|
|
 |
Sun Feb 08, 2009 12:09 pm  |
Thank you bethany for posting the ingredients list. Let's take a close look at it and break it down for "activity" and function.
The first thing listed obviously is "water" which is the water phase of this product. It is the main component of this product and could be loaded anywhere from 50% to 70% in the formula. Remember, since water costs about 1 penny per kilogram, that isn't much cost in the product, so you better not be paying a lot for Strivectin!
Next, you have C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate which is made by the Innospec company. It is a rather low cost raw material that is a solvent with some emollient properties.
The next three are the main emollients in the oil phase. However, Sesame Oil, and Sweet Almond Oil are very inherently unstable oils. They break down into aldehydes and ketones in the presence of oxygen, and therefore go rancid easily and quickly. The Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides is a dirt cheap emollient very commonly used in low priced creams and lotions.
The Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate, made by the B & T company, are part of the emulsifying system used to keep the oil phase mixed with the water phase. I do happen to like this choice of emulsifier because it is Olive based. The fatty acid profile of olive makes this emulsifier system somwhat compatible with the skin, and therefore not very disruptive as most emulsifiers are.
At this point, I am trying to figure out the approximate load levels of some of these ingredients. The emollients in the oil phase are normally added at about the 4% or 5% level, so Sesame, Cap/Cap Tryglicerides and Almond are probably in there at about 4% or 5% each. The emulsifiers are usually 3% or 4% loaded. This makes me think that the "Striadril Complex" is probably loaded at about 3% or 4% due to its location on the ingredients list.
Therefore, the "active" Striadril Complex consists of what appears to be two extracts, several moisturizers, a peptide complex, a couple of humectants, and preservatives. Keeping in mind that "extracts" are almost always very small fractions of an original material, then there probably isn't much "active" material here considering these small fractions are then loaded as a "complex" at 3% or 4% in the formula. And since there are so many active fractions in this complex, none of them are added at very high levels in the overall formula with this "shotgun" effect. Let's look at them briefly as individual ingredients:
Propylene Glycol is just a solvent and sometimes a humectant
The Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, is an active anti-wrinkle peptide.
Glucosamine, which has been hot lately as an amino acid sugar that may have anti-wrinkle activity. However, n-Acetyl Glucosamine is the only real "stable" version of Glucosamine as a topically applied material. The the "HCL" hydrochloride version probably isn't a good choice.
The Algae Extract and Yeast Extract are moisturizers. And the Wheat derived materials are also moisture trapping materials.
The remaining extracts are definitely "foo foo" ingredients that may or may not have activity, and probably not at this low level.
The Urea, Butylene Glycol and DMDM Hydantoin are the preservative in this overall complex used to keep the raw material from going bad before being put into the formula.
Next is glycerin, which is a good humectant, but it can actually dry out your skin if loaded to high. I would guess the loading here to be about 2% or 3%, which is OK.
PPG-12/SMDI Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate & PEG-100 Stearate are another part of the emulsifier system (synthetic in origin), although a smaller part, probably about 2% loaded.
The Cocoa Butter, Stearic Acid, and Shea Butter have been added to give a thick and creamy body to the overall product. However, these are going to be somewhat greasy, and may give the cream a heavy feel which doesn't penetrate very readily. (Anybody experience that skin feel when using this product?). Each one of these are probably loaded into the formula at about 2% down to 1%.
Tocopheryl Acetate....Strivectin chemists' attempt to keep the formula stable using water soluble vitamin E. But the unstable Sesame and Sweet Almond Oil will still go rancid in a very short time, since no amount of anti-oxidants can stop that process. The Vit-E Acetate is probably added at about 1%.
Mango Butter, another unstable ingredient that "feels good". Loaded at 1% or less here.
Peppermint Oil, probably added to give a medicine type aroma, and some "tingle" when used on the skin. Probably added at less than 1%.
Methylparaben and Propylparaben are good preservatives, probably added at about 0.5% and 0.25% respectively.
Xanthan Gum is a natural thickener, probably added at about 0.2% or even less.
Triethanolamine....one of the worst "neutralizing" agents that a cosmetic chemist can use. This one can definitely lead to health problems. Luckily, it is loaded at usually very small levels, 0.1% or less.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent, used normally to trap any heavy metals in the water, and other ingredients so that the "actives" will remain active.
Retinyl Palmiate...very little if any of this anti-age ingredient is added since it is so far down on the list. It must be in there at about 1% or less. Same with the Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate.
So, here is how I would break it down. They are using several anti-aging actives, and a lot of moisturizers. But, the loading levels of all of them has got to be rather low based on the placement in the ingredients list.
And, the delivery system, which is the lotion itself is very weak. It uses very unstable oils and butters, and some synthetically designed emulsifiers which not only will not help the skin, but will more than likely disrupt the natural oils, and wax esters that your body produces to keep your skin soft and supple.
It is also quite obviously that they used as many low priced raw materials (ignoring efficacy) as possible to keep their overall cost low, while charging a high price for the product, in order to achieve maximum profit.
If I were grading this product, I would give it about a C-. Based on what some of you are saying about seeing no results, perhaps that grade might even drop to a D.
John
| bethany wrote: |
Here you go:
Strivectin SD Ingredients
Deionized Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Sesame Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sweet Almond Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Striadril Complex (consisting of Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract, Siegesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Polyglyceryl Methacrylate, Propylene Glycol, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Glucosamine HCL, Algae Extract, Yeast Extract, Urea, Butylene Glycol, DMDM Hydantoin, Hydrocotyl Extract, Coneflower Extract, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Bearberry Extract and Licorice PTH), Glycerin, PPG-12/SMDI Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate & PEG-100 Stearate, Cocoa Butter, Stearic Acid, Shea Butter, Tocopheryl Acetate, Mango Butter, Peppermint Oil, Methylparaben, Xanthan Gum, Propylparaben, Triethanolamine, Butylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Retinyl Palmitate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate.
http://www.treatment-skincare.com/Strivectin/SD-Ingredients.html |
|
_________________
President and Chief Formulator, Never Over The Hill Cosmetics, Patend holder, Award winning cosmetic chemist, neveroverthehill.com, Age 51 and staying young forever! |
|
