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Fri Mar 25, 2016 11:18 pm  |
Hello!
I am a newbie at DIY and I came across Kassy's recipes for a DIY Vitamin C serum. I have looked at both versions A and B and I had some questions I was hoping someone could answer.
Can I use glycerin (vegetable based) instead of SKB?
What are the weighted amounts required for a 15% vitamin c serum with 1% HA, ferulic, Vitamin E, glycerin, and distilled water?
Can I used rubbing alcohol (70%) instead of vodka for the ferulic acid?
Any feedback/advice would be much appreciated.
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Sun Mar 27, 2016 7:22 pm |
please don't use rubbing alcohol.
It is toxic for your skin.
I have to same problem!
Alcohol can be difficult to buy.
After much research on the internet, i found this info:
Alcohol=Ethanol
Alcohol is heavily taxed and controlled by the government like cigarettes.
You can
a) buy it from a lab supply shop though they may not sell it to you
b) get a permit from the Australia government explaining what you require the alcohol for
All Pure Ethanol products may be purchased without a permit from the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms (BATF). Pure Ethanol Alcohol is considered 'Taxable Alcohol'. The Federal Government requires an excise tax of $13.50/proof gallon (200 Proof, Pure Alcohol = $27.00/Wine Gallon).
Don't be fooled into getting the wrong alcohol
https://www.medshop.com.au/products/whiteley-microl-70-ethanol-filtered-to-02-micron-500ml
I was excited when i found this but they replied that
"The manufacturer has confirmed that above item is a Special mentholated spirit with contains Methanol which is a denatured alcohol."
I do not like SD alcohol(cheap but toxic ingredients added so we can't drink it).
Not to put on my precious skin 
It is known in many names in different parts of the world.
You may also know it as
-denatured alcohol
- rubbing alcohol
- methanol
- isopropyl alcohol (derived from propene which can come from fossil fuels such as coal, petroleum or natural gas)
- SD alcohol
- ethyl alcohol (derived from corn)
SD alcohol is great for cleaning and sanitising workface/containers.
You can buy get SD Alcohol for cheap and easily at your local pharmacies and in supermarkets here in Australia.
The alternatives are to use Vodka (find the highest strength you can), Sake etc
Here are examples of 95% Alcohol content Polish Voka
http://beerstore.com.au/shop/spirits/polish-pure-spirit-rectified-spirit-95/
http://www.jimscellars.com.au/_product/view-product/akwawit-polmos-spirytus-rektyfikowany-95?id=98d0f5c3dea8231b49fae1c6617f16be&key=HvYFlt
I managed to find a grain alcohol at 51% strength for under AUD$5 for 500ml
Ferulic is also soluble in
- hot water (dispersible in hot water, produces a milky yellow, rather than clear solution, Don't BOIL your FA....it will stink over time . Also...do Not microwave it.
- Propylene Glycol
- Propanediol
- Ethoxydiglycol (EDG)
- Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI)
- Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH)
Ferulic Solubility
Water 0.09g/100ml
95% Ethanol 10.14g/100ml
40% Ethanol 2.68g/100ml
Glycerin 1.34g/100ml
Propylene Glycol 7.9g/100l
If you are trying to dupe the SkinCeuticals recipe you can try to dissolve
0.5% Ferulic
20% Ethoxydiglycol
10% Propylene Glycol
3% Glycerine |
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Sun Mar 27, 2016 7:27 pm |
| Arialily22 wrote: |
Hello!
Can I use glycerin (vegetable based) instead of SKB?
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Yes you can but note why SKB is used. SKB has lots of nutrients for your skin. You can buy it here:
http://stores.skinessentialactives.com/sea-kelp-bioferment-ferment-extract/
You can use glycerin but i would limit it to a maximum of 10%. The recommended dosage is 2-5%. Too much and it will feel sticky. |
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Sun Mar 27, 2016 7:35 pm |
Thanks for the replies. I will consider the alternatives to use for the ferulic acid--maybe the warm water or just vodka I guess. I wanted to use everclear the really potent one but it's illegal/not available where I am (Cali).
Question about Vitamin E oil:
Do you guys think it is better to use mixed tocopherols or D-Alpha Tocopherol?
