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Mon Aug 12, 2013 3:29 am  |
As per Bethany's idea heres a thread just to discuss the above book.
Not quite sure how to transfer the few post relating to the book! 
As I said earlier it is a very comprehensive , book aimed at professionals, but having said that I dont think its beyond any of us here to work our way through it and gain real insights.
I have only just skimmed it as it has only just arrived but am will start it properly now  |
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46 got (PMD,Caci,QuasarMD,Tria , skin spatula) Using, environ , myfawnie serums, lacsal, retinol, GHk probably more but too embarrased to say |
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Mon Aug 12, 2013 3:35 am |
Cross-posting so we can keep the Epionce thread about Epionce products, and we can talk about any products that meet Dr T's guidelines here!
All,
Here is the initial book review, since I know there are some people interested in what it contains. I will share more info on each chapter later, including some info I personally found interesting.
Book review: New Ideal in Skin Health: Separating Fact from Fiction (Bourne, Krista; Thornfeldt, Carl)
In a nutshell, this was a very extensive read which caters to professionals thinking about starting a med spa, adding services to an existing practice, or trying to decide which skincare products to carry in their office. It contains a LOT of information…some beneficial now, as well as being a reference guide for ingredients/actives (their uses, clinicals, etc.). I think there is something for everyone in this book (meaning skin-focused consumers), but I don’t think the book is for everyone simply because not everyone likes to wade through tons of info. If you are looking for a book that says “buy this and this,” this is NOT that book. Dr. Thornfeldt presents info on many different options, along with many references to stats and clinical studies so that you can make up your own mind as to what choices you want to make.
This book was also NOT an advertisement for his products or services….”Epionce” appeared one time in reference to a skin barrier repair study, but no other Epionce products were discussed. However, in the protocol section I was able to figure out which products he was using, which I appreciated as an Epionce user.
This book is also so extensive in data that I can’t send you “a quick summary” in PM, though I can tell you this:
- He views maintaining the skin barrier as absolutely critical - without barrier repair/protection everything else is for naught (except sunscreen) . But if you focus on the barrier, you can actually reverse extrinisic aging.
- You need 3 components for barrier repair – ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids in a ratio of 3:1:1. Forty-five minutes after a barrier injury, restoring the three key lipid ratio and the function of the permeability barrier results in over 90 percent recovery as measured by TEWL.
- Anyone using traditional moisturizers, acids, retinols, or doing microdermabrasion, facial scrubs, etc. is damaging their barrier and needs to focus on barrier repair.
- Most cosmecutical/drugstore products do not contain the appropriate level of actives, nor have they been typically been clinically tested in the final formulations nor the appropriate human body part.
- There are 9 complete steps for delivery of an active at the right level to the right place in the skin. Just because you slather it on, doesn't mean it actually gets absorbed.
- Clinical studies can be misleading. The bottom line is to look for the p-value in the Results section. If the p-value is higher than 0.05, then the clinical data is not scientifically strong enough to support claims that the product works.
- The skin is an indicator of what else is happening inside the body. Various skin issues should be telling you that there are other aspects of your health that you should be considering.
To sum it up, this book tells you how to take care of your skin for the long term, how to find the best products available (and the criteria to judge them against), and helps identify the best solutions for various skin problems....whether it is a topical, an oral supplement, or a procedure.
More to come on the chapters below....
Section I Welcome to Esthetics
Chapter 1 Defining Roles
Section II Understanding the Skin
Chapter 2 Skin Basics
Chapter 3 Application of a New Understanding of Skin Health
Section III Cosmeceuticals
Chapter 4 Cosmeceuticals— OTC/ Prescription/ Professional
Chapter 5 Cosmeceutical Ingredients— What are the Claims, What are the Facts?
Chapter 6 Cosmeceuticals: Botanical Ingredients
Chapter 7 Topical Delivery of Cosmeceuticals
Chapter 8 Controversial Ingredients
Section IV Application
Chapter 9 Putting it into Practice: Choosing the Right Products
Chapter 10 Putting it into Practice: Other Therapeutic Options
Chapter 11 Putting it into Practice: Treatment Protocols
Chapter 12 Putting it into Practice: Success Tools
http://www.amazon.com/The-New-Ideal-Skin-Health/dp/1932633693/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1376267087&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=thornfeldt |
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No longer answering PM's due to numerous weird messages. |
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Fri Aug 16, 2013 4:37 am |
bethany, I am really glad I bought the book, it contains tons of info one the subject of skincare that I would probably never encounter without reading it. It does really feel like a textbook, which I like. There are no empty statements like "dermal rollers are mostly about creating the next skin care industry gimmick" (Paula Begoun).
I really like the book, albeit it is the first serious book I have on the subject. |
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Fri Aug 16, 2013 5:07 am |
| rileygirl wrote: |
| bethany wrote: |
- There are 9 complete steps for delivery of an active at the right level to the right place in the skin. Just because you slather it on, doesn't mean it actually gets absorbed.
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Thank you for your review Bethany. When time permits, could you please go in depth on the above? |
I have not got to the 9 steps of delivery yet, but he does mention different methods to enhance the penetration of actives: external energy (ultrasound, LED. etc), inducing damage to the barrier (chemical peels, microdermabrasion, microneedling; note: after those methods skin barrier damage should be restored), biochemical(through chemical enhancers, lipid ratios, etc.). |
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