Looking for a daily glycolic moisturizer
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Tue Apr 17, 2012 6:59 pm

I've been doing a little research on glycolic acid for reducing acne and roughness of skin. I'm leaning towards a moisturizer at about 10%. I dont want something harsh that will cause peeling or redness, rather something that will add effective exfoliation to my routine. I have looked at Peter Thomas Roth 10% glycolic moisturizer, but could not find any info on EDS about it. Has anyone tried it? Or does anyone have any Other product recommendations?

free skin care · Tue Apr 17, 2012 7:39 pm

I like the Vivite line, and Allergan spends a fortune on R&D to ensure that the products work and minimize irritation.

free skin care · Tue Apr 17, 2012 11:03 pm

I just started using Alpha Hydrox 10% Glycolic cream that I bought on Amazon. It got great reviews, and I don't find it too strong.

free skin care · Wed Apr 18, 2012 9:52 am

I like Reviva Lab Renaissance Glycolic Cream. It comes in 5% and 10% concentration. It has great reviews. I'd recommend you start with 5% though as it does sting a little.

http://www.vitacost.com/reviva-labs-5-glycolic-acid-renaissance-cream

Wed Apr 18, 2012 11:17 am

Thanks for the suggestions! Any product labelled as a cream kind of scares me. I'm prone to milia on my cheeks and around my mouth, so I stay away from anything too rich. How are these creams un regards to thickness?

free skin care · Wed Apr 18, 2012 11:34 am

The Alpha Hydrox isn't too creamy, in my opinion, and it sinks in rather quickly. It doesn't have the most pleasant scent, but that goes away within a couple minutes after application.

free skin care · Wed Apr 18, 2012 11:35 am

CindyLouise wrote:

Thanks for the suggestions! Any product labelled as a cream kind of scares me. I'm prone to milia on my cheeks and around my mouth, so I stay away from anything too rich. How are these creams un regards to thickness?

HI,
I am not oily but really prefer serums to creams, This is an 8% Glycolic cream yet super light in texture: Walgreen's Brand AHA face cream

http://www.walgreens.com/store/c/walgreens-alpha-hydroxy-face-cream/ID=prod5822041-product

Here is the EDS thread:

Gold In A Jar -- Walgreen's Brand Alpha Hydroxy Cream

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=39426

Wed Apr 18, 2012 11:49 am

Im in Canada, no Walgreens for me Crying or Very sad

I read through the link you sent anyways. It's nice to see products that work, that don't cost and arm and a leg.

free skin care · Wed Apr 18, 2012 11:51 am

CindyLouise wrote:

Im in Canada, no Walgreens for me Crying or Very sad

I read through the link you sent anyways. It's nice to see products that work, that don't cost and arm and a leg.

You can't order online? That is a shame it is so nice and reasonably priced! Sad

free skin care · Wed Apr 18, 2012 3:36 pm

Dr. Brown formulated a really nice one for ReVive skin care line. It is sold at Holt Renfrew.

Thu Apr 19, 2012 12:24 am

CindyLouise wrote:

I've been doing a little research on glycolic acid for reducing acne and roughness of skin. I'm leaning towards a moisturizer at about 10%. I dont want something harsh that will cause peeling or redness, rather something that will add effective exfoliation to my routine. I have looked at Peter Thomas Roth 10% glycolic moisturizer, but could not find any info on EDS about it. Has anyone tried it? Or does anyone have any Other product recommendations?

Hi Cindy

I’m a fan (10+ years) of using acids in combinations. From what you want to address…glycolic is fabulous for skin roughness but maybe not the best for acne and it can certainly cause irritation/peeling/redness if skin is not accustomed to it. You might prefer to combine it with gluconolactone (a PHA polyhydroxy acid) that exfoliates too but also is an anti-irritant, anti-inflammatory, anti-acne and anti-oxidant (also less UV-sensitivity but I don’t know that’s a concern for you). If you are new to glycolic, you might also consider using a treatment format as opposed to a moisturizer (better control of time it’s on your skin so you can build up strength gradually)

So, even though I know you asked for glycolic moisturizer recommendations, I’d also suggest looking at Neostrata Skin Renewal Peel Solution which is a slow-release glycolic/gluconolactone combination acid treatment to be used a couple of times a week for a few mins. Makeupalley has over 50 reviews on this with 87% intending to repurchase, and lots of detailed info on impact on acne, skin roughness etc. Worth a glance through.