Where do you guys like to purchase your stuff? I know lotioncrafters is popular as is skin essential actives (to name a couple) but where do you guys think you get the most "bang out of your buck"?
Thanks again!!! |
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Sun Mar 27, 2016 7:51 pm |
| Arialily22 wrote: |
Hello!
What are the weighted amounts required for a 15% vitamin c serum with 1% HA, ferulic, Vitamin E, glycerin, and distilled water?
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Try this:
LAA 15%
Glycerin 5%
HA 1%
Vitamin E 1%
Ferulic Acid 0.5%
Alcohol 0.5% to dissolve Ferulic
Distilled H2O Q.S.
Triethanolamine or Citric Acid 50% to adjust pH (as required) |
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Sun Mar 27, 2016 8:00 pm |
| Arialily22 wrote: |
Question about Vitamin E oil:
Do you guys think it is better to use mixed tocopherols or D-Alpha Tocopherol?
Thanks again!!! |
http://www.smartskincare.com/nutrition/mixedtocopherols.html
Taken from Dr Todorov website:
Mixed tocopherols
Alpha tocopherol, the main ingredient in most vitamin E supplements, is a well-documented antioxidant. However, every antioxidant has a limited range of targets, i.e. it is effective only against particular kinds of free radicals. Other tocopherols, beta, delta and most importantly gamma, are related but distinct compound with a somewhat different antioxidant range. They complement and enhance the activity of alpha tocopherol. Several studies indicate that mixed tocopherols are more effective than alpha tocopherol in quenching free radical and preventing disease. Notably, one study showed that high doses of alpha tocopherol taken alone reduced the blood levels of gamma tocopherols by 30-50%. This may explain why in some cases high doses of standard vitamin E supplements may do more harm than good. Indeed, it does not pay to fortify one wall of your castle with blocks taken from another wall.
If you are getting from Lotion crafter. Try this
http://www.lotioncrafter.com/vitamin-e-mixed-tocopherols-95.html
Vitamin E 95 is more concentrated.
The lotion Crafter mix containing d-alpha, d-beta, d-gamma and d-delta tocopherols.
T50 has more less concentration of vitamin E, more of the soybean oil base.
I prefer to get Vitamin E Vitamin Capsules as it will last longer than getting a bottle of vitamin E since it is individually encapsuled. It will last you longer and stretch your dollar far better.
I get this vitamin E
It is 100% Vitamin E, All Natural Mixed Tocopherols including D-Alpha Tocopherol, D-Beta Tocopherol, D-Delta Tocopherol & D-Gamma Tocopherol. No fillers. Long expiry of over 2 years in Dec 2018 too.
more information on this Vitamin E discussion thread:
http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=46070 |
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Sun Mar 27, 2016 8:04 pm |
| Arialily22 wrote: |
Thanks for the replies. I will consider the alternatives to use for the ferulic acid--maybe the warm water or just vodka I guess. I wanted to use everclear the really potent one but it's illegal/not available where I am (Cali).
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you are gonna need lots of warm water.
remember the solubility i provided
so to get 0.14grams (0.5%) in a 1oz formulae
you will need errm more than 5oz water.
It's not possible unless you have a super low % of FA.
Try to look at high alcohol Sake. They smell nice and probably easier to find.
hope this helps.
You're asking all the right questions. I've done lots of reading on this forum and on the internet to get the answers. I have yet to try the vitamin C serum + FA myself. Have done C serum only. Will be getting from Skin Essential Actives, the owner Dragon is really knowledgeable, she answers questions and the postage is far cheaper than lotioncrafter for us in Australia.
Update us know how you go |
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Sun Mar 27, 2016 11:54 pm |
Thanks for all the feedback. I have spent the last couple weeks just reading up and was hesitant to even purchase the materials. Just figuring what combinations and where to buy everything. I was considering purchasing from lotioncrafters but eh the shipping can be steep (even though I am in the states)!
