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La Roche Posay Hydraphrase UV 30 moisturizer - Review
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Autumn1995
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Mon Mar 22, 2010 6:56 pm      Reply with quote
I first purchased this in 2005 and continue to use this. I can use it around the eyes. (Although it is quite moisturizing and I prefer Clarins spf 30 eye cream on lids as it is more matt.)
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THIS REVIEW IS FOR THE CDN VERSION. The US product has totally different actives. EDS sells the Canadian version also.
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UPDATE 2010 - STILL USING THIS PRODUCT ALMOST DAILY. I always wear SS. skin type - oily t-zone; sensitive and will be 49 in April

Active Ingredients:

Octinoxate 7.5%, Mexoryl SX 4%, Titanium Dioxide 2.5%.


INACTIVE INGREDIENTS: Water, cyclopenta-siloxane, glycerin, propylene glycol, tea-carbomer, c12-15 alkyl benzoate, stearic acid, potassium cetyl phosphate, tocopheryl acetate, peg-100 sterate, glyceryl stearate, cetyl alcohol, dimethicone, aluminum hydroxide, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, sodium hyaluronate, disodium edta, palmitic acid, myristic acid, sodium chloride, BHT, phenoxy-ethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutyl-paraben, fragrance


I discovered this sunscreen/moisturizer truly by accident. I was already using the LRP spray 30 (created for oily/combo skins) and was happy with the protection but the finish was quite matt.

I wear mineral makeup and sometimes I had trouble getting a good application if I applied a lot and/or did not wait for the product to absorb. I was in SDM one day browsing and saw the Hydraphrase on display. I tried the Hydraphrase on my hand. My first thought was "Wow this feels like a moisturizer not a sunscreen." There was a GWP going on that day so I purchased. I LOVE the feeling of full stable protection that applies/feels like a moisturizer. I can apply this around my eyes without stinging. I can apply my MMU over this. It does leave a "glow" as a moisturizer would but does not feel heavy/greasy like a traditional sunscreen. My one complaint about this product is that it does have added fragrance and I prefer unscented/no fragrance added products. (BTW the LRP spray 30 has no added fragrance.)

This product contains Mexoryl SX.

It contains NO PARSOL 1789/AKA AVOBENZONE. This chemical is a concern for some people. I would recommend this for someone who is looking for a daily stable sunscreen. Great packaging - this is in an airtight pump 50 ml (1.69 oz). You do not need a separate moisturizer unless you are very dry/extreme winter conditions. Widely available at SDM and also EDS. I have no added skincare problems with daily use of this sunscreen. I do wear mineral makeup and powder and blot. FOR SOMEONE WHO IS VERY OILY (and especially if you do not wear makeup)I do recommend the LRP spray 30 which leaves a matt almost powdery finish. I have this also and like to spray back of neck/chest area.
Testers are available in SDM and product can be returned with receipt if you do not like it for any reason. This is worth checking out. I have used a long list of sunscreen products and this is my keeper.
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Tue Mar 23, 2010 7:37 am      Reply with quote
Thanks, however this is still a chemical sunscreen... So a lot more people are trying to find pure physical sunscreens now, because the chemicals are actually causing more damage than they are preventing imo
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Tue Mar 23, 2010 7:40 am      Reply with quote
zverenok wrote:
Thanks, however this is still a chemical sunscreen... So a lot more people are trying to find pure physical sunscreens now, because the chemicals are actually causing more damage than they are preventing imo


I feel the same, it's a hunt but worth it to find a perfect physical sunscreen. Smile

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Tue Mar 23, 2010 9:01 am      Reply with quote
Wink Well, I haven't touched it all winter, but now that sunshine is back, I took out my mineral makeup with SPF and had a small breakout - I've noticed having it in the past on occasion, and I think it's the cornstarch that's doing it to me.
I was going to formulate my own, with pearl and silk powders and some z-cote Smile That should provide sufficient regular day coverage for me....
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Tue Mar 23, 2010 9:46 am      Reply with quote
zverenok wrote:
Wink Well, I haven't touched it all winter, but now that sunshine is back, I took out my mineral makeup with SPF and had a small breakout - I've noticed having it in the past on occasion, and I think it's the cornstarch that's doing it to me.
I was going to formulate my own, with pearl and silk powders and some z-cote Smile That should provide sufficient regular day coverage for me....


What brand have you been using with cornstarch, I would have thought that cornstarch would be drying? But you may be right, I have never used any with cornstarch in it! Smile
Have fun making your own!