In case of interest: Neostrata’s AHA technology (via their research branch Tristrata Technologies) has previously been licensed out to most major skincare players in the world including Allergan, Avon, Biersdorf, Unilever, Elizabeth Arden, Erno Lazlo, J&J, MD Formulations, Peter Thomas Roth. L’Oreal, Chanel and Murad were all sued for patent infringement and settled out of court before buying their licenses, and I guess Walgreens, CVS an Rite-Aid too as they were certainly sued as well. (Mary Kay were sued, refused to settle and were ordered to pay over $40million USD in 2007 Shock

). Loads more companies had agreements too, either directly or via a pass-through agreement with Dupont. Even though Neostrata/Tristrata patents are starting to expire since 2009, I’d still consider them absolutely cutting-edge in glycolic acid and combo-acid skincare. But the patent and license stuff can make it difficult to get hold of some products affected by it in all countries.

As another alternative, to tackle acne and skin roughness (and minimise peeling & redness), you might look at salicylic acid toner if you are not pregnant/nursing (anti-acne and anti-inflammatory) layered under a low(er) level glycolic moisturizer (for skin roughness). All the suggestions you have already for glycolic moisturizers look great to me too…especially the Vivite one! And for glycolic-only I’ve personally also used the Alpha-H range of toners, moisturizers and masks before and would recommend them too.

Good luck with your search!

And sorry this post is so long Embarassed

free skin care · Thu Apr 19, 2012 2:08 am

This is interesting I used Avon's Anew (yep one of the few products from Avon ever)

I posted this back in 2010 with a link to a site that is now gone. On this thread:

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?p=6391461&highlight=avon+anew#6391461

In 1992 Avon became the first beauty company to bring technology that uses alpha hydroxy acids in cosmetics to the mass market, said Amy Chasen, an analyst with Goldman Sachs who follows the household and personal-care product industries.

free skin care · Thu Apr 19, 2012 2:31 am

On that same thread I posted this on the next page NeoStrata is credited in the one article,:

http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0EIN/is_2000_July_25/ai_63662476/

Face Facts: Debunking The AHA Myths; NeoStrata's Doctors Van Scott and Yu, Discoverers of Alpha Hydroxyacids, Address Issues of Benefits and Effects for Skin Care

MYTH: AHAs over-exfoliate the skin, leaving the skin vulnerable to environmental aggressors.
FACT: "Alpha Hydroxyacids work to normalize cell renewal," says Dr. Van Scott. He goes on to explain that AHAs do not exfoliate the skin in the conventional way that other chemical (i.e., salicylic acid) and mechanical (i.e., loofah) exfoliants affect the skin. While there is a brief period of surface exfoliation that may occur following initial use, AHAs affect the skin by normalizing cell turnover in the epidermis (the top layers of the skin), encouraging the formation of normal, healthy skin. This is a benefit that is unique to AHAs and is not found with other chemical or mechanical exfoliants which work by continuously removing the top layers of skin.
In addition, Drs. Van Scott and Yu urge consumers to use common sense to fully maximize the benefits of AHAs on their skin. For example, skin is always more susceptible to sun exposure after any type of cosmetic procedure (AHA application, laser treatment, micro-dermabrasion, etc.). As a result, a strict sun avoidance program and use of a well-formulated sunscreen are required until the skin has fully healed. It is also recommended that daytime use of AHA products be accompanied by daily SPF 15 sunscreen use.

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/8642081

RESULTS: Treatment with AHAs caused an approximate 25% increase in skin thickness. The epidermis was thicker and papillary dermal changes included increased thickness, increased acid mucopolysaccharides, improved quality of elastic fibers, and increased density of collagen. No inflammation was evident.

