E
eczema
This acute or chronic inflammation of the skin is char
acterized by red, scaling, itching and oozing lesions;
it’s usually non-contagious. Most treatments for eczema—steroid creams,
for example—are synthetic and irritating to the skin. One natural treatment found to
help eczema is evening primrose oil, taken internally and
applied externally.
edema
Abnormal accumulation of clear, watery fluid in
the lymph spaces of the connective tissue.
EDTA
This is an acronym for ethylene diamine tetra
acetic acid,
a synthetic chemical
that’s used as an an antioxidant and as a "complexing" agent in
shampoos—which means that it binds metallic ions so that the surfactants
can work more effectively. Similar compounds are disodium EDTA and trisodium
EDTA. All are toxic and should be avoided.
EFAs
An abbreviation for essential fatty acids.
essential fatty acids.
effleurage
Alight, stroking movement used in massage.
8-hydroxyquinoline
This toxic, coal tar chemical is used (in
the form of potassium hydroxyquinoline sulfate) as a topical anti
septic in skin creams and lotions, in concentrations
between 0.05% and 0.5%. It’s phototoxic and may cause
cancer (some coal tar colors have been found to be carcinogenic in animal tests). It must
bear a warning on the label that reads: Not for sun protection products, and it isn’t allowed at all in
products for children under three years old. Quinoline is obtained
by the oxidation of aniline and glycerine (the same process used to make artificial colors).
It’s supplied as a yellow (sulfate) or white (sulfate-free)
crystalline powder. Trade Names are Bioquin, Chinosol and Quinosol. Also see colors.
elastin
This dermal protein, similar to collagen and reticulin, is
used as an emollient in some natural cosmetic formu
las. It’s typically an animal byproduct (usually
bovine), but there are herbal (vegetarian) alternatives.
elixir
This term describes a clear hvdroalcoholic liquid used orally in
homeopathic medicine(sweeteners are often added).
emetic
A substance that causes vomiting and is usually used to detoxify.
emmenagogue
A substance that promotes menstrual flow.
emollients
These substances, used topically, prevent water loss, and thus
have a softening and soothing effect on the skin. They can be natural, like almond oil, or
synthetic, like mineral oil.
emulsifiers
Also known as emuls~ying agents, these substances promote the
formation of, and stabilize, emulsions. Emulsifiers can be natural or synthetic.
emulsion
A homogeneous mixture in which small globules of one liquid are
suspended in another liquid with which it won’t mix. Salad dressings, for example,
are emulsions of oil in vinegar or lemonjuice.
endocrine glands
These organs secrete hormones directly into our bloodstreams.
Examples are the thyroid, adrenals and pituitary.
epidermis
The outer, protective layer of the skin, which covers the dermis. Also
called the cuticle.
cuticle.
EPO
An abbreviation for evening primrose oil.
essential amino acids
Amino acids that
can’t be manufactured by the body.
essential fatty acids
Sometimes known as vitamin F (and often abbreviated EE4s,), these substances can’t be manufactured by the body
and must be consumed in the diet. There are three types—linole ic, linolenic and
arachidonic.
The essential fatty acids fulfill many functions in our bodies. They
lubricate, aid in the transportation of oxygen to the cells, help coagulate the blood,
combine with vitamin D to make calcium available to the tissues, regulate glandular
activity, break up cholesterol deposits on arterial walls, maintain healthy mucous
membranes and nerves, assist in the assimilation of phosphorus and help convert carotenoids
to vitamin A.
The more saturated fats we consume, the more important
it is to increase our intake of EFAs. The National Research Council recommends at least 1%
of the daily caloric intake, and this figure should probably be higher. Excellent sources
for unsaturated fatty acids are raw wheat germ, raw sunflower seeds, butter and
cold-pressed vegetable oils.
Essential fatty acids are used in the production of sebum,
your skin’s own natural oil, so including these
substances in skin care products makes good sense. The essential fatty acids tend to be bacteriostatic.
essential oils
The odor-bearing constituents of plants, essential oils are complex
mixtures of alcohols, ketones, phenols, acids, ethers, aldehvcles, esters, oxides
and sulfur
compounds (among others).
