Anyone using Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate DIY?
EDS Skin Care Forums Forum Index » Skincare Tools & Do-It-Yourself Skincare

free skin care · Mon Mar 26, 2007 12:22 pm

I just got some of this stuff from Lotioncrafter.com but I'm not quite sure how much of it to use. I was thinking of mixing it into my face oil, but how much? It says on their site that it is used from .5-2% up to 7%. That's a wide range. What percent would you use it at? Anyone have a good acual recipe and measurements for this active yet?

free skin care · Mon Mar 26, 2007 1:36 pm

What a coinky-dink! I just purchased this from Bulkactives and am also looking for a good recipe. I've got rosehip and hazelnut oil and was wondering if just an oil alone would work or do I need to incorportate it into a cream/lotion for results? Thanks!

free skin care · Mon Mar 26, 2007 1:45 pm

It's oil soluble and great at 7%. Even better when combined with L-AA and MAP. There have been a bunch of threads on this. Also, check over at the Skin Interactive board for various formulas, etc.

free skin care · Tue Mar 27, 2007 11:40 am

Thanks Katee. I did do a search on it first and only found stuff on products pre-formulated with it. I'll have to look up what L-AA is. I thought that MAP was only water soluble? Where is the skin interactive board at? Do you have a URL?

I was thinking of mixing it with ALA, CoQ10, Gamma oryzanol and Vitamin E. Since they're all oil soluble. Maybe in a mix of olive squalane. I don't know.

free skin care · Tue Mar 27, 2007 12:23 pm

MAP and L-Ascorbic Acid ARE only water soluble, but you can use something like polysorb 20 as an emulsifier.

Although, the L-Ascorbic Acid that I purchased is an ultra fine powder and I can blend both it and MAP into creams and lotions and such with absolutely no problem.

The SkinInteractive Board is:
http://skininteractive.proboards28.com/index.cgi?

free skin care · Tue Mar 27, 2007 5:40 pm

Thanks. I'll check out that board. I wonder what would happen if you used 2 different serums and just layered it. L-AA and MAP in a serum and then the Tetra in the moisturizer.

free skin care · Tue Mar 27, 2007 10:46 pm

I'm layering like that BRYG but without the LA (on order).

I use a water based serum including MAP and then follow up with emu containing Tetra.

Then you don't need an emulsifier.

free skin care · Tue Mar 27, 2007 11:21 pm

Sounds like a plan. What do you use in the water based serum besides water? And what % of MAP and LA would you use?

free skin care · Tue Mar 27, 2007 11:38 pm

I haven't decided on the percentage of LA yet. I think between 10-15% is enough, especially as I only make enough for a few days at a time (no preservatives).

My water serum currently contains about 4% niacinamide and 5% MAP with a sprinkling of HA powder to glup it up slightly. SAS suggest 10% MAP, but I found it a bit much.

The emu has 7% ish Tetra in it, again small batch, no preservatives.

Also, I don't wait too long after the water serum to slap on the emu because I don't want it to evaporate. I think the emu stops that and punches it in.

I thought this was a cack-handed thing to do and was only doing it because I don't have any emulsifiers or preservatives, but now I like the idea of not using those and it's not complicated to layer two products.

free skin care · Wed Mar 28, 2007 12:04 am

When I add the LA I'll also add a chelator to my water based serum; most likely ferulic acid, though I have issues trying to dissolve the damn stuff.

free skin care · Wed Mar 28, 2007 1:23 am

Molly wrote:

When I add the LA I'll also add a chelator to my water based serum; most likely ferulic acid, though I have issues trying to dissolve the damn stuff.

Molly, ferulic acid just "melts away" into vegetable glycerin.

free skin care · Wed Mar 28, 2007 2:03 am

Cheers NYK - I'll nip out to the chemists and be dissolved by dusk

free skin care · Thu Mar 29, 2007 11:54 pm

Nyonakay - if you're there Smile

I used the glycerin as suggested and it mostly melts, but there's still a sort of scum on the surface (after mixing with a bit of water) like soap scum without the bubbles in an old bath. Am I doing something wrong?
TIA Molly

free skin care · Wed Apr 18, 2007 12:09 am

To those who are DIY-ing with Tetra:

Do you think I could just add this to hazelnut oil in a concentration of 7%?
Also, would the addition of essential oils at 5% be at all detrimental?

I am really loving my new hazelnut oil with EOs of palmarosa, rosewood, lemon, and lavender, mixed with a little SKB and HA in my hand for daytime underneath my SS. It would be amazing if I could add some tetra c to the mix. Am I fantasizing too much?

Thanks in advance!

--avalange

free skin care · Wed Apr 18, 2007 12:47 am

From my reading that would be fine; 7% in oil is good and there's not conflict with natural ingredients as far as I'm aware. It doesn't break down metals like L-Ascorbic.

free skin care · Tue Jun 24, 2008 8:02 pm

I'm bumping this thread, it's a good thread! Is anyone who's using a Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate serum still around and can share experience and advice?