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Tue Mar 23, 2010 12:51 pm      Reply with quote
But isn't Mexoryl the best sunscreen chemical out there endorsed by all derms?
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Tue Mar 23, 2010 4:01 pm      Reply with quote
It maybe the best chemical among chemicals, but it's still a chemical sunscreen. It has to penetrate your skin to work, and it works against your skin by release free radicals. Physical, and I mean 100% physical sunblock, with added antioxidants and vitamins is the best you can get.
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Tue Mar 23, 2010 5:12 pm      Reply with quote
zverenok wrote:
Thanks, however this is still a chemical sunscreen... So a lot more people are trying to find pure physical sunscreens now, because the chemicals are actually causing more damage than they are preventing imo


I disclosed the ingredients and did not claim it was physical only.

I did write a review for Neostrata Cliniderm SS. That one has titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

Can you provide a reliable link on how chemical sunscreens are "causing more damage than they are preventing"?
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Tue Mar 23, 2010 5:20 pm      Reply with quote
DarkMoon wrote:
zverenok wrote:
Wink Well, I haven't touched it all winter, but now that sunshine is back, I took out my mineral makeup with SPF and had a small breakout - I've noticed having it in the past on occasion, and I think it's the cornstarch that's doing it to me.
I was going to formulate my own, with pearl and silk powders and some z-cote Smile That should provide sufficient regular day coverage for me....


What brand have you been using with cornstarch, I would have thought that cornstarch would be drying? But you may be right, I have never used any with cornstarch in it! Smile
Have fun making your own!


Cornstarch is not considered a mineral. I do know that there is a couple of MMU companies that sell finishing powder with corn starch. Is the cornstarch in your finishing powder? Can you try a different type?

There is a couple of MMU companies that do sell finishing powder/sunscreen powder. Silk Naturals has one that is zinc. (I have a full size jar. Wonderful under or on top of MMU or on its own!)

Mad Minerals has one and also Aubrey Nicole. The first two companies offer sample sizes.
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Tue Mar 23, 2010 6:40 pm      Reply with quote
Hey Automn,

No, I didn't say cornstarch was a mineral. It's just part of my mineral foundation powder, and doesn't sit well with me sometimes. It's for absorption actually, but I wish they'd used something else.

I was just saying that I used my mineral powder that has zinc in it for everyday - drive to work - types of out.

Regarding chemical sunscreens, you can google it, a whole load of info is out there on chemical sunscreens.
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Wed Mar 24, 2010 11:18 am      Reply with quote
Bira wrote:
But isn't Mexoryl the best sunscreen chemical out there endorsed by all derms?

Mexoryl is good for UVA protection.
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Wed Mar 24, 2010 4:26 pm      Reply with quote
kikiw wrote:
Bira wrote:
But isn't Mexoryl the best sunscreen chemical out there endorsed by all derms?

Mexoryl is good for UVA protection.


The newer sunscreen filters Mexoryl and Tinosorb are photostable. Photostable sunscreen ingredients did not need to be reapplied often like the traditonal sunscreens (with the older chemical sunscreen ingredients).

Sunscreen is really personal choice. I think it is important to use one (especially in the sun). It is hard to find a good one. I have tried dozens so when I find one worth writing about...I do!
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Wed Mar 24, 2010 11:20 pm      Reply with quote
One of my favorite sunscreen is La Roche-Posay Anthelios extreme fluid spf50+, I write a review for it in this forum. Maybe it's due to difficulty to buy in north america or chemical and physical combination ingredients, rarely people reply my that post. However, it fits me well. After trying huge scales, I still love it. Laughing
LondonJamie
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Thu Mar 25, 2010 7:28 am      Reply with quote
A combination of Mexoryl SX and Mexoryl XL is a photostbale sunscreen. I use La Roche Posay Fluid 50 and the PPD is 28.

From my research Mexoryl is not like traditional chemical sunscreens. For those with dry skin, who cannot tolerate physical sunscreens or the amount needed to get good UVA protection, mexoryl SX/XL is a God-send IMO.

I apply a very generous amount on the first application, and apply it again every two hours (LRP contains AVOBENZONE).

Skinceuticals have a new line of Mexoryl sunscreens that will be available from mid-April. It includes an spf 30 and an spf 50.

I'm not sure whether they will contain AVOBENZONE, I hope they don't. Ideally, I do not want to have to keep reapplying.

Here is some information I found:


What is Photostability?


Photostability means the ability to stabilize under sunlight. The process of photostability is a key factor in sunscreen protection efficacy. High photostability means the sunscreen will maintain a higher UVA protection.