It's been really NEW! What are your thoughts on using witch hazel for dissolving ferulic acid? |
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Mon Mar 28, 2016 1:23 am |
| Thanks! I checked out the vitamin---reviewers say that although it is advertised as not having soy, it does--and apparently it's GMO. |
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Mon Mar 28, 2016 6:34 pm |
| Arialily22 wrote: |
| Thanks! I checked out the vitamin---reviewers say that although it is advertised as not having soy, it does--and apparently it's GMO. |
You are welcome. I'm a novice like you. doing homework before I dive in. Happy to help you with what little I know. Not sure what happened to the forum, it has been dead quiet & no one had answered my questions re DIYing either.
Thanks for letting me know it is non GMO. I did not realise that. I don't have a problem with Gmo though. Will look into non GMO after I finished this bottle. You get the idea right. Capsules last longer as they prevent oxidation.
Innovative to consider witch hazel. Some have a high content of alcohol but you'll have to experiment with the quantity there. You're on your own there. I m going guess that solubility will vary depending on your alcohol content. Let us know how you go.
I understand Lotioncrafters keep their prices low and they do not incorporate postage into the prices. I agree with you that DIYing is not cheap. Sometimes. It may work out cheaper to buy finished products. Especially if the usage is not high & I require only a small quantity. I hear horror stories of people throwing away many ingredients because it has gone off. There may be swaps in your area.
There are many many more places to buy your supplies. I'll post the links on the computer later. I try to get some ingredients locally to save on post. |
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Mon Mar 28, 2016 7:22 pm |
| Thanks for the help! Much appreciated. Texas natural supply has the cheapest l ascorbic acid. Not sure if it's as finely milled as lotion rafters' but that's something one can do. I needed up purchasing mine on a vitamin site--pure l ascorbic acid powder but not as mine--have to do that myself. Do you know where purchase Sea kelp bioferment? I found bulkactives but the shipping was crazyyyy. Almost as much as the actual product. |
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Tue Mar 29, 2016 3:27 am |
You are most welcome. I wish there were more to help. I got my LAA at my local pharmacy/chemist. it is very fine like powder. 125g cost about AUD8+
Try to get a fine LAA. It really helps.
SKB try ncnpro skincare (apparently best price in skb)
i haven't really looked. I was just going to buy mine at stores.skinessentialactives.com instead of many many stores
Have compiled a list of suppliers for DIYers.
See the thread here:
http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?p=6541461#6541461 |
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Tue Mar 29, 2016 3:45 pm |
How lucky! Over here they don't sell you L-ascorbic acid (or any of the other stuff)! Which is funny since l-ascorbic acid is used as a supplement  They sell it online through vitamin stores (i herb, vitacost). I plan on purchasing mine via those sites---i'll have to make it more fine myself but eh it's better value for me. I heard that ncnpro skincare has the best price for SKB but for 2 oz its like $19 US whereas on bulkactives for almost $12 you get almost 9 oz. Then again the shipping on the latter is expensive--so maybe ncnpro comes out to be cheaper. |
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Tue Mar 29, 2016 3:50 pm |
REGARDING Vitamin E:
There are two products I have found there seem to be great:
If you want all the 4 Tocopherols + 4 Tocotrienols
NutriGold Vitamin E Gold
If you just want d-alpha tocopheryl:
Swanson Premium
Natural Vitamin E from Non-GMO Sunflower Oil |
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Tue Mar 29, 2016 3:53 pm |
Have any of you used hyaluronic acid powder?
I want to purchase some to make my own hyaluronic acid serum and to possibly use in my vitamin c serum. I know there are different hyaluronic acid powders (different molecular weight) I was wondering, which one I should get?
Thanks a bunch!! |
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Tue Mar 29, 2016 6:39 pm |
| Arialily22 wrote: |
| How lucky! Over here they don't sell you L-ascorbic acid (or any of the other stuff)! Which is funny since l-ascorbic acid is used as a supplement They sell it online through vitamin stores (i herb, vitacost). I plan on purchasing mine via those sites---i'll have to make it more fine myself but eh it's better value for me. I heard that ncnpro skincare has the best price for SKB but for 2 oz its like $19 US whereas on bulkactives for almost $12 you get almost 9 oz. Then again the shipping on the latter is expensive--so maybe ncnpro comes out to be cheaper. |
nice detective work. I never knew why they promoted ncnpro... $19 for 2 oz isn't cheap at all. How many stores did you look at?
I'll stick to a few stores, not too many.