They’re also called volatile oils, ethereal oils, essences or absolutes.
ester
An organic compound formed from an acid and an alcohol,
an ester is the organic equivalent of a salt.
esthetician
See aesthetician.
estrogen
This female sex hormone is usually synthesized for drug use. The use of
hormones externally or internally is dangerous. Also see hormone.
ethanol (or ethyl alcohol)
This colorless, volatile liquid with a burning taste is well-known to
most of us as the active ingredient in alcoholic beverages; in fact, ethanol is commonly
called simply "alcohol," although there are many other kinds of alcohols.
Ethanol is widely used in cosmetics as a solvent and as
an antibacterial agent. As a preservative, it’s effective at concentrations of 15% to
20%. It’s a disinfec
tant in
concentrations of 6000 to 70%, with
a bactericidal effect within 45 seconds. It’s also used in acne treatments and in
rinses for oily hair.
Ethanol absorbs water and thus can be very drying to the skin, hair and
scalp. It’s used in
astringents and
in fast-drying skin lotions (at concentrations of 15%); the lotions need to include glycerols
and vegetable oils to reduce the drying effect.
A 50% alcohol solution provokes a delayed allergic reaction in some
people when used topically. Taken orally, ethanol is toxic in doses above SOg.
Ethanol is often deliberately made poisonous by the addition of methanol
and it is then known as SDA (specially denatured alcohol). Its sa]e is regulated by
the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax Department of the federal government. Specially denatured
alcohol is given numbers based on the amount of denaturants used (i.e. SDA 40).
Ethanol is miscible with water, acetone and glyc
erol. glycerol. It’s produced by the
fermentation of sugar or starch or by the hydration of ethylene, which is an acrylate copolymer. (Acrylics are very toxic synthetic
plastic resins.) It’s difficult to know by reading a
label whether an alcohol is natural or synthetic.
ethoxydiglycol
This toxic solvent, used in nail polishes and lacquer thinner, can be a
skin irritant.
ethoxyethanol
This is a synthetic alcohol plus ethoxy, which is a hydrocarbon
and a i~ypro duct of the natural gas indus
try.
It’s used as a solvent. Absorption can cause kidney damage and depress the central
nervous system.
ethyl acetate
This synthetic ester of ethyl alcohol and acetic acid
may irritate the skin and depress the central nervous
system. It’s used as a solvent in many industrial products, and
is found in nail polishes and nail polish removers.
ethyl alcohol
See ethanol.
ethyl paraben
See parabens.
eucalyptol
This thick, syrupy liquid is the chief component of eucalyptus oil;
it’s also found in Levant wormseed and cajeput. Also known as cineole, it’s used
for its anti
septic, flavoring and aromatic qualities. See the herb
chart in Chapter 2.
eugenol
This colorless, aromatic, liquid phenol is found in many essential
oils, especially cinnamon-leaf and clove oils. Ifs used as a flavoring, in perfumes
and as a disinfectant and pain reliever in dentistry.
evening primrose oil
This essential oil, often referred to by
the abbreviation EPO, comes from the yellow evening primrose,
Qenothera biennis (it’s called
the evening primrose because its flowers only open at night).
EPO is available in health food stores as a
liquid, as a cream, in capsules and as an ingredient in cosmetics. It’s been extolled
by herbalists as a treatment for:
· alcoholism
· arthritis
· brittle nails
· diaper rash (evening primrose cream works best)
· eczema (I’ve found it quite effective when EPO is applied first
as an oil, and an evening primrose cream is put on top of that; for infants, just use the
cream)
· hyperactivity in children (according to the Feingold Institute, even
the small amount absorbed by using the cream topically is very helpful)
· multiple sclerosis
· premenstrual syndrome (I’ve been told by many women that it
works)
· psoriasis (I’ve found it helpful in breaking up the large,
crusty lesions)
· schizophrenia
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