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Mon Feb 05, 2007 3:38 pm  |
aha/bha I will reply. It will be long, so just wait a bit.  |
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Mon Feb 05, 2007 4:35 pm |
AHA:
- is Alpha Hydroxy Acid. There are a handful of different ones, and they vary a bit on irritancy and skin types that they are each best suited for. Glycolic is the cheapest, and the most irritating. But available in a variety of products formulas. Not all are effective, due to pH and concentration issues.
Lactic is better suited for sensitive skin, and penetrates a bit deeper then Glycolic, because it can penetrate through skin oils to a limited extent. Mandelic is also better suited for sensitive skin , a bit more irritating then lactic, less then Glycolic. Also penetrates skin oils to an extent. Lactic and Mandelic are better suited for oily skin.
AHAs are pH dependant. Meaning that an incorrect pH makes them ineffective. 3.4% pH is the highest one should have an AHA for exfoliation action. And at that high a pH level you are actually only getting about half the acid strength.
So an 8% product at 3.4 pH only works out to about 4 % working pH. As pH drops lower, acid strength becomes higher (stronger). So an 8% AHA at 1.9 pH has 7-8% actual acid working on the skin. This can also increase irritation and dryness. So an acid with a low pH may only be needed every other day or every third day as opposed to daily.
For exfoliation action, a product must contain at least 5% AHA. Below 5% it has very little to no exfoliation action, and works more as a moisterizing aid.
It should stay on the skin, without altering the pH for 30 minutes. If another product is applied over it with a higher pH, the exfoliation action stops at that point.
AHAs in general do not penetrate skin oil well. So they do not exfoliate inside the pores.
Rather they are primarily a surface exfoliate only. Good for fine lines, dullness, skin pigment issues, fine scars, UV damage. They also thin surface skin slightly helping other products penetrate better. Higher strengths can assist in collagen rebuilding, and skin repair, resurfacing.
BHA:
- is in one form for skincare, which is Salicylic acid.
This is not the same as the active component in Aspirin which acetylsalicylic acid. Aspirin or acetylsalicylic acid is created from one form of salicylic acid, and requires lab altering of the salicyclic molecule by esterification, using high pressure, high temperatures, and blending with other chemicals. It is a tricky process to create high quality Aspirin from salicylic acid.
Salicylic acid is not created from aspirin.
Both are inflammatory, both are not exfoliates. They are chemically similar, share some common activities on the skin, they are both beneficial, but they are not identical.
Salicylic acid is toxic if ingested in large quantities, but in small quantities is beneficial in skin care, treatments, and used in preservation, and antiseptics. Some people are salicylic sensitive. Aspirin through the chemical changes used to create it, is also buffered. Making it less toxic on ingestion.
Like AHA, BHA is also pH sensitive. Needing at least 3.0 pH or lower for best results. The lower the pH the stronger the BHA. 1-2% BHA are common in skincare products for exfoliation, 5% is useful for acne prone skin or enlarged pores. Higher strengths can be used as an aid in callus and wart removal.
Like AHA, BHA should stay on the skin, without altering the pH for 30 minutes. If another product is applied over it with a higher pH, the exfoliation action stops at that point.
BHA is lipid soluble. Which means it can easily penetrate through oils. This enables BHA to penetrate within the pores, where it can exfoliate inside of pore walls. This allows it to loosen dead cells, oil clogs, and cell debris.
This can enable enlarged pores, return to a more normal size. (one reason they gap is from build up of gunk in the pores, enlarging them). It also clears the pores, helping treatment products penetrate into the pore pocket distributing ingredients deeper into the skin.
BHA is also an anti-inflammatory. Meaning it can help sooth irritated skin. Often acne prone skin needs this type of soothing to help normalize and heal it. (Aspirin also works as an anti- inflammatory when used topically on the skin.) BHA has some anti-oxidant effects. Both the anti inflammatory and anti-oxidant effects are active as long as BHA is on skin surface, even after exfoliation action has stopped.
BHA is only has a mild surface exfoliation action. It is not good for fine lines repair, dullness etc. It is excellent for oily and acne prone skin, and an aid to help other products penetrate better, because of its ability to exfoliate inside pores.
For best product penetration enhancement both a surface and pore exfoliation often does better then either alone. If one has acne or oily skin, BHA is definitely indicated. Some people use BHA only on T-zone and oil areas and AHA all over or on other facial skin areas. This is a good option.
If skin is dry or normal, you may be able to get a similar benefit from one of the more lipid soluble AHAs, like lactic or Mandelic.
For scar treatment usually both BHA and AHA are used for optimal results. Though some may prefer one or the other.
AHA can thin the damaged tissue on scar surface, both thinning the scar, and enabling other treatments to penetrate deeper into the thickened scar portion easier.
BHA can enhance penetration of any ingredient it is used with, by helping draw other ingredients deeper, through its ability to migrate into the pore cavity. It can also be used as a chaser on top of other topicals to help push treatments deeper. This can increase irritation.
Stomach tissue is less tender then facial tissues, and thicker, so one can use stronger strength treatments and acids in that area with less irritation. Many people use AHAs above 20% for body skin. 20, 30 and 40% are commonly used. |
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