What Makes Mexoryl SX Special?


When UVA and UVB protective sun filters were first introduced, they provided minimal protection against UVA rays. Though the UVA ray filter molecule Avobenzone (Parsol 1789) was approved for drug store and apothecary use in 1992, it was discovered that when used by itself, Avobenzone (Parsol 1789) degrades when exposed to the sun, thereby reducing its UVA protection potency.

Mexoryl SX, is photostable on its own and is the most effective FDA-approved organic filter designed to protect against short UVA rays. Formulations containing Mexoryl SX and L’Oreal’s patented photostable association of Octocrylene and Avobenzone provide complete broad spectrum UV protection, with a high level of protection across the UVA spectrum - particularly short UVA rays in the range of UVA 320-340nm.

How Does Mexoryl SX work?

Mexoryl SX protects the skin by absorbing the energy of the sun’s short UVA rays. Mexoryl SX acts as a normal filter, but becomes highly energized by absorbing the energy of a UV photon. Mexoryl SX protects against UVA photons penetrating your skin, deactivates and releases the absorbed energy to the environment as harmless energy, then repeats the process over and over.
How Can Mexoryl SX Benefit You?

* Highly photostable
* Most effective FDA approved sun filter to protect against UVA rays
* Allows for the most complete UV protection when combined with other effective sun filtering agents
* Is tolerated very well by most individuals

They offer protection against the full spectrum of UVA and UVB rays. Unlike many sunscreens that only protect against UVB rays and a small fraction of UVA rays, La Roche Posay Anthelios sunscreens contain Mexoryl SX and Mexoryl XL. These two molecules offer broad spectrum UVA/UVB protection against the full range of UVA and UVB rays. Manufactured in France to exacting standards, this line of sunscreens is widely recommended by dermatologists and used by individuals who seek the best protection from skin damage associated with sun exposure.

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Thu Mar 25, 2010 11:54 pm      Reply with quote
LondonJamie wrote:
A combination of Mexoryl SX and Mexoryl XL is a photostbale sunscreen. I use La Roche Posay Fluid 50 and the PPD is 28.

From my research Mexoryl is not like traditional chemical sunscreens. For those with dry skin, who cannot tolerate physical sunscreens or the amount needed to get good UVA protection, mexoryl SX/XL is a God-send IMO.

I apply a very generous amount on the first application, and apply it again every two hours (LRP contains AVOBENZONE).

Skinceuticals have a new line of Mexoryl sunscreens that will be available from mid-April. It includes an spf 30 and an spf 50.

I'm not sure whether they will contain AVOBENZONE, I hope they don't. Ideally, I do not want to have to keep reapplying.

Here is some information I found:


What is Photostability?


Photostability means the ability to stabilize under sunlight. The process of photostability is a key factor in sunscreen protection efficacy. High photostability means the sunscreen will maintain a higher UVA protection.


What Makes Mexoryl SX Special?


When UVA and UVB protective sun filters were first introduced, they provided minimal protection against UVA rays. Though the UVA ray filter molecule Avobenzone (Parsol 1789) was approved for drug store and apothecary use in 1992, it was discovered that when used by itself, Avobenzone (Parsol 1789) degrades when exposed to the sun, thereby reducing its UVA protection potency.

Mexoryl SX, is photostable on its own and is the most effective FDA-approved organic filter designed to protect against short UVA rays. Formulations containing Mexoryl SX and L’Oreal’s patented photostable association of Octocrylene and Avobenzone provide complete broad spectrum UV protection, with a high level of protection across the UVA spectrum - particularly short UVA rays in the range of UVA 320-340nm.

How Does Mexoryl SX work?

Mexoryl SX protects the skin by absorbing the energy of the sun’s short UVA rays. Mexoryl SX acts as a normal filter, but becomes highly energized by absorbing the energy of a UV photon. Mexoryl SX protects against UVA photons penetrating your skin, deactivates and releases the absorbed energy to the environment as harmless energy, then repeats the process over and over.
How Can Mexoryl SX Benefit You?