I just bought a bunch of items from lotioncrafter. I'm going to mix Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E) and Rice Bran oil for the carrier. I'm planning for it to be 10% Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and about 5% vitamin E, for easy measuring.

free skin care · Sat Jun 28, 2008 12:56 pm

Nimue wrote:

I'm bumping this thread, it's a good thread! Is anyone who's using a Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate serum still around and can share experience and advice?

I just bought a bunch of items from lotioncrafter. I'm going to mix Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E) and Rice Bran oil for the carrier. I'm planning for it to be 10% Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and about 5% vitamin E, for easy measuring.

Nimue, I am getting ready to order as well, and make some for my mother.

Do you see any issues with adding Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and tocopheryl acetate to emu oil?

Thanks!

free skin care · Sat Jun 28, 2008 2:13 pm

Bethany,

I've never used emu oil but I've read that it "pushes" stuff into your skin. If it's just pushing vitamins C and E into your skin, I don't see anything wrong with that. I can't wait to get my order from lotioncrafter!

bethany wrote:

Nimue, I am getting ready to order as well, and make some for my mother.

Do you see any issues with adding Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and tocopheryl acetate to emu oil?

Thanks!

free skin care · Sun Jun 29, 2008 4:39 pm

Nimue wrote:

Bethany,

I've never used emu oil but I've read that it "pushes" stuff into your skin. If it's just pushing vitamins C and E into your skin, I don't see anything wrong with that. I can't wait to get my order from lotioncrafter!

bethany wrote:

Nimue, I am getting ready to order as well, and make some for my mother.

Do you see any issues with adding Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and tocopheryl acetate to emu oil?

Thanks!

I just checked with Lotioncrafter, and they saw no issue with me adding them either....yay!!! I am also going to add their RetnoSpheres VitA, which will not break down in the presence of the C.

free skin care · Sun Jun 29, 2008 6:20 pm

bethany wrote:

Nimue wrote:

I'm bumping this thread, it's a good thread! Is anyone who's using a Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate serum still around and can share experience and advice?

I just bought a bunch of items from lotioncrafter. I'm going to mix Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E) and Rice Bran oil for the carrier. I'm planning for it to be 10% Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and about 5% vitamin E, for easy measuring.

Nimue, I am getting ready to order as well, and make some for my mother.

Do you see any issues with adding Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and tocopheryl acetate to emu oil?

Thanks!

Nimue; 1% of vitamin E would be a better option. More than that will make it thick and goopy and not let it absorb..(How's that for high tech jargon.. Laughing

)

Beth; Your ingredient list will work well.

Almost any oil or lipid base will mix, but 'Emu' will make for better absorption.

free skin care · Sun Jun 29, 2008 7:22 pm

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind and adjust the %. I am planning on using this in the evenings, so quick absorbption is not a huge issue but this is good to know.

Hey- thick and goopy gets the message across, which is all that matters!

Kassy_A wrote:

Nimue; 1% of vitamin E would be a better option. More than that will make it thick and goopy and not let it absorb..(How's that for high tech jargon.. Laughing

)

Beth; Your ingredient list will work well.

Almost any oil or lipid base will mix, but 'Emu' will make for better absorption.

Mon Jun 30, 2008 11:59 am

Is Ascorbyl Palmitate a good substitute for Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate in these recipes? It's much more affordable, but I'm wondering whether there's enough of a difference between the two to justify spending more.

free skin care · Mon Jun 30, 2008 12:34 pm

Here is a link with some of the differences:

http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/vitcderiv.html

Mon Jun 30, 2008 12:53 pm

bethany wrote:

Here is a link with some of the differences:

http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/vitcderiv.html

The article states: "Unfortunately, it appears that the concentrations of ascorbyl palmitate achievable in skin care formulas do not boost collagen synthesis as much as vitamin C." I thought ascorbyl palmitate is vitamin C? Do they mean other forms of Vit C (oral, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate,etc)?

free skin care · Mon Jun 30, 2008 3:56 pm

bethany wrote:

Nimue wrote:

Bethany,

I've never used emu oil but I've read that it "pushes" stuff into your skin. If it's just pushing vitamins C and E into your skin, I don't see anything wrong with that. I can't wait to get my order from lotioncrafter!

bethany wrote:

Nimue, I am getting ready to order as well, and make some for my mother.

Do you see any issues with adding Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and tocopheryl acetate to emu oil?

Thanks!

I just checked with Lotioncrafter, and they saw no issue with me adding them either....yay!!! I am also going to add their RetnoSpheres VitA, which will not break down in the presence of the C.

Just an FYI...I ended up not being able to use the RetnoSpheres VitA in the emu because the emu oil ph is too low. Sad

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