CONCLUSION: Treatment with AHAs produced significant reversal of epidermal and dermal markers of photoaging.

PMID: 8642081 [PubMed - indexed for MEDLINE]

http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1346-8138.2006.00003.x/abstract

Keywords:
Alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA);collagen I;photo-damaged skin;procollagen I;TUNEL
ABSTRACT
Alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) agents, such as glycolic acid and lactic acid, have been used as therapeutic agents for more than a quarter of a century. Recently, they have been used as agents to rejuvenate photo-aged skin. It is believed that these AHA agents induce the epidermis to remodel and accelerate desquamation, thus exerting their therapeutic effects. In this study, we investigated the histological differences in skin treated with glycolic, lactic, citric and acetic acids once daily for 6 weeks. The melanin pigments in the basal layer were less prominent in the glycolic and lactic acid-treated skin than in the citric and acetic acid-treated skin. The melanin deposits in the horny layers were equal for all AHA. However, the melanin deposits in the squamous layers were less prominent in the glycolic and lactic acid-treated skins than in the citric and acetic acid-treated skins; this was analogous to observations of the basal layers. Collagen I and procollagen I were increased after treatment with glycolic, lactic and citric acid in the upper dermis, but were not increased with acetic acid treatment. However, the staining of the epidermis and dermis for matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) after treatment was not significantly different among the agents. Our data suggest that longer treatment intervals with glycolic and lactic acid can cause improvements in both the epidermal and dermal components and support the usefulness of AHA for rejuvenating photo-damaged skin.

http://www.eblue.org/article/S0190-9622(96)70002-6/abstract

Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology
Volume 34, Issue 2 , Pages 187-195, February 1996
Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study [see comments]
CM Ditre, TD Griffin, GF Murphy, H Sueki, B Telegan, WC Johnson, RJ Yu, EJ Van Scott
Abstract
Abstract
BACKGROUND: alpha-Hydroxy acids (AHAs) have been reported to improve aging skin. The mechanisms of action of AHAs on epidermal and dermal compartments need clarification. OBJECTIVE: Our purpose was to determine the effects of AHAs on photoaged human skin by clinical and microanalytic means. METHODS: Patients applied a lotion containing 25% glycolic, lactic, or citric acid to one forearm and a placebo lotion to the opposite forearm for an average of 6 months. Thickness of forearm skin was measured throughout the study. Biopsy specimens from both forearms were processed for analysis at the end of the study. RESULTS: Treatment with AHAs caused an approximate 25% increase in skin thickness. The epidermis was thicker and papillary dermal changes included increased thickness, increased acid mucopolysaccharides, improved quality of elastic fibers, and increased density of collagen. No inflammation was evident. CONCLUSION: Treatment with AHAs produced significant reversal of epidermal and dermal markers of photoaging. (J Am Acad Dermatol 1996 Feb;34(2 Pt 1):187-95)[/quote]

Thu Apr 19, 2012 2:40 am

I also used the Anew! both Blue and Gold tops! Also my one and only Avon experience too. And I'm not ashamed of it Laughing

Loved that stuff

But the Neostrata/Tristrata patents (as I understand them) were different because they focused on combinations of AHA+ other acids (or variants like PHAs) and using glycolic to deliver other actives more effectively/gently...a good couple of years after the Avon work and launches.

And I will say this - although they mayn't ever fully overcome their "mumsy" image, I do think Avon has done a lot great research in skincare and still does Very Happy

ETA: we crossed posts and I still can't say "thank you"...so thanks for the links they are really interesting

free skin care · Thu Apr 19, 2012 2:48 am

felixia wrote:

I also used the Anew! both Blue and Gold tops! Also my one and only Avon experience too. And I'm not ashamed of it Laughing

Loved that stuff

But the Neostrata/Tristrata patents (as I understand them) were different because they focused on combinations of AHA+ other acids and using glycolic to deliver other actives more effectively/gently...a good couple of years after the Avon work and launches.