What if you try buying from 1 or 2 website that can supply you with all the ingredients and has a best overall price?
http://stores.skinessentialactives.com/sea-kelp-bioferment-ferment-extract/
30g / 1oz $2.85
115g / 4oz $6.75
300g / 9oz $13.25
https://www.bulkactives.com/product/product/sea-kelp-bioferment-seakelp-ferment.html/sea%20kelp?search=sea%20kelp
250g / 8.82oz $11.60
550g / 19.40oz $21.90
Buy what you need and will use up in 2 years.
There are many other wonderful uses for SKB. So if you are intending to make other skincare serums like Niacinamide/ Vitamin B3, you can use SKB again.
L-Absorbic Acid is cheaper in iHerb.
http://au.iherb.com/now-foods-vitamin-c-crystals-8-oz-227-g/413?rcode=dtk831
$11.07 for 227g
Expiry almost 2 years.
The service is excellent and i like their free delivery and reward system.
You get 10% of your purchases to spend on your next order.
You may use my coupon code "DTK831" if you are buying for the first time.
You get USD5 off on your 1st purchase. |
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Tue Mar 29, 2016 6:48 pm |
| Arialily22 wrote: |
REGARDING Vitamin E:
There are two products I have found there seem to be great:
If you want all the 4 Tocopherols + 4 Tocotrienols
NutriGold Vitamin E Gold
If you just want d-alpha tocopheryl:
Swanson Premium
Natural Vitamin E from Non-GMO Sunflower Oil |
cant find your products. where did you find these? |
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Tue Mar 29, 2016 7:04 pm |
| Arialily22 wrote: |
Have any of you used hyaluronic acid powder?
I want to purchase some to make my own hyaluronic acid serum and to possibly use in my vitamin c serum. I know there are different hyaluronic acid powders (different molecular weight) I was wondering, which one I should get?
Thanks a bunch!! |
You've got exactly the same questions as when i first started researching.
Hyaluronic Acid :
a) Regular Weight (bigger molecule size)
This is good to thicken the consistency of the serum and for moisturising.
http://stores.skinessentialactives.com/hyaluronic-acid/
Mol wt. 1500 Kda. equivalent to 1.5million daltons
http://www.lotioncrafter.com/hyaluronic-acid.html
1.0 - 1.5 Million Daltons
b) Lower Weight (smaller molecule size)
Better Skin Penetration backed up by medical study (see below). It will not thicken the serum, it will be like water consistency when mixed with water.
http://stores.skinessentialactives.com/hyaluronic-acid-super-low-molecular-weight/
Super low molecular weight.
Mol.wt: 0.10×10-6 Kda equivalent up to 100,000Daltons
http://www.lotioncrafter.com/hyaluronic-acid-elmw.html
80,000 - 100,000 Daltons
Medical Study
http://www.lotioncrafter.com/reference/JCDSA_2014052808461004.pdf
Asako Ito, Ookuma Hospital, Nagoya, Japan has published a paper re The Effects of a Hyaluronic Acid Lotion with a Molecular Weight of around 50 - 110 kDa on the Aged Atrophic Skin published in the Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications, 2014,4 150-14. The lotion used in the study was one created by Dr. Fukaya, a Japanese dermatologist. His lotion is, essentially a basic lotion of 2% Hyaluronic Acid of a molecular weight between 80,000 and 110,000 Daltons (80 - 110 kDa) with no other additives other than preservatives.
According to Dr. Fukaya, this lotion has proven helpful for those withdrawing from Topical Steroidal * spam alert *, as a result of treatment of skin conditions like eczema with topical corticorsteroids, as well as soothing Roseacea and improving appearance of fine lines and wrinkles through hydration of the skin.
Most good quality commercially Hyaluronic Acid Serums i found combined different weights of Hyaluronic Acid.
Suggestion:
Use 1% regular weight + 1% low weight Hyaluronic Acid.
Just wondering, what else are you intending to make?
Hope this helps  |
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Thu Mar 31, 2016 12:48 am |
OH YEA I jhave been searching for the past several weeks or so--have yet to order my stuff--will soon. I am purchasing from a couple different sites--buying the L ascorbic acid and vitamin E from vitacost and hyaluronic and ferulic from lotioncrafters. Might wait on the SKB. I have heard great things about it---I wanted to use it for skin products but also for my hair--I have heard it's really good for hair growth.
