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Sat Oct 10, 2009 5:53 am  |
I am starting to prep my skin to do a series of peels and I am interested in barrier repair products to go along with this. From what I have read, a topical with ceramides, cholesterol, and other lipids seems to be a good choice.
I would like recommendations for barrier repair products and any thoughts on this subject! |
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Sat Oct 10, 2009 7:38 am |
Hi riley,
Do you have some product or ingredient names for the ceramides, cholesterol and lipids?
I keep reading about these key substances, but would really like to know which ingredients fall into which category - for example, avocado oil would be an example of a lipid - but what are examples of a ceramide or a cholesterol?
Thanks, BF |
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Sat Oct 10, 2009 7:42 am |
| Barefootgirl wrote: |
Hi riley,
Do you have some product or ingredient names for the ceramides, cholesterol and lipids?
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Nope, that is part of the reason I started the thread!  I am just starting to search all this, so I will let you know if I find anything out! |
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Mon Oct 12, 2009 4:30 pm |
Where is Septembergirl??? She should be all over this one for us!
Are you there SG? We need your help!~
BF |
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Mon Oct 12, 2009 5:26 pm |
Skin actives has a product called Every Lipid Serum that has everything in it.
From their site:
Use this oil based serum on its own or as a base for lipophilic actives.
This serum is 100% active ingredients with absolutely no fillers. This serum contains every lipid your skin needs. It is specifically designed to help repair the skin barrier with squalane and ceramides. It will supply every the lipids your skin needs, including essential fatty acids (in rosehip oil), and other lipids your skin can synthesize but may not be making in sufficient amounts. The serum will rejuvenate broken, dry skin that does not provide a good barrier against the environment. The serum has been shown to regulate oil production in oily skin, making it an effective step in an acne control regimen.
Ingredients
Squalane and Olea Europea (olive) fruit extract, Rosa rubiginosa (rosehip) seed oil, Punica granatum (pomegranate) seed oil, Lecithin, Cholesterol Oleyl Carbonate and Cholesteryl Nanoate and Cholesteryl Chloride, Punica granatum (pomegranate) Seed Oil and Astaxanthin and Tocotrienols and Lycopene and alpha D-Tocopherol and Thioctic Acid and Lutein and beta Carotene, Phytosterols, Ceramide-3.
Usage
ELS serum can be used directly on the skin as a daily rejuvenating serum.
Alternatively, you may add some of our other actives to create a world class serum targeted to your needs. This serus is the perfect base for CoEnzyme Q10, GABA, and our other lipophilic actives. Please note that Alpha Lipoic Acid is already included in the serum and addtional quantities will be difficult to dissolve.
Solubility
Lipophilic
Further Info
Our stratum corneum consists of the corneocytes (flattened cells
that have lost their nuclei) embedded in a lipid mixture consisting mainly of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids. Loss of skin lipids result in an increased water loss and increased penetration of harmful compounds, especially for people living in big cities. Continuous use of this serum will alleviate skin dryness and sensitivity.
Squalane: this lipid is derived from olive squalene. The good alternative to mineral oil.
Olive fruit extract: the olive fruit is full of beneficial chemicals especially suited for the skin., among them oleuropein, hydroxytyrosol, caffeic acid, catechin and rutin.
Rosehip oil: this organic, cold pressed oil is made fresh from the seeds of the wild rose (Rosa affinis rubiginosa) that grows in Chile. Rosehip oil is a concentrated solution in linoleic (41%) and linolenic acid (39 %), two essential fatty acids that are found in the structural lipids of the cell but humans cannot synthesize them. It also contains trans-retinoic acid, tocopherols and carotenoids (responsible for the pink/orange color of the oil). In clinical studies with humans, rosehip oil was effective in aiding tissue regeneration in surgical wounds and in the treatment of keloids. This is my favorite oil, cold pressed from seeds of rosa mosqueta in the Andes. This oil does not smell of roses (it is not an essential oil but a "fixed" oil), so don't be surprised.
Pomegranate seed oil: Pomegranate seed oil is rich in a fatty acid unique to this fruit, punicic acid. Pomegranate oil has chemopreventive activity against skin cancer and, very important, it has shown significant inhibition of proliferation of metastatic breast cancer cells, both estradiol-dependent and estradiol independent. Pomegranate seed oil causes breast cancer cells to go to apoptosis (self-destruct). The anti-metastatic effect may be through its anti-angiogenic potential. The oil is also cytotoxic to human monocytic leukemia cells.
Lecithin: Lecithin is a mixture of polar and nonpolar lipids with a polar lipid content of at least 50% from soybean (egg-yolk can also be used). The most important chemical in lecithin is phosphatidylcholine, and lecithin is often used as a synonim for phosphatidylcholine. Lecithin is used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic because of its amphiphilic structure, one extreme of the molecule has affinity for water and the other for non-polar molecules like oil, making lecithins an emulsifier. They are also used to make liposomes, which are essentially large drops of phospholipids enclosing non-polar, oily molecules (like vitamin E), giving them a suitable environment and keeping out the water.
