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Thu Jun 14, 2012 11:56 am  |
| fitgineer wrote: |
Hence my confusion. I guess I should email them and ask, hopefully they'll answer my questions 
I'll update this thread if they do.
Thanks for replying! |
Word that question carefully, Hannah can be a bit testy to say the least!  |
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I'LL SEE YOU ON THE DARKSIDE OF THE MOON.... |
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Thu Jun 14, 2012 12:01 pm |
| DarkMoon wrote: |
| fitgineer wrote: |
Hence my confusion. I guess I should email them and ask, hopefully they'll answer my questions
I'll update this thread if they do.
Thanks for replying! |
Word that question carefully, Hannah can be a bit testy to say the least! |
So I've heard... the last time I asked about the EO in Vit C serum and their photosensitivity, they completely ignored my email!!! |
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Female, born 1985. HW Engineer, Fitness nut. Embarking on the war against the signs of aging... |
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Fri Jun 15, 2012 4:03 pm |
| Firefox7275 wrote: |
Some sage words on this thread so far. Just as you can't chop words into bits, then shuffle the order and still make a conversation, you can't chop full size proteins up into peptides or amino acids and expect an effect like the parent protein.
"Natural Active Peptides by Skin Actives, a mix of small size (below 5,000 MW) peptides derived from marine collagen. They will help with moisturizing and supply your skin with amino acids that will be used in collagen synthesis. They are also likely to work as "matrikins," making your skin cells synthesize new collagen just as when the skin is damaged."
I'd like to see Skinactives prove anything more than moisturising (amino acids are rather expensive humectants). I'm surprised they don't recommend a pH given that active peptides will be denatured (structurally and functionally altered) in very acid or alkaline solutions. |
You have it right FF. There is no proof. Hydrolysis of collagen from dead critters produces any number of protein fragments... oligopeptides, peptides, and amino acids. Such peptides can have all sorts of actions, and if you make them randomly you never know what you will get. Many of these stimulate proteases, which translates to breakdown of skin structures and matrix proteins. Some peptide fragments are pro-ROS, generating free radicals. Some may compete with good peptides for receptors, or cause receptor downregulation. Many other potential negative consequences. Altogether, a crap shoot at best.
Some hydrolytics are quite good at breaking proteins all the way down to amino acid (AA) constituents. But AA's are dynamic, and compete with one another for transport mechanisms across cell membranes. So creating an excess of one AA extracellularly could cause a relative deficiency of another AA intracellularly. The natural AA's in the stratum corneum are 70% derived from keratohyalin granules, and are thus histidine-rich. Throwing large amounts of other AA's in there can imbalance the whole system, which is one of the essential pathways in maintaining skin pH (some AA's are good at buffering, some not). This a very bad thing for aging skin.
My earliest career direction in medicine was clinical nutrition, and amino acid metabolism was my research area. Here is a classic paper on the subject form one of my mentors:
http://journals.cambridge.org/download.php?file=%2FPNS%2FPNS24_02%2FS0029665165000344a.pdf&code=792f59a68d26de29215d621ee092fd38
To summarize, formulations with amino acids (and protein hydrolysates to a lesser but more random extent), are counterproductive in anti-aging dermatology. As Firefox points out, they can provide a humectant effect (but then so many things can). But unless you know precisely what AA's are deficient (in a disease state or condition), you will generally risk doing far more harm than good by slathering on these carcass-derived nutrients. Said protein nutrients are all too by the way abundant in the Western diet, and the body maintains AA balances in health quite cleverly. Why mess with a good thing. |
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Physician - scientist - curmudgeon. Kind to animals and stem cells. Nonprofit muckraking site: www.barefacedtruth.com. Day job: www.anteage.com |
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