ALSO from lotioncrafters I was thinking of buying Propylene Glycol (to dissolve the ferulic) and leucidal liquid ( to use as a preservative especially for the hyaluronic acid serum). Debating on whether these are necessary. I didn't really want to add a preservative because I plan on using the product within two weeks.
Regarding hyaluronic acid: Yes I had read about that I was wondering which of the lower molecular weights I should use--lotioncrafters has several. At first I was thinking of getting the absolute lowest and combining that with the highest. Now I am thinking maybe I should just get one in the middle.
REGARDING VITAMIN E
So I can’t list links (because I am a new member)
BUT
The NutriGold Vitamin E Gold is available on vitacost
The Natural Vitamin E from Non-GMO Sunflower Oil is available on the Swanson site
Regarding the Nutricology, Pure Vitamin C, Powder: it says ascorbic acid which I believe is different from the L-ascorbic acid, right?
Thanks!! |
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Thu Mar 31, 2016 4:23 am |
| Arialily22 wrote: |
OH YEA I jhave been searching for the past several weeks or so--have yet to order my stuff--will soon. I am purchasing from a couple different sites--buying the L ascorbic acid and vitamin E from vitacost and hyaluronic and ferulic from lotioncrafters. Might wait on the SKB. I have heard great things about it---I wanted to use it for skin products but also for my hair--I have heard it's really good for hair growth.
ALSO from lotioncrafters I was thinking of buying Propylene Glycol (to dissolve the ferulic) and leucidal liquid ( to use as a preservative especially for the hyaluronic acid serum). Debating on whether these are necessary. I didn't really want to add a preservative because I plan on using the product within two weeks.
Regarding hyaluronic acid: Yes I had read about that I was wondering which of the lower molecular weights I should use--lotioncrafters has several. At first I was thinking of getting the absolute lowest and combining that with the highest. Now I am thinking maybe I should just get one in the middle.
REGARDING VITAMIN E
So I can’t list links (because I am a new member)
BUT
The NutriGold Vitamin E Gold is available on vitacost
The Natural Vitamin E from Non-GMO Sunflower Oil is available on the Swanson site
Regarding the Nutricology, Pure Vitamin C, Powder: it says ascorbic acid which I believe is different from the L-ascorbic acid, right?
Thanks!! |
| hpjrt wrote: |
Most products labelled "ascorbic acid" are, in fact, "l-ascorbic acid". The way to find out for sure is to contact the manufacturer and ask.
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The discussion on Absorbic acid is found here
http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/posting.php?mode=quote&p=125263
if i were you i would aboid propylene glycol. Try EDG or DMI instead if you are buying from lotioncrafter.
if you refer to the study of the efficacy of hyaluronic acid, the size i've recommended 100,000 Daltons should be good. You can try the smallest size. Update us how you go
If you don't have SKB, maybe you can add some aloe vera If not, have you considered buying SKB from lotioncrafter? http://www.lotioncrafter.com/sea-kelp-bioferment.html |
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Fri Sep 30, 2016 9:05 pm |
| This is my first time mixing one of Kassy's Vit C serums. The recipe asks for Hyaluronic Acid Serum and she mentioned NCN has a nice one, however, it is no longer on their website. I found a serum on Skin Actives website, I found a Hyaluronic Acid and a serum that contains hydrolyzed marine collagen. I have no idea which to purchase. |
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Sat Oct 01, 2016 8:37 am |
| Belle Vie wrote: |
| This is my first time mixing one of Kassy's Vit C serums. The recipe asks for Hyaluronic Acid Serum and she mentioned NCN has a nice one, however, it is no longer on their website. I found a serum on Skin Actives website, I found a Hyaluronic Acid and a serum that contains hydrolyzed marine collagen. I have no idea which to purchase. |
Either should work. If I'm looking at the right product, one is a powder that you'll have to mix in water to dissolve first (easy to do). Other is already mixed but has the marine collagen.
You could look for just a pure HA serum. I like the ones from Hado Labo. You can get them on Amazon. Premium is thicker then the lotion and would be my preference. But there are many other brands of pure HA serums. |
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