Liquid Crystal: this complex of cholesterol derivatives will supply cholesterol to the skin and will help other actives penetrate the skin. Cholesterol is a crucial component of cell membranes, which govern traffic of metabolites in and out the cell and between cellular compartments.
Phytosterols: this complex includes beta sitosterol, campestrol and sigmasterol. This active will help repair damaged and dry skin, has anti-inflammatory and conditioning properties and will normalize skin turnover.
Ceramides: an intercellular lipid crucial to the role of the skin as a protectant barrier bettween our body and the environment.
Antioxidant booster: this synergistic antioxidant mix is easy to use and will protect skin lipids and membranes. The cell membrane system comprises the membrane that separates the cell from the outside and all internal membranes, any damage to cell membranes will compromise function and even lead to cell death. Contains alpha lipoic acid (ALA). |
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Mon Oct 12, 2009 8:01 pm |
| Riley I remember John Hill talking about how wonderful jojoba esters is as a barrier. It continues to work until it is actually washed off if I remember rightly. |
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Tue Oct 13, 2009 3:55 am |
| Barefootgirl wrote: |
Where is Septembergirl??? She should be all over this one for us!
Are you there SG? We need your help!~
BF |
Hehe, I am right here. 
I agree with rileygirl that fatty acids, ceramides and cholesterol are the key ingredients in a good moisturizer. I know that some people swear by plain oil on their face, but I would rather use a moisturizer that is specially formulated to protect and restore skin.
I found this article from Dr Baumann which might be helpful.
| Quote: |
A good moisturizer can help rebalance the skin barrier and restore your balance of beneficial fats. It is important to use skin care products that have fatty acids (such as stearic acid or evening primrose oil), cholesterol and ceramides in it to repair the skin barrier.
In addition, there are other ingredients that can help moisturize skin. These are divided into two main categories of moisturizer: Occlusive and humectants. Occlusives are oily substances that prevent water from evaporating. Saran wrap, which protects food by sealing in moisture, works in exactly the same way. Humectants are water soluble agents that work by actually drawing water into the skin. This extra moisture causes the skin to plump up a bit, temporarily giving the appearance of smoother skin with fewer wrinkles.
http://www.skintypesolutions.com/newsletters/2008_12/index.html
(Scroll down to "What about moisturizers") |
If you scroll down the article provided, the most common occlusives and humectants are listed, and there is a link to product recommendations. Dr Baumann especially recommends Kinerase Ultra Rich Night Cream, Dove ProAge and Atopalm MLE face cream.
Regarding ingredients listing: I believe ceramides and cholesterol are usually listed as such, whereas fatty acids are "hidden" in various oils such as evening primrose oil, grape seed oil etc. Dr Baumann also recommends ingredients like glycerin amd shea butter.
rileygirl, you mentioned that you want to prep your skin prior to a series of peels. You may want to consider a product containing niacinamide/proNAD, which is shown to strengthen skin barrier and is often recommended to be used in conjunction with peels/exfoliating products. |
_________________
Female, 40, Norway. Normal/dry skin, starting to see signs of aging. Staples: Glycolic acid cleanser, SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF, Revaleskin, NIA24. |
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Tue Oct 13, 2009 4:52 am |
Thanks, Septembergirl! That is helpful, and at least I know I am on the right track for what to use after the peel.
I tried the Nia-24 for a while, and I just was not crazy about how my skin looked after 3 months of using it. Almost peachy? Very hard to describe but my skin color changed. I think this time I will stick to my "tried and true" of Retin A and C, with some AHA thrown in a week or so before the peel.
I knew you would come along to help, Septembergirl! 
Thanks, Mishey for the recommendation of jojoba oil! |
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Tue Oct 13, 2009 7:30 am |
you all know me by now: party-spoiler
I remember reading in my derm textbooks that studies revealed that in order to effectively restore the barrier, the three need to be in a certain "molar ratio" - some ratios help the skin and others can actually delay healing 
So some formulas will work and some won't.
Septembergirl, do you know where we can find a list of the typical ingredients that would be examples of each category?
thanks, BF |
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Tue Oct 13, 2009 7:34 am |
| Barefootgirl wrote: |
you all know me by now: party-spoiler
I remember reading in my derm textbooks that studies revealed that in order to effectively restore the barrier, the three need to be in a certain "molar ratio" - some ratios help the skin and others can actually delay healing
So some formulas will work and some won't.
Septembergirl, do you know where we can find a list of the typical ingredients that would be examples of each category?
thanks, BF |
Yes, I believe it is a 2:1:1. There are a few prescription barrier repair products out there with that ratio. The only over the counter product I have found that specifically mentions the ratio is Jouviance.
http://www.eskinstore.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=1169&idproduct=6229#details |
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Tue Oct 13, 2009 7:52 am |
Not sure if any of this will be useful, but I'll post links (if nothing more than for me to remember!).
