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Wed Jan 16, 2008 10:43 am  |
Hello:
what is the difference between
- peel AHA & BHA
- microdermabration
- exfoliating cleanser??????
they all exfoliate, right?? I don't want to over do it. Help?? |
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Wed Jan 16, 2008 11:48 am |
Exfoliation is a mechanical process that removes dead skin cells from the surface of the skin. The entire surface of the skin is comprised of dead cells, piled up one on another much like a fence made of stones or bricks. If you can imagine the very top of that fence, then you realize that it doesn't take much force to push the top stones off, leaving tighted fresher stones underneath. This is the same for the skin. The top cells begin to flake and lift. This gives the skin a scale type appearance and a dull color. If you can remove these, then fresher (although still dead) skins cells will be exposed giving the skin an overall smoother and brighter appearance.
The chemical peels like the AHA and BHA materials perform this function by chemically stripping the old cells off.
Microdermabrasion uses micro fine particles to manually sandpaper off the dead cells. Usually this material is aluminum oxide, or crushed up nut shells, or polyethylene beads or even beads made from jojoba esters. All work well, although some have sharper edges than others and can cause micro lacerations on the skin which can cause the skin to be irritated and red.
An exfoliating cleanser could have a mechanical exfoliating device in it such as small particles like Dial body wash with jojoba beads. Or, it could have strong surfactants and solubilizers that help scrub away sebum and oils that are holding the flaking dead skin cells on.
Each of these methods can be a little irritating to the skin. You definitely don't want to exfoliate or peel too deeply into the epidermis or you will definitely irritate the deeper layers of skin.
Here are the definitions for materials that exfoliate or abrade:
According to the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary Handbook:
Exfoliant: Exfoliants are ingredients which initiate or accelerate removal of the layers of dead skin cells from the skin surface. Typical exfoliants include alpha- and aromatic hydroxyacids. The activity of these substances as exfoliants is enhanced at low pHs. These listings do not include ingredients which exfoliate by abrading the skin surface with irregularly shaped solids. (See Abrasives)
Abrasives: Abrasives are used in cosmetics to remove unwanted tissue or foreign materials from various body surfaces. The removed materials may include dead skin surface cells, callus, or dental plaque. As a rule, abrasives are irregularly shaped fine or coarse solids. Harder abrasives include special forms of Hydrated Silica used for tooth cleansing, while softer abrasives such as Oatmeal are employed to remove dead skin surface cells. Abrasive agents can also be used to produce gloss, e.g., on nails, by removal of surface imperfections.
According to the Cosmetic Bench Reference 2001 published by C & T:
Exfoliant: Helps loosen surface skin cells to expose a fresher looking skin surface.
Abrasive: Abrades, smoothes, polishes
John |
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President and Chief Formulator for "Never Over The Hill Cosmetics" |
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Wed Jan 16, 2008 11:57 am |
thanks for the great info, now I can choose one of them..............  |
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