* Highly photostable
* Most effective FDA approved sun filter to protect against UVA rays
* Allows for the most complete UV protection when combined with other effective sun filtering agents
* Is tolerated very well by most individuals

They offer protection against the full spectrum of UVA and UVB rays. Unlike many sunscreens that only protect against UVB rays and a small fraction of UVA rays, La Roche Posay Anthelios sunscreens contain Mexoryl SX and Mexoryl XL. These two molecules offer broad spectrum UVA/UVB protection against the full range of UVA and UVB rays. Manufactured in France to exacting standards, this line of sunscreens is widely recommended by dermatologists and used by individuals who seek the best protection from skin damage associated with sun exposure.


haha, one more fan of La Roche-Posay sunscreen.
Thanks for your sharing. I don't think chemical sunscreen is so awful, as long as it pass the lab check. Moreover, sunscreen with Mexoryl SX and Mexoryl XL, especially this line are widely recommended by derms.
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Fri Mar 26, 2010 7:25 am      Reply with quote
zverenok wrote:
It maybe the best chemical among chemicals, but it's still a chemical sunscreen. It has to penetrate your skin to work, and it works against your skin by release free radicals. Physical, and I mean 100% physical sunblock, with added antioxidants and vitamins is the best you can get.


I was led to believe that unstable chemical sunscreens created free radicals. Is there any evidence that Mexoryl creates free radicals?

I'd be really grateful for opinions as I'm using a Mexoryl sunscreen. TIA.

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Fri Mar 26, 2010 3:31 pm      Reply with quote
London Jamie:

I had asked zverenok for her source of information in a previous post. She told me to google.

If someone has a source of information from a reliable site (based on medical and or scientific information); I would be interested in reading it.
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Sun Mar 28, 2010 4:51 am      Reply with quote
I don't know anything specific about mexoryl, but I know that the physical sunscreens stem out of the fact that chemical sunscreens are working via absorption of the chemicals into your skin. The photo instability is another issue.

If you trust "it to pass the labs test" then you should trust lancome and revlon cosmetics and skin care. IMO, lab tests is to pass whatever minimal requirements government body has.

Question is, do you really need/want man made chemical sunscreens to be absorbed by your skin? Or would you rather have physical block, that you can wash off?
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Sun Mar 28, 2010 6:58 am      Reply with quote
What other chemical sunscreen is being used for UVB protection?

Ecamsule (USAN, trade name Mexoryl SX, INCI terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid) is an organic compound which is added to many sunscreens to filter out UVA rays. It is a benzylidene camphor derivative, many of which are known for their excellent photostability.[1]

Although there are a few different UV absorbers with the trade name Mexoryl, only two of them are widely used where approved. Mexoryl SX (water soluble) and Mexoryl XL (INCI Drometrizole trisiloxane, oil soluble). Together they show a synergistic effect in protection.[2] The patents are held by L'Oréal. Sunscreens containing ecamsule are exclusive to L'Oréal and its brands.

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ecamsule?wasRedirected=true

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Tue Mar 30, 2010 9:53 am      Reply with quote
zverenok wrote:
I don't know anything specific about mexoryl, but I know that the physical sunscreens stem out of the fact that chemical sunscreens are working via absorption of the chemicals into your skin. The photo instability is another issue.

Question is, do you really need/want man made chemical sunscreens to be absorbed by your skin? Or would you rather have physical block, that you can wash off?


Mexoryl SX/XL are photostable.

My skin won't tolerate physical sunscreens- dries it out. I have to use chemical ss formulated without alcohol.

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Tue Mar 30, 2010 12:57 pm      Reply with quote
Sounds like you just have to go with what you or your skin prefers, be it chemical or physical, in most cases. I personally prefer physical SS cuz i don't want to wait 20 mins for it to work. So physical seems the way to go for me. I don't think chemical SS can cause all that much damage, or it would be pulled off the market by now. There's a risk in everything we do in life, so if you're constantly worried about everything, you'll live a short life since stress causes a lot of health problems.
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Thu Apr 01, 2010 1:23 pm      Reply with quote
Natalyn wrote:
Sounds like you just have to go with what you or your skin prefers, be it chemical or physical, in most cases. I personally prefer physical SS cuz i don't want to wait 20 mins for it to work. So physical seems the way to go for me. I don't think chemical SS can cause all that much damage, or it would be pulled off the market by now. There's a risk in everything we do in life, so if you're constantly worried about everything, you'll live a short life since stress causes a lot of health problems.


well actually, there is another option - without chemical sunscreens. It's natural/vitamin/antioxidant sunscreen. It also has to be applied about 30 mins before exposure. It has to be reapplied frequently, but I think that if you are opting out to apply 30 mins before, might as well opt out for vitamin protection instead.

Worrying has nothing to do with it, it's about choosing the best for yourself.
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Mon Apr 19, 2010 7:52 pm      Reply with quote
right, for me, never mind chemical or physical,take the one that suits your skin and protects
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