Ceramides are a specific class of lipids belonging to the group of sphingolipids. A sphingolipid is a general term for all lipids containing sphingosine, phytosphingosine or sphinganine as a basic building block. Among the sphingolipids, the ceramides are the most abundant lipids present in the stratum corneum. In mammalian skin, seven predominantly occurring ceramides have been identified. These are mentioned ceramide 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6I and 6II (as defined in Wertz et al., (1985) J. Invest. Dermatol. 84, 410-412 and Kerscher et al. (1991), Eur. J. Dermat. 1, 39-43).
Article about barrier repair from dermadoctor:
http://www.dermadoctor.com/article_Ceramide-Barrier-Repair_345.html
Topical ointment containing cholesterol:
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/5179086.html |
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Tue Oct 13, 2009 8:10 am |
Thanks for the additional information. When looking at a list of ingredients on a tube, it's kind of hard to know.."ok, this is a ceramide, ok, this is a cholesterol..etc." LOL
BF |
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Tue Oct 13, 2009 8:39 am |
| Barefootgirl wrote: |
Thanks for the additional information. When looking at a list of ingredients on a tube, it's kind of hard to know.."ok, this is a ceramide, ok, this is a cholesterol..etc." LOL
BF |
I agree! Hopefully Septembergirl has more info to share with us. I think Lacy53 needs to come on over, as well. She can find some information!! |
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Tue Oct 13, 2009 8:50 am |
| Barefootgirl wrote: |
you all know me by now: party-spoiler
I remember reading in my derm textbooks that studies revealed that in order to effectively restore the barrier, the three need to be in a certain "molar ratio" - some ratios help the skin and others can actually delay healing
So some formulas will work and some won't.
Septembergirl, do you know where we can find a list of the typical ingredients that would be examples of each category?
thanks, BF |
Yes, in the article from Dr Baumann, that I posted above, she too told that cholesterol, fatty acids and ceramides must be present in the right ratio to keep skin moist and healthy.
As she is an experienced dermatologist and respected skin care researcher, I believe that the moisturizers that she recommends contain these three ingredients in the optimal ratio and should work fine for people with normal or slightly dry skin.
However, those who suffer from eczema should choose products that are designed to treat this skin condition. People who suffer from eczema have fewer ceramides in the outermost layer of the skin, hence need to use special products to replace the ceramides.
I believe that key is to choose the right product for your skin type. A person with healthy skin would probably not benefit from extra ceramides in a formulation designed for eczema.
I found this list of ceramide moisturizers that are supposed to heal eczema. The list is apparently based on moisturizers that are proven effective.
http://dermatology.about.com/od/skincareproducts/tp/Ceramide_moisturizers.htm
BFgirl, I am not sure what you mean by "typical ingredients that would be examples of each category". I think that cholesterol and ceramides are listed in the ingredients lists - not hidden in other ingredients, whereas fatty acids are present in a lot of oils (olive, evening primrose, grape seed etc). Sorry, I cannot give a better answer.  |
_________________
Female, 40, Norway. Normal/dry skin, starting to see signs of aging. Staples: Glycolic acid cleanser, SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF, Revaleskin, NIA24. |
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Tue Oct 13, 2009 9:41 am |
Hi (Riley,Barefoot,and September) Girls!+ Mischey,
Always enjoy gleaning from your collective wisdom here. Just today I saw something that caught my attention w/regard to skin barrier repair. Panthenol (ProVit. B5) spray. Supposed to be a great at keeping skin moisturized and plumped up (anti-aging effects)- but also for wound healing because when absorbed plays an important role in the metabolism of skin cells- necessary for the regeneration of skin cells.
Anyone ever tried this? It´s cheap for that matter.
('')Flannery |
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Flan, 48 olive skin, tends t.b. oily, love SkinCeuticals CE+Ferulic (live in Germany) |
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Tue Oct 13, 2009 10:39 am |
| Hi, Flannery. Sorry I can't help you with that as I have not tried the Panthenol. Maybe Septembergirl or Barefootgirl have? |
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Wed Oct 14, 2009 1:10 am |
| Sorry, that link didn't work for the third article I mentioned. I guess you can find it by entering the article's title into your browser and do a manual search for it. |
_________________
Born 1953; Blonde-Blue; Normal skin |
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Wed Oct 14, 2009 5:00 am |
| Thank you, Lacy. I will check them out! |
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havana8
Moderator
 
Joined: 09 Sep 2005
Posts: 3451
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Wed Oct 14, 2009 2:54 pm |
| Lacy53 wrote: |
| Sorry, that link didn't work for the third article I mentioned. I guess you can find it by entering the article's title into your browser and do a manual search for it. |
The link should work now. HTHs. |
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Fri Oct 16, 2009 11:17 am |
| rileygirl wrote: |
I am starting to prep my skin to do a series of peels and I am interested in barrier repair products to go along with this. From what I have read, a topical with ceramides, cholesterol, and other lipids seems to be a good choice.
I would like recommendations for barrier repair products and any thoughts on this subject! |
This product, Nouriva, includes ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol, has anyone ever tried it?
http://www.dermstore.com/product_Nouriva+Repair+Moisturizing+Cream_3361.htm |
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Fri Oct 16, 2009 11:40 am |
| Thank you, jom. I'll check them out. BTW, sorry, I have not used the Remedy Cx, so can't help you on that one! |
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