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Review: Decleor Aroma Sun Protective Antiwrinkle Cream
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Blacklace
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Sun Nov 05, 2006 9:08 am      Reply with quote
Correct me if I am wrong but this range is not available yet on EDS. Purchased in Selfridges, London for £24.50 (50 ML - one size). Using it for 3 months.

Overall comment:

SPF 30, spreads very nicely on the skin and a little goes a long way. Very pleasant light scent that goes away after a few minutes and causes no spots (other sunscreens give me spots). I use on top of Decleor Matt Finish Skin Fluid and it creates no greasy look that some sunscreens tend to do. I then add makeup as usual. I have used this for a month when I was working out of the Caribbean (33/34C) and my make-up stayed on fine and actually looked better. I give this a 9/10 (one point off for my Decleor bias and the bright red packaging which i somehow wish was more soothing like blue. Also see important comment on oxybenzone)

On its antiwrinkle properties I cannot comment but it is a moisturiser/sunscreen in one. Great for the beach au naturel or under makeup. The colour is white in the tube but it does not give a white finish. It says on the box "promotes tanning" with "activ bronze complex" but the Decleor counter assured me that it will not give you a tan unless you combine with an active self tanning cream. I have not seen any tanning effect. It contains molecules to resist water but it is advised to reapply anyway after swimming.

Ingredients:
essential oils of rose, camomile and geranium; 0.1%/plant oils of argan,rice,wheat germ,heliocarrot;2.5%/activ bronze tyrosine,luffa oil;0.5%/wrinkle action stuff is jasmine extract,malt extract;3%.

Filters include 10% octocrylene.

Important note:

Also contains 5% oxybenzone due to high SPF. Oxybenzone is an organic compound used in sunscreens. It is a derivative of benzophenone. It forms colorless crystals that are readily soluble in most organic solvents.

"The British Medical Journal recently showed that sunbathers using some suntan lotions have a higher risk of developing malignant Skin Cancer, and a possible link with Oxybenzone. Oxybenzone is the Chemical used in many sun products with high Sun Protection Factors. Oxybenzone’s function is to ‘filter’ ultra violet light on the surface of the skin, converting it from light to heat, but it can also be absorbed through the skin. As yet we have not seen any research to indicate what happens when the oxybenzone is absorbed through the skin, but UV light causing cell damage is well known and readers may choose to avoid this form of sun protection. If light is converted to heat in the basal layers of the skin, damage to growing cells is very likely."

For those with low sunexposure you may prefer Decleor moisturizers that have SPF 15 such as Aromaessence Bright. Other good alternatives Clinique City Block. Given that with sunscreens one inevitably balances off the ingredients, common sense suncare is the best defense (slip,slap; stay in shade where possible, use parasols,cover-ups etc etc)

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35, combo skin, can be acne prone; use Decleor, PSF 02, SKII products and anything that works including ancient voodoo hee hee. London based.
TheresaL
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Sun Nov 05, 2006 4:16 pm      Reply with quote
Good review Blacklace!

Are the only active ingredients in this octocrylene and oxybenzone? If so then it probably does not live up to the anti-wrinkle claim too well. Neither of those sunscreen ingredients adequately blocks UVA rays which are the ones believed to be most responsible for premature aging. IMO there is no way that this is a good sunscreen if those are the active ingredients. Let me know if there is an acitve ingredient that you missed.
Blacklace
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Sun Nov 05, 2006 4:31 pm      Reply with quote
TL,

There are other filters; highest % ones if you are interested are:

octinoxate 7.5%
octisalate 5%
ensulizole 5%

...a myriad of other small percentages of other oils that read like a side salad but like most Decleor products there are no other high percentage antiwrinkle actives.

HTH

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35, combo skin, can be acne prone; use Decleor, PSF 02, SKII products and anything that works including ancient voodoo hee hee. London based.
TheresaL
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Sun Nov 05, 2006 4:55 pm      Reply with quote
Blacklace,
None of those that you just mentioned adequately protect against UVA rays. But if there are more then perhaps one of those is a good UVA filter. I think that they are making the anti-wrinkle claim because the product contains sunscreen ingredients. It seems like we see this claim all the time on products that contain sunscreen since avoiding damaging UV radiation is the #1 thing that we can do to prevent premature aging.
Theresa
Blacklace
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Sun Nov 05, 2006 5:32 pm      Reply with quote
Theresa,

I used Clinique 40 SPF cityblock on my last project in 40C Rome and still felt my skin on fire but it was the only Clinique product ever to be kind to my skin. Clinique does not list its SPF ingredient so not sure what it is.

Decleor seems to hype up not so much the antiwrinkle angle but that its AromaSun line stimulates the skin's natural defenses against UV rays with plant extracts. It is all a bit existential unless one is a botanist of sorts though they do include some minute graphs on the efficacy impact on keratinocytes.

I did feel a physical difference with this product however. I did not turn red or burn on the tip of my nose when I used this on the face under makeup, even after a day of sailing.

It is becoming fashionable in organic products/sites to dismiss the usefulness or safety of sunblocks altogether though but most big brands will toss something in.

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35, combo skin, can be acne prone; use Decleor, PSF 02, SKII products and anything that works including ancient voodoo hee hee. London based.
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