And I will say this - although they mayn't ever fully overcome their "mumsy" image, I do think Avon has done a lot great research in skincare and still does Very Happy

I was an avid user of the Anew for several years, The only reason I stopped was my major move over 1000 miles, I lost my Avon Rep and just never found a new one.
I think that was a major turning point for Avon as far as upping the brand.

free skin care · Thu Apr 19, 2012 2:50 am

felixia wrote:

I also used the Anew! both Blue and Gold tops! Also my one and only Avon experience too. And I'm not ashamed of it Laughing

Loved that stuff

But the Neostrata/Tristrata patents (as I understand them) were different because they focused on combinations of AHA+ other acids (or variants like PHAs) and using glycolic to deliver other actives more effectively/gently...a good couple of years after the Avon work and launches.

And I will say this - although they mayn't ever fully overcome their "mumsy" image, I do think Avon has done a lot great research in skincare and still does Very Happy

ETA: we crossed posts and I still can't say "thank you"...so thanks for the links they are really interesting

LOL. No worries I hearted your post so it is all good!

I am glad the links are helpful. Very Happy

Thu Apr 19, 2012 2:57 am

DarkMoon wrote:

I was an avid user of the Anew for several years, The only reason I stopped was my major move over 1000 miles, I lost my Avon Rep and just never found a new one.
I think that was a major turning point for Avon as far as upping the brand.

I agree completely. I was in college and borrowed Cool

it from my mother when I was home for vacation. I still could not believe how it could make a difference so fast...and people were talking about this "acid stuff" like how could it possibly come from such a cute and cuddly company as Avon Bad Grin

free skin care · Thu Apr 19, 2012 3:18 am

felixia wrote:

DarkMoon wrote:

I was an avid user of the Anew for several years, The only reason I stopped was my major move over 1000 miles, I lost my Avon Rep and just never found a new one.
I think that was a major turning point for Avon as far as upping the brand.

I agree completely. I was in college and borrowed Cool

it from my mother when I was home for vacation. I still could not believe how it could make a difference so fast...and people were talking about this "acid stuff" like how could it possibly come from such a cute and cuddly company as Avon Bad Grin

That is too funny about the acid stuff! I had 4 kids of my own by the time I tried the Anew and I heard from many friends and family "what are you using on your skin?" I know it works! Laughing

Thu Apr 19, 2012 10:00 am

Oh my goodness! Thank you, thank you, thank you everyone! You have all been so helpful.

Looking into the Vivite line, I found Vivite Daily Facial Moisturizer SPF 30 with 12% glycolic acid. I've been looking for a new sunscreen anyways, so this sounds interesting! However, I'm not sure what % I should be looking for. My skin isn't all that sensitive, but I definitely don't want bad peelies or a lot of redness. Of course some flaking is understandable though.

Ingredients list:
Active Ingredients: Octinoxate 7.5%, Octisalate 5.0%, Oxybenzone 6.0%

Inactive Ingredients: Purified Water, Glycolic Acid (and) Ammonium Glycolate, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Silica, PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Bis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone, Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Superoxide Dismutase, Camellia Oleifera (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides, Butylene Glycol, Steareth-10, Steareth-20, Cetearyl Alcohol, Coco-Glucoside, Xanthan Gum Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

I also looked into the Neostrata line. It looks like it will be easier to get in Canada, which is nice. However, I could not find a complete list on ingredients for their products online, and that kind of puts me off. The only oil-free lotion I could find was Oil Free Daytime Smoothing Lotion Level 3. It has 20% glycolic acid, which seems like too much for a beginner. They have creams at different levels of glycolic acid, but again, the word cream scares me.

