if possible
(My previous post on pH and Wait Times for treatment products and acids
http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=18360 )
Application Suggestions:
This is only if you apply your exfoliates and Vitamin C in the same session. You do not need to. You can easily apply one in the AM and one in the PM. Or one on one day, and the alternate on another.
But you will still need the appropriate wait time after each product, before applying the next later step. (30 minutes for acids, 10 minutes or so for Vitamin C)
If AHA, BHA are equal or lower pH then my Vit C product:
If you are using three pH dependant products, that are all a similar thickness formula and pH.
-Professional Solutions 10% Lactic AHA liquid at 1.9 pH, http://www.dianayvonne.com/product/CSE70_4
-5% BHA Salicylic liquid at 1.9 pH
http://www.dianayvonne.com/product/CSE69_4
-and Vitamin C 10% liquid at 2.3 pH.
http://www.dianayvonne.com/product/CSP95
(Remember low to high pH, and thin to thick formulations, Exfoliate first)
Apply your BHA first. (Because it is oil/lip soluble – so penetrates the pore best)
Then immediately apply your AHA liquid (same pH as BHA so will not alter it, but does not penetrate oils as BHA does)
Wait 20 minutes to allow these two products to exfoliate the skin.
Then apply your 2.3 pH Vitamin C liquid and let it work for 10 minutes.
Because its pH is still fairly acidic it will not hinder the other pH dependant product. Because it is higher pH it is applied after.
This is also applied near the end of the entire exfoliation cycle (of 30 minutes) so your AHA still works strongly at 20 minutes before pH is dropped some from the Vitamin C.
And all three have a light liquid/serum base, which will not hamper absorption. You can get all three benefits with one wait time of 30 minutes.
If you have a AHA/BHA combo liquid like the I Feel Pretty “Pretty Amazing Plus” – which has a pH of 2.0, you can do the same thing.
http://www.ifeelprettyproducts.com/exfoliants.htm
Apply your BHA/AHA first, wait 20 minutes. (this is a thin water like liquid, so no penetration/thickness issues)
Then, after 20 minutes, apply your Vitamin C product with a 2.0 -2.3 pH. (this can be liquid, gel, serum or cream, because it is applied AFER the thinner AHA/BHA)
Apply other treatments if Vit C thickness will not hamper them.
What if my Vit C is a much higher pH then my acids?
If you are using a high pH Vitamin C product like the Triple C from Professional Solutions @ 7.0 pH, http://www.dianayvonne.com/product/CSP99
you will use the exact same application as above. But leave BHA and AHA on 30 minutes before adding the Vitamin C. Then Leave Vitamin C on for 10 minutes, Then apply other products. This is because the 7.0 pH of your Vit C, is high enough to change the pH of your acids already on the skin. This would neutralize them, making them less effective.
What if my Vit C is lower pH then my acids?
If you AHA or BHA is a higher pH, like:
-Skin Biology Exfol Serum or cream@ 3.2 pH
http://www.dianayvonne.com/product/SB86_1
-Paula’s Choice AHA 8% @ 3.5 pH
http://www.cosmeticscop.com/shop/product.asp?CODE=PC190&PAGETYPE=S
-Paula’s Choice 2% BHA @ 3.2 PH
http://www.cosmeticscop.com/shop/product.asp?CODE=PC201&PAGETYPE=S
-Skin Biology 10% LacSal lotion @ pH of 4.0
https://store.skinbiology.com/catalog/index.cfm?fuseaction=product&theParentId=125&id=768
These are all higher then your Vitamin C product. (Assuming you use L-ascorbic at 2.3 pH or so) So if you apply them FIRST, the higher pH can hamper your Vitamin C.
So you apply your Vitamin C first for 10 -15 minutes, then top with your AHA and BHA products, allowing all layers a 30 minutes wit time before adding other treatments.
No rinsing is needed before adding other treatments, though you may rinse if you choose.
Other activities are applied based on product thickness. (if no pH concerns exist)
Remember if your Vitamin C in this example were a cream or lotion, it cannot be applied before your AHA or BHA, even with a lower pH. Because a cream or lotion will hamper the penetration of the BHA thinner formulation. (Gel, serum, liquid)
If your Vit C is a light lotion, and your exfoliate is also a lotion, you can then apply your AHA or BHA after the Vit C, (based on pH) because the lotions can penetrate through the lower lotion base. (generally- though some thicker creams and lotions can be an issue with penetration)
Because of the thin to thick issue, Exfoliates, and Vitamin C tend to be better formulated in thin products, such as liquids, serums, and gels.
This allows you to easily layer other products OVER them without washing between steps.
Exfoliates work best when applied to clean skin. Because Vitamin C is generally acidic, it also works best when applied before other treatments, as its acid nature can remove other product.
If you will not apply anything after your Vit C, thickness and pH are less of an issue.
Remember the thin to thick rule. Thin products before thick ones, so all can absorb effectively
-Cleanser (may need to wait before exfoliate, if pH is a concern)
(optional pH adjusting product could be used here, after cleansing - before acid)
-Exfoliate (usually requires a wait time)
-Toner (Liquid water like products, such as toner/treatment solutions, liquid DMAE)
-Serum (Copper Serum, treatment Serums, DMAE thicker products)
-Gel (DMAE, deffrin)
-Oils (Emu, Jojoba, Almond, etc)
-Creams
-Sunscreen
-Foundations
Also keep in mind creams and lotions tend to be more complex overall. This can lessen their ability to penetrate as well. The more ingredients in a product, the more one should be concerned with potential sensitivities, clogged pores and other issues. Simpler products tend to be easier to evaluate, because of the lower ingredients used.
Other “proven” Collagen rebuilding options include Tretinoin, Copper Peptides, and High strength low pH AHA acids.
What if I have a High pH acid, and a low pH acid and Vitamin C?
Same steps as above examples, and sandwiching the Vitamin C as appropriate using the method low pH to high. Assuming all “thicknesses” will work together. If they will not you may need to more some products to alternate sessions (AM or PM) or days.
Using Copper Peptides With Vitamin C?
Using Copper Peptides in conjunction with your vitamin C will not harm your skin, or your Copper Peptides. But the Copper in your product can cause your vitamin C to become ineffective if applied in the same session.
For best results of both actives, you should apply your vitamin C products roughly 12 hours apart from your Copper products.
Some people do apply them together, or with only a 30 minute wait time between products, and receive benefits from both. But most experts agree, you will get more benefit with a 12 hours window between applications.
Other Recommended Reading on Vitamin C.
Make Your Own Effective Cosmetic Treatments, by Carol Demas
http://www.cafepress.com/buy/Make%20your%20own%20effective%20cosmetic%20treatments/-/pv_design_prod/p_storeid.30393410/pNo_30393410/id_8562896/opt_/pg_/c_/fpt_
(excellent info for the DIY)
Skin Rejuvination InfoPack and
The Do It Yourself Anti-Aging Skin Care Infopack
http://www.smartskincare.com/infopacks/
(more great info for the DIY)
From Paula Begoun, on Vit C
http://www.paulaschoice.com/learn/art.asp?ID=383
DermaDoc (see Articles Section at Bottom)
http://www.dermadoctor.com/supersearchresults.asp?WID=%7B61015C38%2D4F54%2D45F4%2D89DE%2D512840007A7A%7D
My previous post on pH and Wait Times for treatment products and acids
http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=18360 |
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