This is a bit off topic, but I also found an interesting product from Eminence called Eminence Strawberry Rhubarb Dermafoliant with Lactic Acid. I'm only 22, so the anti-aging properties of glycolic acid aren't too important to me yet. Really, all I need is a product to increase cell turnover to help with rough patches and pimples. Here are the ingredients:
Rice Starch, Chick Pea Flour, Thermal Mud, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Oat Starch, Colloidal Oatmeal, Powdered Herbal Oatstraw Extract, Titanium Dioxide, Salicylic Acid (soy derived), Papain, Black Walnut Extract, Alfalfa Leaf Extract, Horsetail Extract, Grapefruit Seed Extract, Green Tea Extract, Dehydrated Strawberry Extract, Strawberry Fruit Seed, Rhubarb Root Extract, White Willow Bark Extract, Grape Leaf Oil, Silica, Lactic Acid, Licorice Root Extract, Moroccan Lava Clay, Potato Starch, Biocomplex™ (Vitamin A, Vitamin C Ester, Vitamin E, Coenzyme Q10, Alpha Lipoic Acid), Burdock Root, Ginkgo Extract.

Then again, maybe I should stick with glycolic acid? I don't know! The more I look, the more confused I get! I think I'm leaning towards Vivite, but if you think glycolic acid may not be the way to go, I might try the Eminence dermfoliant. Which would you suggest?

free skin care · Thu Apr 19, 2012 11:13 am

It is difficult to say use this, at least for me. We are all unique and I have never had irritation from anything on my skin. Most do tolerate AHA's well, as a matter of fact some buy the Walgreen's cream and add more to it!

If you know your skin is tolerant you should be fine with either.

I agree about not finding a full list of ingredients posted on any site selling a product, I want to know what is in anything I buy!

free skin care · Thu Apr 19, 2012 11:21 am

For me Mandelic Acid (15% serum by Vivant) works the best - both anti-acne and anti-aging.

I also would use a separate mostly phys. sun protection (pref. with high UVA and UVB numbers), and use acid at night.

I am also prone to millia, but use light oils (oils like Argan or Arcs (argan + cactus)) - and it works quite well for me.

You also have to examine your diet and supplements (millia usually signals liver/gallbladder issues in alternative med.).

HTH

free skin care · Thu Apr 19, 2012 11:53 am

CindyLouise wrote:

I also looked into the Neostrata line. It looks like it will be easier to get in Canada, which is nice. However, I could not find a complete list on ingredients for their products online, and that kind of puts me off. The only oil-free lotion I could find was Oil Free Daytime Smoothing Lotion Level 3. It has 20% glycolic acid, which seems like too much for a beginner. They have creams at different levels of glycolic acid, but again, the word cream scares me.

Neostrata Level 3 products (in Canada) are 10% glycolic acid, not 20%. They make both a lotion and a cream for face application (as you said); the cream formula is very light on the skin and doesn't clog pores. Both products are a little expensive but will last a long while, so it's economical in the long run. Neostrata also has a 10% body lotion without sunscreen (240 mL) which can be used on the face.

I have used both the facial cream (10%) and body lotion (10%) by Neostrata, and both products are very effective for exfoliating and moisturizing. Just be careful if you have any active acne; the products can sting/burn.

free skin care · Thu Apr 19, 2012 4:43 pm

Wow this is my first post Very Happy

Just have to say lucky you being in Canada because you have a great range of Neostrata products. I purchased quite a few bits while I was on holiday there!
For beginners Id recommend the Oil Free Smoothing Lotion level 2 to use at night. I know they have SPF and AHA products but Ive heard of people still getting burnt using them.

Fri Apr 20, 2012 6:14 am

Alright, I've made up my mind! I'm going to try out Neostrata. I'm thinking that I will start off with once every over day for the first few times. I don't want to over do it. Thanks for the help everyone! I'll let you know how it goes!

free skin care · Fri Apr 20, 2012 6:28 am

CindyLouise wrote:

Alright, I've made up my mind! I'm going to try out Neostrata. I'm thinking that I will start off with once every over day for the first few times. I don't want to over do it. Thanks for the help everyone! I'll let you know how it goes!

Hi CindyLouise,

That sounds like a great plan, keep us posted how it works out for you.

Keeping fingers crossed you love your results! Very Happy

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